Old aluminum

[Desolation Angel]

Hey, I just bought an NOS magneto cover. Received it today. It is perfect as far as having no dings, nicks, or scratches, but it's not quite as shiney as I was expecting. I don't know, I thought since it was NOS it would be bright aluminum. I guess I thought it was clear-coated or something. Is that not right?

Anyway, how to get it back to bright? Just wipe it with Tarn-X, 409 spray, WD-40, or something special? I'm gonna wait to put it on for a few weeks, so no rush...don't need it to ride right now or anything.

Still, it's a nice part. What's the best thing to do? It's smooth as a baby's bottom.

It looks way shinier in this pic than real life...

[KGB]

Mothers or Meguirs metal polish worked pretty well on the edges of my wheels.
Should really shine that up

[focus frenzy]

cheese makes the best polish!!

[jimcor]

I use Simichrome polish. Usually you can only find it at bike shops. Ridiculously expensive, 2 ounce tube is about $8, but really does a nice job.

Or you could always paint it bl...nevermind.

[Desolation Angel]

I use Simichrome polish. Usually you can only find it at bike shops. Ridiculously expensive, 2 ounce tube is about $8, but really does a nice job.

Or you could always paint it bl...nevermind.

Blasphemer!

[Desolation Angel]

Ok, the Mothers or Meguiars I guess will be at the AutoZone or NAPA. I bet the Simichrome stuff is a Harley shop product?

Anyway, was I wrong about the engine parts being clearcoated? I just assumed they were to keep them shiney. Or does one just have to periodically (ewww, how often?) rub down the engine cases and front lower fork tubes? Oh, please, tell me it's a once a year or so thing. I hate polishing stuff. 8-[

[Desolation Angel]

cheese makes the best polish!!

And as for you, Mr. Useful, I'm gonna have a cheese bouquet delivered to you at your job and have it signed, "Last night was great! Thx, Blaine."

:x :x :P

[steve4mc]

Aluminum polish

You can make your aluminum shine like chrome if you want to expend the time and effort. You need a buffing wheel and some polishing compound and yes, there are different kinds of wheels and different kinds of compounds. You can get both at Lowe's (we have them in OK so I assume you have them in TX) but the people there don't have much polishing expertise. Your local hardware store, if it's well stocked can also help. The polishing compound I've been using is made MIBRO and has a number on it instead of a label. Your aluminum polish is almost always white. Get the softer buffing wheel. I got the one that fits on a grinder arbor. There is also a guy on ebay who sells different setups for polishing. You should be able to find him if you do a search for polishing compound. I did a lot of investigating and experimenting in this area because of the old sportster I bought. All the aluminum was in sad shape.

Does mothers work by itself? It depends on how much oxide has built up on the aluminum and whether it has started to corrode any. For the bike I bought, mothers didn't get me all the way to where I wanted to be. I usually had to polish with the wheel and compound and use mother's when I'm done. I've also heard that you make better headway polishing if you heat it up in your oven for a little bit before you start. Just a little, though, like maybe to 150F (Hurry up with them hotpads, Helen!)

As far as does the Aluminum have a clearcoat, I don't think it typically does. Aluminum forms a thin oxide that is self protecting from moisture but not from road salt and other nasty things. Because it forms its own oxide most companies don't clearcoat it. Maybe there's a chemist out there or a automotive finisher who can straighten me out, but that is my understanding.

[BriTXbike]

I've seen some great success using this websites method. They have some great pictures to show you the end product you can come up with. I plan on doing several parts on my 850 as soon as I clear up some leaks and clean my Carbs

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm

[KEITH KRAUSE]

That case should have the factory clearcoat still on.
You need to remove it first with a quality paint stripper.
I then suggest a good website that explains how to polish and sells very good products.

https://www.eastwood.com

I learned a lot about polishing from them and I use their products too. My cases/fork legs/wheels came out nice.

[Poot]

you can rub until your fingers are numb.....it worked for me!!! (hey , I didnt have a buffer, all right)

use #0000 aluminum scouring pads, and then go with a softer cloth for a nice buff.


poot

[jimcor]

I bet the Simichrome stuff is a Harley shop product?

I've just never seen it for sale retail anywhere but bike shops. Really dunno about the Harley store. You know how they are about genuine Harley stuff. Last tube I bought was from a Honda/Yamaha/Triumph/Moto Guzzi/Royal Enfield/Ducati/Aprillia dealer. (No, I'm being truthfull! The other 3 dealers in town: one sells Zooks, the other sells Kwacks, and the third is the Harley shop.)

[duaneage]

I stripped the clearcoat off with paint stripper, rubbed out the serious scratches with 320 (although you won't have to do that) and used 600 to get that original look, not too shinny but with fine lines in the finish. I like that look instead of the chrome look. I polished with a dremel tool and the creme that came with the dremel polishing kit.

I cleaned the part with lacquer thinner and then used clear engine paint. You must use the lacquer thinner or the silicone in the polish will cause the clear to turn yellow.

Clear engine paint resists gas and oil and 550 degrees, 4 months later my cases look as good as when I put them on.

[marvinsc]

Two good sites for Metal Polishing Compounds are; mscdirect.com and mcmaster.com. They are indistrial supply houses and I Know MSC sells direct to the public. I have never tried to buy from McMaster-Carr.

[duaneage]

Have a look here

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/5896/SatinLook.htm

I followed his advice and my forks look absolutley perfect, they were covered in inspection stickers, salt corrosion and scratches under the clear coat.