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    Here we go with oil question again

    Read enough oil posts for my eyes to start glazing over. But can't find anything about oil ratings. Went to Kmart to get 10w-40 which the manual suggests but can't find any oil in the store that is SE rated. Lots of other stuff on it though. It is just your run of the mill castrol gtx for $2 per quart.
    This one says API Service SM. It also says "exceeds the engine protection requirements of ILSAC, GF-4, GF-3 and GF-2, for API certified gas engine oils. Then, under the circle thingy it sais API service SM,SL,SJ, and SH. So, can I use this stuff or do I need to spend $5 per quart at the suzuki dealer? thanks.

    #2
    I don't know where you are located, but i get motorcycle specific oil at Canadian Tire for a reasonable price.
    Feel The Pulse!

    1982 GS1100E with Tracy one piece body
    2007 Roadstar Midnight Warrior

    ebay cntgeek

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      #3
      The newer oil standards are just that much better than the old. SL or SM oils will work in place of any of the earlier standards like SE. A new car sold today will specify SL or SM in its owner's manual, but will be fed the new standards (SN, SO, etc.) at the quick-lube as those oils become available. I've used 10W-40 GTX SL grade recently: My next case will probably read SM.

      I continue to use Mobil-1 15W-50 synthetic car oil whenever I can. I substitute a cheaper conventional car oil if I have a very short oil change interval before winter storage - then I put it to bed with a belly full of fresh synthetic stuff.

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        #4
        I used Castrol 20w-50 in my bikes for many years. Never had a problem with it. I started using Mobil1 15w-50 synthetic 3 years ago. The bike runs cooler and seemingly smoother with it. I'm sticking with it. I see no reason to use the high priced specialty motorcycle oils when both of these oils exceed the oil specs required for my bikes.

        Earl
        Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

        I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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          #5
          How will I know what stuff will mess up my clutch? Is there a certain code on the label to avoid?

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            #6
            Walmart... Shell Rotella Oil
            2010 Honda VFR1200F
            1983 Suzuki GS750T (sold)
            Being Revisited
            1981 Honda CM400T
            http://www.bikepics.com/members/cloudbreakmd/

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by earlfor
              I used Castrol 20w-50 in my bikes for many years. Never had a problem with it. I started using Mobil1 15w-50 synthetic 3 years ago. The bike runs cooler and seemingly smoother with it. I'm sticking with it. I see no reason to use the high priced specialty motorcycle oils when both of these oils exceed the oil specs required for my bikes.

              Earl
              I hate to agree with you Earl but i had the exact same results.
              I also use discount auto parts 20-50 when i get cheap--it seems just fine when i change the oil every 1 or 2 K miles

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by ericp
                How will I know what stuff will mess up my clutch? Is there a certain code on the label to avoid?
                If the label is marked "Energy Conserving" you should be concerned. However, I have never seen this marking on any oil heavier than a 30 weight (ie: 10W-30), and the oils I use have a 40 or 50 weight designation on the high end.

                Comment


                  #9
                  i made a great deal last year with a local yamaha dealer for several cases of yamalube 20W40, each with 4 gal containers.

                  the gk runs just fine.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I was changing the Castrol 20w50 every 1500-2000 miles. I change the Mobil 1 about every 2500-3000 miles. The Mobil 1 still looks pretty clean at that milage and on my last internal check of the crank, bearing and sump, there was no sludge buildup or unusual wear patterns. In fact, the inside of the engine looks like new. :-) With the slightly extended time on oil changes, the cost is prettty close to the same as I was spending before.

                    Earl

                    Originally posted by displaced

                    I hate to agree with you Earl but i had the exact same results.
                    I also use discount auto parts 20-50 when i get cheap--it seems just fine when i change the oil every 1 or 2 K miles
                    Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                    I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by earlfor
                      I used Castrol 20w-50 in my bikes for many years. Never had a problem with it. I started using Mobil1 15w-50 synthetic 3 years ago. The bike runs cooler and seemingly smoother with it. I'm sticking with it. I see no reason to use the high priced specialty motorcycle oils when both of these oils exceed the oil specs required for my bikes.

                      Earl
                      I have also switched to mobil 1 15w50 car oil. no problems, and runs great.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by cloudbreakmd
                        Walmart... Shell Rotella Oil
                        Amen. 15W-40. Love it. Just changed my oil the other day. 2300 miles and still fairly clean and the bike was as smoothe as when i put it in. Love this stuff and only $7 for 4 qts at Wally Mart. We had discussions at the GS Rally, and Dana was saying that Rotella ranked really high. Comparable to the synthetics (not full synthetics - the mix).

                        DON'T Use the Energy Conserving oils. From what I've read, that is mostly with the 10W 30 oils. Look for the enerfy conserving star, then avoid it. It'll cause clutch slippage.

                        On another note: When I used Castrol, I had serious clutch slippage at about 800 miles. Haven't gone back and never had it happen again. From everyone I've talked to, no one else had this problem with Castrol.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Another 2cents. I tried a 20W50 and had problems with the clutch sticking. Had to rock it loose after it sat overnight. Seemed to be fine once it warmed up. I decided that since I had the clutch it was probably better to use the spec weight (10W40). Since I'm a beleiver in synethetics I use the Castrol blend for about $2.50 at NAPA. The guy who earlier talked about the "SE" spec was right on. Any oil with a higer spec 9 (i.e. SF, SG, SL, SN) is just as good or better. THERE IS NOT DEFINITIVE SOURCE YOU CAN GO TO FOR THE BEST OIL. Any major brand that meets the Suzuki spec will do you right.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Professional Oil Test


                            This is a very good test of oils, auto vs cycle, the interesting part is near the end of the article, heck of a good test.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Why doesn't anyone use the
                              extended performance 10w-40 Mobil 1? Wouldn't this be the correct wieght to use? I know my gs1000 calls for 10w-40. There is also a 0w-40 and a 5w-40 in regular Mobil 1. Is there a good reason to use 20w-50 wieght?

                              I saw on their web site they now have a Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil and a couple other wieghts also. I would guess they charge premium for these though. Is the 20w-50 you guys are using the motorcycle oil?

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