replaced the stator tonight

[my98xplorer]

ok guys i have had the charging issue for a while now and decided to replace the stator. Long story short, i charge the battery and all is good, for about 4 days or so. After about 7 or 8 starts, the battery is sluggish and bike wont start. I replaced the stator tonight and have to wait for the gasket stuff to dry before i replace the oil, so i will see how it works in the morning. Wish me luck!!

[focus frenzy]

hopefully you didn't get the new one from Electrosport, (formerly known as electrex)

[jimcor]

hopefully you didn't get the new one from Electrosport, (formerly known as electrex)

I'm missing something...what's the story on electrosport?

[focus frenzy]

hopefully you didn't get the new one from Electrosport, (formerly known as electrex)

I'm missing something...what's the story on electrosport?

they suck (well the stator is doing fine, its their R&R and service that suck)

[my98xplorer]

hopefully you didn't get the new one from Electrosport, (formerly known as electrex)

Actually, i got this one off Ebay from a good running 1100. I only paid $25 for it and the regulator, i figured i couldnt pass it up.

[Wingnut]

I did get a stator for the 750 from Dennis kirk when Elextrics was back ordered. Can't remember the brand (then again I can't remember what I had for breakfast either) but it was not Elextrics. It's been fine for a few months now. This may be an alternative.

[Jethro]

Go with Ricks. Good company to deal with.

[jimcor]

Luckily I don't need either now, and I just picked up a spare OE R/R from the for sale section here.

[my98xplorer]

ok dangit. I replaced the stator and im still only getting 12.2v when i rev it up. I guess i need to check and maybe replace the wires coming from the r/r? Any ideas?

[Anonymous]

I banged my head upside the wall for two weeks before I called the place earl referred me to. Rob (owner - knows as much as earl!) explained how to check the stator with a multimeter in a way that made sense (I was struggling with the stator paper flowchart). Have you checked the stator resistance to ground from all three leads and also continuity between each of the three pairs? I was getting 80 v. ac from each pair so I thought I was ok. I only found out two weeks later that I had zero resistance from two of the leads to ground (bad stator).

[NICK!]

Have you done an AC voltage check? This will tell you if you have the required voltage coming out of the dyno. If this is OK is has to be the regulator rectifier or the wires in between. This is of course assuming you have a good battery. Voltage rise really isn't a good check, I always do and amperage check at the battery, this will really tell you whats going on. If this all fails me I revert to doing it by the numbers.

1. Verify battery condition with a loaded test, if its low charge the battery and repeat test, if voltage is still low replace the battery.

2. Amp test at the battery, is breakeven at a reasonable RPM? Can you see the regulator kick in?

3. Dyno check, is resistance correct? Is there no continuity to ground? Does the Dyno make enough AC voltage at the specified RPM? Another stator check that most don't do is what the old guys call the "Megger" test, the old Suzuki electro tester in the blue steel box had a built in test to pump some amperage through the stator to check wire quality. I never had one of these but lighting a headlight by using the stator as one of the wires will suffice. If the wires in the stator are healthy enough to light a headlight I call it a pass.

4. If the stator passes all of the tests and AC voltage is still low, is the rotor tight on the crank?

5. If the dyno is ok, the battery is ok and the wire harness is ok it has to be the R/R, not much reason to hit it with a ohm meter as you can only check the rectifier, to bench test the regulator requires a rather complex rig that I've never seen.

Hope this helps.

[my98xplorer]

I banged my head upside the wall for two weeks before I called the place earl referred me to. Rob (owner - knows as much as earl!) explained how to check the stator with a multimeter in a way that made sense (I was struggling with the stator paper flowchart). Have you checked the stator resistance to ground from all three leads and also continuity between each of the three pairs? I was getting 80 v. ac from each pair so I thought I was ok. I only found out two weeks later that I had zero resistance from two of the leads to ground (bad stator).

All of my wires seem to be good, no corrosion or anything nasty. I would like to check all of the stuff that was mentioned below, but i just dont know how. Im not very talented when it comes to using a multimeter. If i had an explaination in detail i might could figure it out. I really doubt that the stator is bad. The chances arent too good that i would have the same problem with 2 different stators, especially when i was told that the one i recently bought was good and came from a good running bike.

[NICK!]

First thing to do is a loaded test of the battery. With the bike off put your meter leads (meter on DC volts at the 25 volts scale or an appropriate scale to read about 12 volts) on the battery terminals and read the meter. It should be pretty high, this is a surface charge and really doesn't tell you anything more than your leads are on the correct terminals and that you've selected a proper scale on your meter. A fully charged battery is 2.2 volts per cell for a total of 13.2 volts. Turn on your key which should light your headlight, if you've got one of those systems that only lights the light after the engine fires do whatever you have to to get the light to light and have the engine off. Now read your meter, if its below 11 volts charge the battery. A low battery will give you all kinds of false readings. While your battery is charging switch the meter to ohms on the low scale and zero it, if you have a service manual it will tell you what reading to expect from the stator. Dissconnect all the stator leads and go between two of them with your ohm meter, note the reading. Do this for all possible combinations of the three leads, all the readings should be the same. Switch to the high scale and go from one of the stator leads to ground, there should be no continuity at all from any lead to ground. When you can start the bike again put your meter on AC volts and at the service manual specified RPM take a reading of AC voltage across two of the still disconnected stator leads, do this for al possible combinations of the three leads. If I remember correctly you should have about 80 volts AC at something like 4000 RPM. Do these tests and let us know the results.

[Billy Ricks]

I've always run the tests for stator and r/r as Suzuki recommends. It's different than The Stator Papers and is simple.

You can check you regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.


Stator Test

The testing procedure for my 700, yours will be the same, involves disconnecting the three stator wires and running the bike at 5,000 rpm. You then place the probe of a multi-tester in each of the three wires. + probe in one terminal and - probe in another. Keep the + probe on the same wire and check the other two with the - probe. Then move the + probe to the next wire and check the other two with the - probe. Again + on the remaining wire. Check each of the wires against each other two this way. You should get consistent readings on each attempt. These are the three yellow wires under the gas tank.You want to test the ends of the wires coming out of the starter cover under the carbs. You could also test the stator leads at the r/r plug.

You can do a continuity check using the same procedure. With the motor off and the tester set to check for continuity check each wire against the other two. You should get a tone if the stator is okay as far as any breaks. You can test for shorts by testing each with one probe on the wire and the other on the frame. If you get a tone or meter reaction.

[Giblet]

One other simple thing

OK, if I missed this in the thread please forgive :? . Had the same symptoms you did. My problem ended up being the white/green wire from the stator that for some reason Suzuki deciede to route all the way up to the top of the frame, loop through a connector, change to white/red and then run all the way back down to the R/R. The connection was burnt in two and I ended up replacing the whole connector and rerouting that wire dirctily to the R/R thereby removing about 2 feet of wire from the circuit. I had purchased a new Elektrex stator & R/R (about a wek before Leon at the same shop). Mine seems to be fine now as I am reading well over 13 volts at highway speed & just over 13 at idle . The connector is under the tank just in front of the coils on my GS1100GK. There should be a colr wiring diagram available on the site here somewhere that is very easy to read & helpful to print. I have the one for my bike if it will help.