GS750 will not idle!!!

[Anonymous]

I just rode the 750 to get it inspected, and I had to keep the revs up to keep it from dying. I got it warmed up by keeping the throttle twisted, and I got on it fine. It just refuses to idle. What the hell is going on?

It is bad enough I got extorted $115 just to transfer the title!

Child protection fee?! What the f___ is that?!

What does that have to do with my 750?!

Any thoughts?

[sagent]

Re: GS750 will not idle!!!

You know you are really lucky. A month ago I had to figure out these exact same problems.

Idle. Look on the front of your carbs there should be a screw with a white plastic heat that you can turn by hand. that is your throttle stop screw. tighten it a little ways until the bike idles. According to clymer it should Idle between 1 and 1.5k Once you have adjusted that play with the air screws (recessed screw located off the side of each carb) until you find the combination that produces the greatest rpm. (factory air screw settings is 1.25 turns out). after that set the throttle stop screw so that the bike once again revs between 1 & 1.5k

also get yourself a clymer or haynes manual they are worth their weight in gold.

Last point. your low mileage is both a blessing and a curse. Old bike with low mileage usually have not been ridden as often as they should have been. Many times (such as in my case) the seals wear out due to lack of use. beware of that, look for excessive oil seepage and listen for piston slap.

[Anonymous]

Re: GS750 will not idle!!!

You know you are really lucky. A month ago I had to figure out these exact same problems.

Idle. Look on the front of your carbs there should be a screw with a white plastic heat that you can turn by hand. that is your throttle stop screw. tighten it a little ways until the bike idles. According to clymer it should Idle between 1 and 1.5k Once you have adjusted that play with the air screws (recessed screw located off the side of each carb) until you find the combination that produces the greatest rpm. (factory air screw settings is 1.25 turns out). after that set the throttle stop screw so that the bike once again revs between 1 & 1.5k

also get yourself a clymer or haynes manual they are worth their weight in gold.

Last point. your low mileage is both a blessing and a curse. Old bike with low mileage usually have not been ridden as often as they should have been. Many times (such as in my case) the seals wear out due to lack of use. beware of that, look for excessive oil seepage and listen for piston slap.

Thanks so very much, but, um...one problem, my tach is dead. I have replaced the cable with a new one, but it is still dead.

Any thoughts?

[sagent]

I haven't solved the tach problem quite yet. It seems that the female receptor on the gauge is stripped (with mine at least). I thought of filling it with JB weld or epoxy but I was advised against it.

does your tach rise at all, mine will barely bump when I rev the living hell out of the engine (will read about 700-1000 rpm with wot). It may or may not be the same problem but from the looks of it there is only one surefire solution, replacement. Check on Ebay for a gauge cluster. Get one from any 1979 and older GS or any L model GS.

[Anonymous]

I haven't solved the tach problem quite yet. It seems that the female receptor on the gauge is stripped (with mine at least). I thought of filling it with JB weld or epoxy but I was advised against it.

does your tach rise at all, mine will barely bump when I rev the living hell out of the engine (will read about 700-1000 rpm with wot). It may or may not be the same problem but from the looks of it there is only one surefire solution, replacement. Check on Ebay for a gauge cluster. Get one from any 1979 and older GS or any L model GS.

Damnit, I can't afford a new gauge cluster. I am a dirt poor college student.

We shall see.

[sagent]

I haven't solved the tach problem quite yet. It seems that the female receptor on the gauge is stripped (with mine at least). I thought of filling it with JB weld or epoxy but I was advised against it.

does your tach rise at all, mine will barely bump when I rev the living hell out of the engine (will read about 700-1000 rpm with wot). It may or may not be the same problem but from the looks of it there is only one surefire solution, replacement. Check on Ebay for a gauge cluster. Get one from any 1979 and older GS or any L model GS.

Damnit, I can't afford a new gauge cluster. I am a dirt poor college student.

We shall see.

believe me I know the feeling. The good thing is that if you know what you are doing you don't really need the tach. You can play it by ear and the 750 has a broad enough powerband so that your performance wont suffer too much. keep the revs in the sane range and you should be alright for casual riding.

