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12.2 volts is close to a dead battery. 12.5 volts is aprox a 40% charge in the battery and 13.2 is 100%.
You said the good cylinders 2,3 were only getting 10.2 volts to the coils. Minimum acceptable voltage to the coils is about 12 volts. At 10.2 I'm surprised it will run at all on those two cylinders.
The 2,3 coil with readings of 5.5 ohms and 30K ohms is close to being in spec but I tend not to accept close as good enough.
The 1,4 coil with readings of 5.1 and fluctuating between 23k and 50K I would consider faulty.
I would be looking to replace both coils and all four plug caps.
With the excessive voltage drop you have between voltage at the battery terminals and at the Orange/white power wire for the coils, I would replace the wire to get the voltage within specs. You will need a wiring diagram so you can check voltage at various points in the harness to find out where you are losing power. Alternatively, you could bypass the original ignition wiring and rewire with all new wiring.
After this, there is still the possibility the ignitor is dying a slow death and could need to be replaced. A dying ignitor will not change the reading on the coil tests, but faulty coils can mask a good or bad ignitor. There is a discharge test you can do for the ignitor, but you cant do it with faulty coils
and sub spec voltage in the ignition circuit.
My first order of business would be to replace the coils, spark plug caps and fix the ignition wiring so you have the correct operating voltage in the system.
You will need to charge your battery too. Remove it, or disconnect it from the bike and charge at not greater than a 2 amp rate until the voltage reaches a minimum of 13 volts.
Earl
You said the good cylinders 2,3 were only getting 10.2 volts to the coils. Minimum acceptable voltage to the coils is about 12 volts. At 10.2 I'm surprised it will run at all on those two cylinders.
The 2,3 coil with readings of 5.5 ohms and 30K ohms is close to being in spec but I tend not to accept close as good enough.
The 1,4 coil with readings of 5.1 and fluctuating between 23k and 50K I would consider faulty.
I would be looking to replace both coils and all four plug caps.
With the excessive voltage drop you have between voltage at the battery terminals and at the Orange/white power wire for the coils, I would replace the wire to get the voltage within specs. You will need a wiring diagram so you can check voltage at various points in the harness to find out where you are losing power. Alternatively, you could bypass the original ignition wiring and rewire with all new wiring.
After this, there is still the possibility the ignitor is dying a slow death and could need to be replaced. A dying ignitor will not change the reading on the coil tests, but faulty coils can mask a good or bad ignitor. There is a discharge test you can do for the ignitor, but you cant do it with faulty coils
and sub spec voltage in the ignition circuit.
My first order of business would be to replace the coils, spark plug caps and fix the ignition wiring so you have the correct operating voltage in the system.
You will need to charge your battery too. Remove it, or disconnect it from the bike and charge at not greater than a 2 amp rate until the voltage reaches a minimum of 13 volts.
Earl
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