Knurled Knob on Cam Tensioner

[Anonymous]

I've got a GS 1000! I've read every thread on the cam tensioner assy' and how it works but nobody seems to be able to agree on what exactly the big knured knob actually does! Does it help increase tension against the cam chain? Why does touching it mess up the tensioners operation for good without removing the whole assy? Why does it exist? Doesn't the main tensioner spring provide enough tension on the camchain by itself?

[jimcor]

What do you think?

It's your bike, do what you want.

Folks I respect tell me don't turn it because the Suzuki shop manual says do not. I only own an aftermarket book. No mention of fussing with the knob, disc, knurled nut is mentioned.

I do own the genuine Kawasaki Concours Shop Manual, for my other running streetbike. This bike has a somewhat similar adjuster. It is stressed in the Kawasaki book, the adjuster cannot be reset without removing the assembly from the engine...

If you did a search you've read my opinion.

Ride On with a minimum of rattles bro' no matter which way you go!

[HiSPL]

My take on the subject is that it gives you a point of reference to look at. Watch it while revving up your engine in neutral and you should see it turn a little back and forth. If it's not turning, it's not working. That's all I ever use it for....


8)

[Anonymous]

Thanks Jim

Thanks Jim, I trust your opinion, and yes I know it's my bike and I can do with it what I want! What I asked in a honest friendy way is why does touching this knob throw your timing chain tension out of whack?

[rphillips]

It's not a good idea to mess with the knurled knob while the engine is running, turning it counter clockwise will allow the pressure on the cam chain to push the plunger backward thus allow slack in the chain. The possibility is there for the cams to jump time causing the pistons to hit the valves. MAJOR PROBLEM!! The Suzuki GS 1150 manual explains it well, it says, the main plunger & it's spring puts the constant tension on the chain. The knurled knob, external spring, small plunger, and steel ball, behind this spring & knob is refered to as the lock shaft assembly, on the tensioner body. It allows the main plunger to move foreward, but not backward, until the knurled knob is turned counter clockwise.

[jimcor]

Re: Thanks Jim

Thanks Jim, I trust your opinion, and yes I know it's my bike and I can do with it what I want! What I asked in a honest friendy way is why does touching this knob throw your timing chain tension out of whack?

jandiel, Not trying to be unfriendly at all. Sorry, if it came off that way. I see it was a kinda nasty answer. Everybody seems to have an opinion about this part, you are right about that.

It is the automatic function of the cam chain adjuster that gets thrown out of whack when this wheel is turned.

That knob is used in resetting (cocking) the automatic adjuster and as a visual cue , when the assembly is put back in the engine, that the adjuster is working correctly.

There are two guys on the board that have explained to me why you don't mess with the knob once it's installed. I value their opinions. It's based on the Suzuki shop manual. My Concours which has a similar adjuster, and for which I have the factory manual, stresses the adjuster cannot be reset without removing the assembly from the engine.

I suggest you give Earlfor or BillyRicks a PM. They have a much better understanding of the tensioner than me. But these guys and my Concours manual say 'leave your hands off'.

Plus my bike no longer has cam chain rattle after resetting and keeping my hands off the big knurled knob. That's the best reason of all!.

Ride on jandiel!

[Billy Ricks]

rphillips has given the reason in a nutshell. Some people will check the operation with the engine running by slightly turning the knob until they here the chain rattle. The problem is that if you do it wrong you wreck your valve train and possibly hole pistons. And if the tensioner malfunctions during the process then what?

Here's how to service the tensioner.

With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ? turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

Loosen the slotted bolt ? turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that ? turn.

While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the tensioner takes the slack out of the chain. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I didn't read the replies, but the knurled knob advances under light spring pressure and pushes/rotates a steel ball against the angled/bologna cut end of the pushrod. It keeps the rod from backing off and allowing the chain to slack.