[Anonymous]

I haven't solved the tach problem quite yet. It seems that the female receptor on the gauge is stripped (with mine at least). I thought of filling it with JB weld or epoxy but I was advised against it.

does your tach rise at all, mine will barely bump when I rev the living hell out of the engine (will read about 700-1000 rpm with wot). It may or may not be the same problem but from the looks of it there is only one surefire solution, replacement. Check on Ebay for a gauge cluster. Get one from any 1979 and older GS or any L model GS.

Damnit, I can't afford a new gauge cluster. I am a dirt poor college student.

We shall see.

believe me I know the feeling. The good thing is that if you know what you are doing you don't really need the tach. You can play it by ear and the 750 has a broad enough powerband so that your performance wont suffer too much. keep the revs in the sane range and you should be alright for casual riding.

Thanks, but I love seeing the tach needle sweep toward redline along with the sound. Not just the sound.

Today I adjusted the screws on the carbs to 1.25, the "basic setting" as the Clymer manual tells me. I still have not figured out which direction to turn the plastic white screw in the middle of the carbs. So, if I am standing next to the throttle (right handgrip), which direction do I turn the screw? Left or right?

I will let you know how it turns out tomorrow. The bike refuses to even start now. I am charging the battery overnight.

I am insensed.

If money was no object, which it is, of course, I would get a 1200 S Bandit or Z1000 and call it a day. Life is never so great for me. Just when I was getting excited about the big GS.

I am too stubborn to give up hope just yet. The GS will live again, damnit.

[sagent]

sounds like you need to tighten the throttle stop up a bit (Right). The process is a major PITA and involves a goo deal of trail and error. also pull your spark plugs and check them to see if you are rich or lean. A white plug means you are lean a black plug means you are rich. the plug should have a light brown color to it if you are running the right fuel to air mixture.

If the mixture is lean the tighten up the airscrews

if it is rich loosen them up a bit bu not so uch as to cause your bike to flood out. Also look at the color of smoke from the tailpipe that is a good indicator of a rich running condition.

[Anonymous]

sounds like you need to tighten the throttle stop up a bit (Right). The process is a major PITA and involves a goo deal of trail and error. also pull your spark plugs and check them to see if you are rich or lean. A white plug means you are lean a black plug means you are rich. the plug should have a light brown color to it if you are running the right fuel to air mixture.

If the mixture is lean the tighten up the airscrews

if it is rich loosen them up a bit bu not so uch as to cause your bike to flood out. Also look at the color of smoke from the tailpipe that is a good indicator of a rich running condition.

Thanks sagent.

[Anonymous]

I sent the old GS to s pecialist who has been doing Japanese fours for over 30 years now. He we rebuilt the carbs without expense and go through the whole bike with a fine-toothed comb. It seems parts of the bike are still atrophied after nearly 30 years, and nearly 5 of them involved just sitting as of late.

She should be back, ready for inspection this week... I hope.

I want my four cylinder!!! I am tired of riding my 250 Honda!!! It just passed 28,000 and I changed the oil, and she still runs. Amazing, but an engine weak on power.

Come on GS...I need you. lol

[duaneage]

You carbs may be flooding. IF the float needle valves are dirty excess gas will get into the engine and cause stalling at idle, the engine does not need this extra fuel and floods.

Try and remove the fuel line and shoot carb cleaner down the fuel line. open the drains under the carb bowls so the carb cleaner spray can flow through. This may make a mess so run the bike out of gas when you remove the fuel line.

Just don't cause a fire and do it outside. I had the same symptoms this spring on my bike and I could have solved it easier if I did this.

[ptm]

Check on Ebay for a gauge cluster. Get one from any 1979 and older GS or any L model GS.

Damnit, I can't afford a new gauge cluster. I am a dirt poor college student.

Here are a few gauge clusters that might work...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4565982409&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuki-GS750-Instrument-Gauges-GS-750-E_W0QQitemZ4565137592QQcategoryZ35594QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-79-Suzuki-GS-750-GAUGES-SPEEDOMETER-TACHOMETER_W0QQitemZ4555424063QQcategoryZ10066QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem