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    Need some troubleshooting help (GS850L)

    Again, and like others, I've reached a point where I can't get the bike to start. Actually, I've never had it running consistently since I got it last spring. It's all been trial and error it seems. Here'e the most recent turn of events (1980 GS850L):

    After letting the bike sit through winter, and after spending a few weeks going over the bike stem to stern cleaning and replacing old rubber, bearnigs, seals, etc., I started the bike. It started well, with the choke open, and no throttle applied. This was about two weeks ago (and has proven to be the high water mark over the last year+.)

    Soon after that, I set the bike up to finally sync the carbs, but as I was starting, I noticed gas dripping from the carbs somewhere. I assumed it was from a float set to high, so I shut everything down and prepared to adjust the floats accordingly.

    When I did adjust the floats (to set the fuel level lower), I also noticed that the fuel line going into the carbs was loose and therefore may have been the cause of the leak. But the floats were adjusted, and I assumed that if that was not the cause and did not need adjusting, I could adjust them back.

    Well, when I went to start the bike again, nothing. Only an occasional catch as if the one or two cylinders would briefly and periodically fire. Also, these catches were very few and far between.

    I reasoned that I had gone to far with the float adjustments when they probably didn't need adjusting, and that the engine was being fuel starved. So I set about to adjust the floats back to where they were before.

    After this (2nd) adjustment, the bike seemed to want to catch and tried to run more than the last time, but still would not start and run on it's own, like it had when I noticed the gas dripping. So I figured that I was getting closer and one more adjustment to the float levels would wrap it all up.

    However, after this 3rd adjustment, the bike won't start at all. Nothing. No "catching." No brief firing. Nothing.

    So then I started going through the what's-missing-in-the-equation-here routine. Fire? Gas? Air?

    I assume I'm getting gas since I've had to drain the float bowls all those times I adjusted the floats. Plus the tangs on the floats are almost level with the float itself, thereby leading to what I would assume would be a high fuel level.

    With air, all the boots and hoses and rings are new, supple, and tight. Also, the filter is clean and hasn't changed since it ran before I started all these float adjustments.

    So I wondered if spark was missing. To test this, I pulled #1 plug, put it in it's plug wire, and held it against the head while turning the motor over. Nothing.

    So now I'm wondering if my ignition system is shot. Is that an effective way to test for spark? The book talks about disconnecting the blue and green wires under the left side cover, setting up #2 & #3 spark plugs on the head, connecting mulitmeter probes to the blue and green wires going to the ignitor, and then hitting the ignition switch (starter button I assume). Then when one probe is removed, one plug will spark, and when the other probe is removed, the other plug will spark.

    I guess what I need here is some more direction from some of the grassrooters. Could my coils be bad? Could the ignitor have gone out? Or should I assume that it's something in the carbs still and keep trying to get the right adjustment there? If it is the coils and/or ignitors, are there some tests I could run on them before/instead of taking them to the dealer?

    As a final note, with all this trying to start the bike, I ended up jumping my bike battery to my Toyota pick-up. Did I commit a cardinal sin here and perhaps ruined my battery and other electrical components? (It seemed to work for my friend when starting his bike this spring when he needed a bit more umph to get/keep it turning over.) It worked the first time I started it last week before all this crap started. But maybe the ongoing jumping and turning over has done some unexpected damage.

    Like always, any help is welcome. I feel like it's turning into 2 steps forward and 3 back.

    Best.

    #2
    This is for an '85 700 but you can probably use the same tests for your bike.

    Here's how to check the ignitor. Remove spark plugs 1 & 2 and ground them to the motor so they will fire when they get power. With the ignitor facing you, the plug on the right side of the ignitor is where the signal generator plug fits. The two terminals on the right side of that portion of the ignitor will be pin 1 at the front and pin 2 at the back. The two left pins will be pin 3 in front and pin 4 at the back. Turn the ignition switch on. With a multitester set a the X1 ohm range put the + probe on pin 2 and the - probe on pin 1. Plug number 1 should fire. Next put the + probe on pin 4 and the - probe on pin 3. Plug number 2 should fire. If this happens the ignitor is good and the signal generators are suspect.


    As for testing the pickups, signal generators, measure the resistance between the two wires on each pickup. You should get somewhere around 130-200 ohms. If the resistance is infinity or less than spec they are shot.

    To test the coils put one probe of the multitester on each of the terminals on the primary side of the coil. You should get 3-5 ohms. Check the secondary windings by placing one probe into each of the plug wires coming from one coil. Those would be 2 & 3 from one coil and 1 & 4 for the other. You should get 30-50,000 ohms for stock coils and 15-20,000 for aftermarket.

    Comment


      #3
      Running the CCA's of a car/truck battery through a motorcycle's electrical system is incredibly unwise. I wouldnt advise running that kind of amperage through any motorcycle electrical system...
      2010 Honda VFR1200F
      1983 Suzuki GS750T (sold)
      Being Revisited
      1981 Honda CM400T
      http://www.bikepics.com/members/cloudbreakmd/

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        #4
        It is OK to connect your truck battery to your bike battery (jumpers) You must NOT have the truck running. The bike will only draw the amperage it needs which will be the same as always. It doesnt matter how much is stored in the truck battery.

        Earl
        Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

        I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

        Comment


          #5
          I had a similar problem with "spark" and thought it was a problem with my coil, battery etc. Ran all these tests. It ended up being the spark plugs! If those plugs have been fouled at all, change them. Once they get fouled it doesn't matter how clean you get them, some of them won't fire.

          Not saying for sure that's the problem, but a local mechanic let me on to that reality and it saved me from tearing my hair out. If you've worked on cars a lot it won't make sense but that's how it is in my brief experience with GS bikes. Now I always keep new plugs on hand. Good luck.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the troubleshooting specs, Billy. The advice on jumping is good to know too (though somewhere in my brain I suspected as much). To satisfy curiosity (yeah, that's it--curiosity), what is the risk/potential/real damage of jumping a bike from a running vehicle? And, new plugs are on the order of the day now.

            Thanks again, and as can be expected, I'll keep the site posted.

            Comment


              #7
              If you think the problem is electrical, it may be worth checking the Reg/Rectifier. If you still have the original R/R installed, replace it immediately as it is unlikely to be working properly by now.
              I found mine passed all the electrical tests, but it still caused all sorts of ignition problems ranging from poor starting to almost constant mis-firing. After swapping it for a used Honda R/R, the bike instantly started running perfectly.

              Comment


                #8
                I will second Earl's recommendation on not having the other vehicle running when trying to jump start a motorcycle.

                Then I will tell you WHY.

                I used to think "They are all 12-volt systems, what does it matter?" Then I found out. Since our bikes have a stator and rectifier/regulator charging system, they are a bit more susceptible to outside influences. If you jump the bike with only a battery, it is just like starting your bike normally, it does not matter how big the 12-volt battery is. However, if the donor vehicle is running, it is likely to be putting out about 14+ volts of its own. Your little R/R might be set for about 13.8 volts, so it tries to shunt the 14+ down to 13.8, destroying itself in the process.

                By the way, this also applies if the donor vehicle is another bike, even if it has a stator and R/R system, too. Again, the voltage might be just a bit higher than your bike is set for, and will cause the same damage.
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                Comment


                  #9
                  Jumping from car batteries.

                  I disagree. Remember that the current that a car battery can put out is way higher than your motorcycle battery. I think that is part of the reason why we GS'ers have so many regulator-rectifier and stator troubles. Yes, I've replaced both of mine and since then I religiously refuse to jump it with a car battery. Get the charger out and get the bike battery up to snuff.
                  Steve M.

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