New owner elbow deep

[Anonymous]

I am sure some of these questions have been previously addressed but here goes.What is the difference beetween the"t" and any other letter on a 81 550?How tight should the front sprocket nut be after installing a new front sprocket?My old nut was only held on by the flat on the washer(it was loose).Should i loctite it and would a quick blast from my air gun be ok?What about a torque spec for rear sprocket?Why does this bike lurch forward when put into gear with clutch pulled in when cold?I just changed oil(valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil 10-40)and was very precise on level.Once warmed up it seems ok but still a little hard to find N and shift.I see a barnett clutch sticker on gas tank, hmmm.Any suggestions?Thanks for your help.

[Anonymous]

I dont know the answers to any of your technical questions but I do know the differences between the letter designations. I was told what they mean in layman's terms by an expert on Suzuki's. The T model is more of a sport model with the flat seat, where as the L model is more of a cruiser bike with the stepped seat and (apparently) longer front forks. I believe if the bike is shaft drive there would be a G designation for it also, but Im not sure if it would be included on the tag located just below the seat. Check the tag on the neck tube, the model code will be (if your head is turned sideways) on the bottom right. 81 year bikes were year code X I believe. Hope this helps you out, and anyone else feel free to correct me if Im wrong.

Gavin

[SqDancerLynn1]

Barnett clutch plates will drag when cold I have a G model so I'm guessing but these should be real close The front sprocket nut 70-75 ft lbs, rear bolts 25-30 ft lbs A dab of Locktite wouldn't hurt

[Anonymous]

ok thanks for info.The sprockets and chain should be in from dennis kirk on thursday.I will let you know how i make out.
mike

[IanFrancisco]

There's three different places to adjust the clutch, one at either end of the cable and the actuator mechanism, which on my GS450 is behind a 2in. circular cover on the engine sprocket cover. These have to be set up just right. Too loose and the clutch won't release fully, causing drag. Too tight and the clutch won't engage fully, causing slip.

Odd that these Barnett clutches drag when cold. Usually it's the opposite. My XL175 clutch will slip until it's warmed up then it's OK. It never drags. Old Honda's used to drag when warm so bad they would creep forward at a red light. If you used the front brake to hold the bike stopped the dragging clutch could even stall the motor.

[Anonymous]

Yeah i found the three adjustments for the clutch.Does anyone know the procedure to adjust?Also one more torque spec question.What is the rear axle nut tightening torque specs?The bike has 13k on it and i was wondering what kind of life expectancy the rear wheel bearings have.They feel good and smooth.Is it normal to take these out and repack or are they sealed?When i pull the clutch in and its cold and in first there is enough drag to drop the idle way down or stall it.

[IanFrancisco]

The cable should be adjusted so there is about 1/2 inch of free play at the lever end. I'm not sure about the actuator but I think it should be adjusted to give max travel of the clutch pushrod without being so tight as to cause clutch slip. That will allow the clutch to disenagage as far as possible. Since someone else said the Barnett clutches drag when cold I would guess that the cable and actuator should be as tight as possible to give you max travel without causing slip so going with 1/2 in. or a little less of free play at the lever will be about the best you can do.

[SqDancerLynn1]

First loosen the cable at the clutch lever, then adj at the case Loosen the lock nut & turn the adjuster in until it lightly seats, back off 1/4-1/2 turn
tighten the lock nut then adjust the cable at the lever

[mcycle-nut]

Odd that these Barnett clutches drag when cold. Usually it's the opposite. My XL175 clutch will slip until it's warmed up then it's OK. It never drags. Old Honda's used to drag when warm so bad they would creep forward at a red light. If you used the front brake to hold the bike stopped the dragging clutch could even stall the motor.

My GT/T creation did exactly that with the Barnett springs. I'm not sure if it has Barnett plates or not. Once I put some stock springs back in, it stiopped being a pain. However, they were old springs, so now the clutch slips when I wail on it. :roll:
My 750 clutch drags when hot too with just Barnett springs in it. No slippage at high rpm as I had with the stockers though. The drag isn't as bad as it was with the GT/T, it's just a little difficult to get into neutral unless you're rolling. :?