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**SqDancerLynn1** · 07-11-2005, 12:49 AM

Remove all of the bolts!!!!!! On the gs usually their are some in the oil filter housing also dont forget the ones on the top of the case

**Anonymous** · 07-11-2005, 11:08 AM

Yes, I always remove ALL of the bolts, but I still almost always have the problem!

-Erik

**mike J** · 07-11-2005, 11:38 AM

I would be POed if I bought a set of cases that had been pried apart with a screwdriver. That usually ruins the gasket surface. Get a dead blow hammer instead. Mike J

**Anonymous** · 07-11-2005, 05:41 PM

Dear Mike J,

I can only hope you weren't so presumptuous as to assume I'd try to steal people's money by sending them ruined engine cases. That would mean I'd be cheating people, wouldn't it? :?

I've never sold an engine case on Ebay for the following reasons: The shipping ends up being too much and it's impossible to find boxes for them. Besides, people rarely want the cases - they want the parts contained within, especially the transmission gears.

However, I'm sick of spending tons and tons of time prying apart the cases. It seems to me it should be easier than that.

**mike J** · 07-11-2005, 06:53 PM

Wasn't implying anything, just that I've seen too many cases ruined because of this. Screwdrivers aren't the correct tool for taking them apart is all I'm saying. Mike J

**Kaptain Ketchup** · 07-11-2005, 07:06 PM

I have a set of 9 or 10 long metric bolts that I use to split cases. There are the steps that I use. Take it for what it is worth.

1. Remove alllll bolts (been there done that...etc.)

2. Find "strategic" bolt holes that can be used to separate case if you were to put a bolt, which is too long, into the hole and hit it with a dead blow mallet. I personally use the ones on the very front of the motor (from underneath) and the ones at the very rear of the motor (from the top). You can use the two in the starter cavity (top) as well as the two between the oil pressure sending unit and the cast clutch housing (top also). Along with various ones on the bottom in the crank area if you like.

3. Install bolts that are TOO LONG into these holes until they bottom-out or pass through the castings. VERY IMPORTANT to use the entire threaded depth if you plan to use the cases in the future. If you only put the bolts in two or three turns then you risk damaging the threads when you hit the bolts. Don?t go so overboard on the bolt length such that they will bend before doing any separating when hit.

4. Rotate the cases as needed to gain access to the installed bolts. Very important here to support the half of the case that the bolts you are hitting are not attached too... You wont get far it you are just tapping on bolts in the supported case half and not separating the cases.

5. I support the cases in the crank ends normally (wooden blocks). As well as the tabs on the rear of the motor.

6. Hit the bolt heads to separate the cases.

7. Work your way around the cases (both sides and all the bolts you inserted) and you should work the cases apart. Flipping the cases periodically to get an even split.

8. The bolts will work as stops to keep the cases together (and not all over the floor) when the cases decide to split. Just remove the bolts and keep them for the next split. I like to spray paint any hardware that I have delegated as "custom tools by Mark" so that I don?t end up using them to build a motor in the future.

I have never hit a screwdriver in to separate the cases. Sends shivers down my spine just thinking about it. The "thin paint scraper" is a popular choice for separating cases. It is soon learned that they don?t like bending forces too much though once a small gap is made.

Hope this helps.

Mark

**Anonymous** · 07-12-2005, 07:17 AM

Thanks, Kaptain Ketchup! That is exactly the kind of suggestion I needed!

-Erik

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Splitting Cases

Splitting Cases

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