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    #16
    Don't know about the crank seals yet. As soon as I get in gear and order a throttle cable and install the carbs I will. May have to repair a few wires here and there first. Have the tank all welded back together after blasting it. Pretty clean inside now. Bob

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      #17
      Theirs nothing like the gurgle of the water buffalo.
      Let me know how it goes.

      Roman

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        #18
        Roman,

        I'm in the middle of the carb cleaning job on my 750, too. There's one passage I found to be particularly difficult to get open. It's the one near the front right corner of the float bowl. There is a tiny passage between the opening at the bottom of the float bowl and the cylinder at the edge of the float bowl. Use a tool made from a wire brush bristle, as shown in the carb cleaning series here at the Resources; work it in the 'edge cylinder'. I used the dip can stuff, too (I'm at work now, so I can't tell you the brand, but as others have described, it's a gallon can; I bought it at an Auto Zone). I also use a spray can of carb cleaner with the plastic tube attached. When you can stick the tube in the 'edge cylinder' and see spray shoot out the opening at the bottom of the bowl, you know it's open. Careful, if it's not yet open when you spray, you'll get a strong back spray; you don't want that stuff in your eyes! Gotta' run now; I'll be back in touch later with some more stuff I've learned so far (o-rings, if you don't have full carb kits).

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          #19
          Lynn

          Thank you. I actually sprayed stuff in that hole and it did spray out where it was supposed to. Lucky I guess. I guess my carbs aren’t as bad as some. Information on O-rings would be really handy. Please let me know.
          Also let me know how your rebuild worked.

          Thanks again
          Roman.

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            #20
            Roman,

            I'm still in the middle of my cleaning/rebuild - too much to do on too many fronts, too little time. I haven't had a chance to work on the carbs for about 2 weeks now. Hopefully, this weekend I can squeeze some time in...

            Anyway, as you've probably discovered by now, there are 5 different o-rings used in these carbs. Readily available o-rings are identified by a standardized sizing/numbering system that starts at -001 and goes up to ???. You can find the sizing chart, dimensions, and more than you really want to know about o-rings at www.allorings.com. Most commonly available material for o-rings is buna-n (also known as nitrile). This material is fine for the carb application, fully compatible with gasoline. Viton is OK, too, but viton o-rings seem to cost about 3 times the cost of nitrile rings.

            Although I haven't put any carbs back together yet, I've been measuring, looking for o-rings, sizing the 5 applications in our carbs. This is what I've determined so far:

            "Choke assembly" - Size -011 seems to fit well.

            Jet assembly - Size -009 seems to fit well.

            Float bowl drain plug - Size -008 seems to fit well.

            Pilot screw (the larger one)- Initially a size -006 seemed to fit OK; after getting some -005's, I find they are closer to the correct size, but neither is an exact match for the original (-005 is closer).

            Air screw (the smaller one)- Size -005 looks like it will work here, too, but it also is not an exact match for the original, which is different than the pilot screw application, where a size -005 also seems to fit OK.

            My terminology may be screwed up a bit; I don't have my Clymer in front of me now; I'm working from some scrawled notes and memory (becoming a higher risk situation as time goes by). If you have trouble sorting things out, let me know and I'll try to clarify it.

            Where to get the o-rings? You may have some luck at a well-stocked hardware store. At the website listed above, you'll find a nice kit for only $10.00; if you're a real do-it-yourselfer, this is definitely the way to go. Problem is, it starts at size -006 and goes up from there. I have a friend involved in auto racing who has this kit in his shop, so that's where I was able to get the larger ones. Finding the -005s was tougher, though. Most sellers (websites, industrial supply houses, etc.) sell in lot sizes of 100, 300, etc.
            I eventually found a local supply house from whom I was able to buy a pack of 100 -005s at a reasonable price. I gave some to my friend in exchange for the ones I took from his kit; I'll gladly send you (or anyone else, until I run out) the 8 I think you'll need, plus a spare or 2 if you'd like; just send me $1.00; that'll easily cover the o-rings and postage. Email me if you're interested, and I'll give you my address.

            Let me know how your rebuild goes; at the rate I'm going, you'll probably be done before I am. :?

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              #21
              Wow Lynn, you put a lot of work into this, this is fantastic. All this information helps a bunch. Into my files it goes.
              I will be contacting you for your address.

              I understand the thing about time being a factor. I was able to clean my air box and air filter last night. One step at a time I guess.

              This is Thanksgiving weekend in Canada (Monday). If I could get away from some of my family commitments I'll be able to get some work done on the old beast.

              Thanks again

              Roman

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