Aftermarket paint job will never be as good as the factory?

[Doze]

Not to be niggling over terms here, but Imron is a Polyurethane paint not Epoxy or Urethane. Just a clarification so that someone unfamiliar with the different paints won't get confused.
Doze.

[rek]

just bought a great book on the subject a couple weeks ago.

Automotive Paint Handbook by John Pfanstiehl. :arrow:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1557882916/104-3770675-8003905?v=glance

it starts with a history of auto paint (as in before the 1926 use of spray guns) and goes thought the latest HVLP tech. i highly recommend it just to get to know the process and terms even if you are not contemplating a DIY paint job.

one of the things i learned that was relevant to this thread is that the OEM paint is a special mix that you nor the body shop can buy. it is designed to dry very quickly in ovens as hot as 450 degrees F! this is needed by the mfgr for assembly line flow. the paint we buy isn't formulated this way, but is still durable. i had an oem paint start to go away after a few years (6) and then had it painted by an awesome painter and it lasted 12yrs out in the weather 24/7. as others have said quality paint and lots of prep work will pay off.

i plan to paint my GS1000 myself just for the experience, along with my old CJ-7 . my current plan is a 1000s pattern in yellow and white instead of blue or red and white, maybe w/ the 1/4 fairing and a chin spoiler and maybe not. :roll:

thanks.. my 2cents.

[Anonymous]

well...

I had my 1980 GS1100 painted last winter. The guy who did it is a rep for DuPont, who paints in his spare time. (i.e., he gets the paint for free...).

He did the tank and side covers for $250, though I lost a cover and had to get a new one done.

Pics are here http://www.chrisberg.net/cbnet/gs1100L.htm

[Anonymous]

The fact is, no aftermarket paint job can be as good as the original, especially on the gas tank. Auto and motorcycle manufacturers at the time actually baked the metal parts that received clear-coats, like gas tanks, in large moisture-free "ovens" as soon as they were painted, making the paint as tough and permanent as possible. Aftermarket paint jobs don't involve that. For that reason, they will never be as resistant to the effects of time/gasoline, etc. even if they are shinier to begin with.

[Anonymous]

Typo - I meant "no, the aftermarket paint can't be as good as the original."

[duaneage]

Considering the major advances in paint technology over the last 25 years I cannot imagine that the original finish on these bikes is better because they allegedly baked them on in special ovens, which I doubt because of the costs involved. As long as you take the work to someone who knows what they are doing and uses quality products it should look as good as new, save for special effects like metalic finishes . Metalic finishes can be tough to match exactly, but these are GS road bikes, not 66 Shelby roadsters so the collectable price concerns don't apply here.

[gspaul]

Yes! All after market paint job's applied by somebody with the know how,will be better,paint tech has come so much farther than twenty years ago

[Hoomgar]

Your friends are wrong. Actually the opposite is true. It depends though. Like many have said it totally depends on who does the work. I would think that a lot of Joe Shmoe paint shops out there may live up the reputation your friends say they do. However, if you find the right painter he or she will be able to deliver a paint job for you that can well out do any factory paint job in both quality & durability. Just remember the old adage though:

You get what you pay for.

Also most things fall under the three ways rule:

You can have your work done in three ways...
1. Fast
2. Cheap
3. Good

You can pick any two of the three.

[earlfor]

Yeah, assuming skill, cost is proportional to degree of perfection. If a customer expects perfect, there is no way to do it cheap.

Earl

You can have your work done in three ways...
1. Fast
2. Cheap
3. Good

You can pick any two of the three.

[Hoomgar]

Yeah, assuming skill, cost is proportional to degree of perfection. If a customer expects perfect, there is no way to do it cheap.

Earl

You can have your work done in three ways...
1. Fast
2. Cheap
3. Good

You can pick any two of the three.

It's words of wisdom huh Earl? Some older mechanic told me that


So with what you said, no way to do it cheap. Thus, "You get what you pay for" also comes true.

Bottom line is, if you are willing to shell out the bucks and have a good painter. You can have a paint job that far exceeds the quality of a factory one.

[earlfor]

OOOOH YEAH!!!! :-) Find a good painter and tell him/her, "I want it nice, cost is not the primary consideration". When you see what you get, you will be shocked..............in a good way. :-) Good painters love customers that want beautiful work and understand it will cost money. Its great when youre the painter and you can stand back and say to yourself, "ahhhhh, THATS nice!" :-)

Earl

Bottom line is, if you are willing to shell out the bucks and have a good painter. You can have a paint job that far exceeds the quality of a factory one.

[Planecrazy]

The statement that aftermarket paint houses don't bake their paint after applying it is also untrue. Most don't, but if you do your research you can find a place that will "treat" the paint in an oven just like the factories do ... and with more care too!

Bottom line: Aftermarket paint jobs, done properly and carefully, will ALWAYS be better than any factory paint job from twenty five years ago...

Steve 8)

[Billy Ricks]

The only metal painted part on my bike is the tank. All the other panels are plastic. It's very doubtful any of my painted parts got baked. I repainted my bike in about 1990 after the "factory" clear began to peel from the decals underneath. I did as close as I could to the stock scheme using paint instead of decals. It was done in a garage and while not absolutely perfect it looks pretty damn good. I used Dupont paints and even sprayed blue pearl in one of the clear coats over the base white. My paint job has stood up to tons of abuse over the years.

[Hoomgar]

The only metal painted part on my bike is the tank. All the other panels are plastic. It's very doubtful any of my painted parts got baked. I repainted my bike in about 1990 after the "factory" clear began to peel from the decals underneath. I did as close as I could to the stock scheme using paint instead of decals. It was done in a garage and while not absolutely perfect in looks pretty damn good. I used Dupont paints and even sprayed blue pearl in one of the clear coats over the base white. My paint job has stood up to tons of abuse over the years.

Pictures Billy!