• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Front brake pads wore out fast!

  • Thread starter Thread starter IanFrancisco
  • Start date Start date
I

IanFrancisco

Guest
As in 3100 miles to get down to metal to metal and score up my rotor, dadgummit! :x New EBC FA51 "organic" pads which I thought would save wear and tear on the rotor except I didn't think they'd be worn out so fast and didn't catch it in time. It was just the "floating" side (inner). The piston side was only half worn. Now the new EBC FA51 pads I just got say "organic or sintered". I thought organic was organic and sintered was semi-metallic. Don't know how one set of pads could be both but whatever... The rotor isn't completely trashed, though. Could probably be turned but I think I'll skip it and just stick the new pads in. Don't want the rotor to be too thin and warp. Anybody think that's a bad idea? I do have a spare rotor found on fleabay for $20 that is not perfect but pretty good, better than the original even before it got scored up. In another 3000 miles I'll use that rotor. Meanwhile, I'll keep watching for another rotor. Anyone got any clues why a new rotor for this bike is $170 when a new Brembo rotor for my truck is only $70 ??? That was the most expensive available (except for racing/hi perf) and it has three times as much metal as the bike rotor... Go figure.
 
Hello, maybe you should consider rebuilding your calipers as they may be gummed up and don't back out completely thus prematurely wearing out the pads. I bought new pistons and rubber parts for my GS1000 and the brakes work great. I also upgraded to braided stainless lines while I was at it. On my 850 I just took everything apart and cleaned it within an inch of it's life and the brakes were just like new. Sometimes you need an excuse to buy parts and play with your bike. :)
 
It's time to grease up your pins that the caliper slides on. That is causing the inside pad to stay in contact all the time and wear to fast, and kill your gas mileage.
 
Well, in this hot weather in SoCal I'd rather be out riding in the breeze than sweating in the garage with grease up to my elbows. Tinkering with the bike is fun and I want it to run right (and stop!) but it is the means to an end, not the goal itself. I know I should probably drop $8k on an SV or DL650, then I wouldn't even be ABLE to do much except change oil and ride and would depend on the dealer for service to the mystical magical ECU and fuel injection. New bikes are like new cars, you can't even find the spark plugs sometimes! My GS450 was a bargain at $600, and now there's about $1500 wrapped up in it but its given me 3000 miles of fun with more to come, still way cheaper than getting something new, plus this bike is old school like me and I understand it! Before I'm through I'll know every single nut and bolt.

Good point about greasing the caliper again. The bike had sat at least 10 yrs. when I got it and the front brake was dragging so bad the bike almost couldn't be pushed around. I replaced the pads and greased up the caliper, flushed the hydraulics, put in new silicone brake fluid. Took some serious whacking on the piston to get it to go in far enough to get the new pads in. I used a large socket that fit just right and flipped it over so the flat side was down to distribute the impact. The last thing I need is a cracked piston! Everything worked great but then again the inner pad wore out fast so maybe it's still dragging too much. My gas mileage is around 55mpg, can't complain about that. I just don't want to wear out the rotor too fast, that's a 3 or 4 hr. job to drop the front wheel and replace the rotor and service the brakes.

What kind of grease to use on the caliper? Special medicated goo or regular old Molly-be-durned wheel bearing grease?
 
Wheel bearing gresae is fine. I use a Valvoline semi synthetic but its not necessary.
 
I dont use grease, I use hi temp anti seize. On brake pads, ....I've been using Vesrah and get around 40K miles to a set. Not too bad considering I always use the front brake but only sometimes the back brake with the front.

Earl

IanFrancisco said:
What kind of grease to use on the caliper? Special medicated goo or regular old Molly-be-durned wheel bearing grease?
Click to expand...
 
My 850 has 38K It will probably need pads this summer. I think they are the original pads ??
 
Well, my '00 Nissan Frontier has you both beat at 71k on the original tires and brakes. Got new pads and rotors waiting to be installed on that, but the bike's more fun! Got the new pads the bike on last night and regreased the pins which were already greasy and moved freely. I don't quite understand what is supposed to make the caliper retract when the brake lever is released, there's no springs or anything I can see on any fiches. Also when I tried to drive the piston back in, it wouldn't go until I loosened the banjo bolt and let the fluid out. So maybe there is a check valve in the master cylinder that isn't working? The piston seems to bind when it is extended out far enough for worn out pads to contact the rotor. Takes a couple of moderate whacks with a hammer to get it moving. It looks like new, no scoring or discoloration visible when peeling back the rubber. The master cylinder also looks like new, the whole bike only has 11k on it. Anyway, refilling and bleeding was easy, the lever pumped up firm right away with minimal bleeding. Went out for a slow ride, with the Foghat tune echoing in my mind, and after a few moderately hard stops from about 30mph with cool off time in between the brake seems to work great, has the initial bite and power to inspire confidence. While I was at it, I replaced the rear brake lever with a fleabay spare. The previous owner had chopped about 2.5 inches out of the orig. and rewelded it to accomodate his short little feet. He did the same to the shift lever because it hurt his toes. I have been able to get comfortable with both levers but realized after the swap that the extra 2.5 inches gives the rear brake a little more power. But if other people are getting 30k miles out of their pads without using the rear brake at all then something is going on here. I don't have a dual disc front like most of your bikes, but it's just a 400 lb. GS450 being driven by a 185 lb. guy who drives like a grandpa most of the time. Even when I'm trying to carve canyons I go for smoothness, carrying speed thru the corners, and riding at maybe 80% of what I think I can do, so huge acceleration/deceleration rates are not part of my style. I'm just puzzled at getting only 3k out of a set of pads. The only part of the system that I haven't dismantled and inpected is the master cylinder, but like I said it looks new and seems to work well and I adhere to the "if it ain't broke..." rule whenever possible. I will be keeping a closer eye on the pads from now on...

Sorry 'bout the novel. Seems like once I get started I can't shut up! :oops:
 
There is a return orfice in the bottom of the brake reservoir. If that is clogged, then the pressure will not release on the pads when the brake lever is released. You should never have to loosen the banjo bolt to relieve pressure so you can move the piston. You should be able to put the bike on the centerstand, put a block under the bike so the bike is resting on the centerstand and rear wheel. The by hand spin the front tire and apply the front brake and release the front brake lever. You should immediately be able to spin the front tire easily with two fingers. There will normally be a slight amount of drag from the pads, but nothing two fingers cannot overcome easily. My front wheel will spin freely immediately after releasing the front brake lever.

The rear wheel should also spin as freely once the rear brake lever is released.

Earl


IanFrancisco said:
Also when I tried to drive the piston back in, it wouldn't go until I loosened the banjo bolt and let the fluid out. So maybe there is a check valve in the master cylinder that isn't working
?
Click to expand...
 
Just a few years ago I installed some EBC pads on the rear of my Sportster and they worn out in 6 months. I think they were 38 bucks so back on to oem pads and still going strong 5K later. I guess they where the road racing one's that you change after ever race.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top