chain noise

[Guest]

I again have another question for the pros. I have an 1980 GS 550L and was wondering, if the drive chain is clattering during take off speeds especially in 1st and 2nd gear how much life is left and is this deadly or dangerous. I have used up about all of the adjustment room and it seems to be snug enough. Buy the way how does one measure the slack in a chain? Any thoughts on master links in a new chain? Thanks again!

[gspaul]

There is 0 life left in your chain, it WILL break and it will either get spat out the back, or destroy your engine caseings.

[jimcor]

Like so many things on any mechanical contrivance unless you're right there, you're only guessing... soooo.

How many links in your chain, teeth in your sprockets?

Original Equipment on the '80 GS550L was 15/51 teeth, and 110 links.

You can usually expect the chain to be correctly adjusted, 3/4 of an inch deflection at the mid chain run with the bike on the centerstand, at about the halfway indication on the swingarm. 5 to 6 marks.

Kevin, I would recccommend you get a workshop manual. Even the Clymers will take you thru the procedure of measuring the deflection yada, yada that verifies your chain is shot or not. But no adjustment left on the swingarm is a pretty good indicator of a worn out chain.

It will also show you pics and/or diagrams of worn out sprockets.

Also make sure your clutch is properly adjusted.

Check the rubber dampers in your rear hub too, (pull the sprocket off the wheel, no tools required.) They will deteriorate over time, and 25 years is enough time!

Good luck with your 80 L! Mine has brought me more enjoyment than frustration...although sometimes I have to firmly remind myself of this!

[fgh]

Jimcor pretty much said it all. If you don't have a manual for that bike and are going to do more than change the oil, plugs, bulbs and air filter then you really need to get one. I prefer Clymer to Haynes. If your adjustment is almost gone then the chain is almost certainly worn out. Someone possible could have bought one too long or added a link though. If when you rotate the rear wheel when it?s on the center stand and the chain tension changes greatly that?s another good sign the chain and sprockets are shot. I think the limit for my chain is 21 or 14 links in twelve inches. A manual will tell you for sure.

[Jethro]

A snug chain is wayyyyyyy worse than a slack chain.

A chain needs zero, zilch, nada tension to operate properly. The only real reason to keep tension at all on a chain is to make sure it doesn't bounce off a sprocket, or hit the swingarm or casing during deceleration.

I have made the mistake of tightening a chain too much. It will destroy your chain and sprockets within 50 miles, and there is no turning back.

[Anonymous]

A snug chain is wayyyyyyy worse than a slack chain.

That is true, as far as damage to the bike goes, it will DEFINATLY damage the bike if the chain is to tight, but as far as damage to you ....

Throwing a chain because it is worn out can, and more than likely will, cause damage to the bike, and more importantly YOU. The caihn could very possibly put the rear wheel into a skid, and depending on whether or not you are riding straight, or winding it out through a curve, the damege to you could be the price of a funeral. And bike probably ain't in that good of shape anymore either.

[Jethro]

If your chain has been adjusted to the max (and started out in the correct place), it is most likely stretched too much. You say it clanks on take off in 1st and 2nd gear, that is odd, becasue even if your chain was super loose, the top run of chain would be fully tensioned. Regardless, order up some new sprockets and a new chain. Don't put a new chain on the old sprockets. I would not ride it until you put the new chain on.

[airportcop]

chain

If the old sprockets are not worn out why replace them. They do not seem to have any sharp edges or points. Is this noise possibly coming from somewhere else maybe the clutch? I have adjusted it but it still makes this noise.

[gspaul]

Often you cant see the wear on your sprocket's, but it's there and can reduce your chain life.
Put the bike on the center stand, start her up and put it in to 2nd gear.
Then you might have a better chance of finding where the noise is coming from.
Whach your finger's!

[Jethro]

airportcop Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 2:59 am Post subject: chain

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If the old sprockets are not worn out why replace them. They do not seem to have any sharp edges or points. Is this noise possibly coming from somewhere else maybe the clutch? I have adjusted it but it still makes this noise.

I've made this mistake before. A properly maintained chain should last thousands upon thousands of miles. I am of the firm belief that everytime the chain gets replaced, the sprockets as well- without question.

It sounds to me like your chain is stretched. If so, your sprockets are toast, weather or not you can see any wear. If you put a new chain on sprockets that have run a stretched chain, the chain will stretch to the sprockets. I've had this happen to an x ring DID chain in less than 250 miles. I'll try and dig up pics of those sprockets- they looked fine.

[airportcop]

yep

Well, it seems that the noise is indeed coming from the chain. It sure seems to be bouncing around alot especially at the front sprocket or what I can see of that area. How expensive are new sprockets? I would like to keep this as economical as possible. I mostly just ride about 20 miles a day to and from work with occassional short trips of less than 300 miles round trip. Any suggestions? How hard is it to change these items? I have a Clymer's manual. What about master links?

[jimcor]

Sprockets cost about $15 for the front and $35 for the rear, Parts Unlimited items from Dennis Kirk. Parts Unlimited X ring chain will cost about $80 from DK.

The job is not that bad. The only thing that might cause problems is the front sprocket nut might be torqued on pretty tight.

[alan]

I just did this drill on my bike, the never ending restoration job. When I would shift or decelerate it would make a terrible clank and I noticed the paint was wearing off the swing arm. The chain adjustment was at maximum so I got new sprockets and a chain. I had a friend who's bike savvy help out and it wasn't too bad of a chore to do and it did make a big difference. The only thing I probably should have done differently was investigate the seal at the shaft that holds the sprocket. It seems to drip a little bit after it runs.

[Jethro]

How expensive are new sprockets?

I just bought the whole shooting match for less than $150.

How hard is it to change these items?

Consists of removing the front sprocket case cover, and pulling the nut off the front sprocket. Make sure this is done before removing the chain! Then pull the chain off, and the rear wheel. Front sprocket pretty much slips right on, the rear sprocket needs to be taken off the wheel by 10 small bolts (12mm I think). Try and go with the same gear ratios and you will be able to buy a chain of the exact size you need. Otherwise you need to cut the chain, kinda a PITA.

What about master links?

I've used master links for over 30k miles without incidnet. I will continue to use them.

It's worth it, kinda like getting new tires for your car- it's like a new bike when you get a new chain and sprockets. Very smooth and quiet.

[airportcop]

Well, got her all apart. Man was the inside of the front sprocker cover yucky! Found several interesting items in the grease. The end of a battery rubber band, a small washer and several pieces of what looked like half circles of metal. Could this be part of the chain? 8O I will have to order the new sprockets. I found out that the measurement of 21 pins in the Clymers manual may not be useful. :? According to the measurement my chain was still well within tolerance at 12.75". If that is so why is my adjustment maxed out? Thanks for all of your wonderful help. I couldn't make it without this site.