Stator and Rectifier Question ?

[mlaalm]

My 84GS1150 has about 9000 miles on it. I recently won a new aftermarket stator on ebay and I am looking for an aftermarket rectifier since these seem to be one of the trouble spots on "our" machines.

Should I go ahead and wait for the origional parts to wear out, or replace my good stator with the new aftermarket one?

I know its kind of a crazy question, but have any of you replaced your factory origional parts just to feel more secure? Will my origional parts give me warnings or just go south all of a sudden? Thanks in advance

- Mike

[Billy Ricks]

As long as the charging system is working right don't bother. If you're not blowing fuses then the stator is most likely fine. When my stator went south I couldn't keep it running for more than a minute or two before the main fuse blew. If the battery charges okay and doesn't require constant topping off with water then the regulator is doing its job. If you want to test the system here's how:

You can check you regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.

Stator Test

The testing procedure for my 700, yours will be the same, involves disconnecting the three stator wires and running the bike at 5,000 rpm. You then place the probe of a multi-tester in each of the three wires. + probe in one terminal and - probe in another. Keep the + probe on the same wire and check the other two with the - probe. Then move the + probe to the next wire and check the other two with the - probe. Again + on the remaining wire. Check each of the wires against each other two this way. I'm not sure what voltage you should look for on an 1100, my 700 calls for 80 volts AC. You should get consistent readings on each attempt. These are the three yellow wires under the gas tank.You want to test the ends of the wires coming out of the starter cover under the carbs.

You can do a continuity check using the same procedure. With the motor off and the tester set to check for continuity check each wire against the other two. You should get a tone if the stator is okay as far as any breaks. You can test for shorts by testing each with one probe on the wire and the other on the frame. If you get a tone or meter reaction.

[mlaalm]

As long as the charging system is working right don't bother. If you're not blowing fuses then the stator is most likely fine. When my stator went south I couldn't keep it running for more than a minute or two before the main fuse blew. If the battery charges okay and doesn't require constant topping off with water then the regulator is doing its job. If you want to test the system here's how:

Thanks for sharing those tips - Mike

[IanFrancisco]

Re: Stator and Rectifier Question ?

Should I go ahead and wait for the origional parts to wear out, or replace my good stator with the new aftermarket one?

I know its kind of a crazy question, but have any of you replaced your factory origional parts just to feel more secure? Will my origional parts give me warnings or just go south all of a sudden? Thanks in advance

- Mike

Since the OE reg/rect does not regulate the third phase of the stator, I would look at replacing the RR first to protect the OE stator from damage due to the poor design of the OE RR. While I was at it I would go thru the harness and clean every connector and run a separate ground wire from the RR neg. directly to the battery neg. This is all easy work that doesn't require pulling the cover off the side of the motor and is good insurance.

Typically what happens with these GS's is that the RR fails first usually due to dirty connections in the harness or grounds that resist current flow too much. Then the stator overheats (nowhere for the power to go) and toasts the insulation = bye bye stator.

Cleaning the harness connections and running the extra ground wire is good maintenance and not difficult work. I would start there.

[mlaalm]

Thanks IanFrancisco, sounds like great advice :P