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Settting a cam tensioner

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    Settting a cam tensioner

    So I replaced the seals in my cam tensioner according to bwringer's instructions and everything seems fine, except the cam chain seems much noiser than it was. Did I do something wrong or will this eventually tighten on its own? As for the oil leak, I hope...still had some oil drop from underneath, however I am hoping that it was leftover oil from where the bike was leaking previously.

    btw got broke down on the bike as it would not turn over after stopping for gas. Turns out there was a red wire disconnected (very small wire on the right hand side of the bike under neath a rubber covering containing 7 or 8 wires). I assume it was to the regulater because as soon as I reattached it and jumped started, the bike started working fine.

    #2
    Did you increase the tension on the spring?
    The lock screw is backed out 1/4- 1/2 turn?

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      #3
      I also had to increase the tension 1/2 turn more than I had it, to get rid of the rattling noise. The spring just gets a little tired.

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        #4
        Aw poot, now I'm confused. The cam chain tensioner spring is fixed inside the tensioner. What are you turning to increase the tension? The lock nut & screw only lock down the chain tension, & the disc you turn with your fingers just releases the plunger, so the pressure can be released. What am I missing???
        1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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          #5


          Earl gives a pretty good description of cam chain adjuster set up in this thread. You'll also find a link to bwringer's pictorial on rebuilding the unit in here, too.

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            #6
            The disc you turn with your fingers is what holds the tension on the chain. The flimsy little spring just behind it (we're still on the outside of the engine) is what needs an extra 1/2 turn. The lock nut on the other side is just to hold the plunger in during assy., it needs to be backed out 1/4 to 1/2 turn so it won't interfere with the plunger movement.

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              #7
              Originally posted by IanFrancisco
              The disc you turn with your fingers is what holds the tension on the chain. The flimsy little spring just behind it (we're still on the outside of the engine) is what needs an extra 1/2 turn. The lock nut on the other side is just to hold the plunger in during assy., it needs to be backed out 1/4 to 1/2 turn so it won't interfere with the plunger movement.
              Ian, the only time that 'disc' is turned is when the tensioner is off the bike and the plunger is being reset. Turn that 'disc' with the tensioner on the bike and you've just screwed the pooch. The tensioner must be removed from the engine and manually reset as described in the link above or it will not work correctly.

              Also the flimsy spring is not what holds tension on the chain. The coil spring around the plunger on the inside of the tensioner is what does that job.

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                #8
                Exactly what jim says. The flimsy spring, only puts more pressure on the Pushrod inside the tensioner, making more tension on the spring, and tightening the slack faster, so you dont get as much rattling sounds.


                I still get some minor sounds, every so often, but thats expected on these noisy things.

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                  #9
                  That still doesn't sound right. All the little spring loaded disc & small plunger behind it does is to keep the main plunger, that puts the tension on the cam chain, from being able to back off. Also, my thoughts are that if you turn the little disc while the engine is running, it will let the pressure of the cam chain, push the main plunger back it the tensioner, just like you can push the plunger in with your hand if you have it off the bike. But when you let go of the little disc, it will lock the main plunger from backing up again. The pressure of the spring on the main plunger will apply the same pressure to the cam chain as it did before you turned the disc, as the main plunger moves foreward, the little disc & small plunger will keep it from backing off again just like it did before you turned it.
                  1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by rphillips
                    That still doesn't sound right. All the little spring loaded disc & small plunger behind it does is to keep the main plunger, that puts the tension on the cam chain, from being able to back off. Also, my thoughts are that if you turn the little disc while the engine is running, it will let the pressure of the cam chain, push the main plunger back it the tensioner, just like you can push the plunger in with your hand if you have it off the bike. But when you let go of the little disc, it will lock the main plunger from backing up again. The pressure of the spring on the main plunger will apply the same pressure to the cam chain as it did before you turned the disc, as the main plunger moves foreward, the little disc & small plunger will keep it from backing off again just like it did before you turned it.
                    Yeah, too bad it doesn't work that way though.

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