Another Stator!!

[Anonymous]

Oh god another fires or is about too...

Okay, I have a 80 GS 750E with 49,000 on, just installled new RR and Stator in it on 4/02 from Elecrex. Now this one is going out. This makes the 6th unit I have had to install in this bike. From what I read about Elecrex this was supposeably the cure for this bike, thought I had it licked finally.

Guess not. When i intstalled the new units (4/02), a new battery, and new fuse box was included and two HD ground wires too boot. Alll the contections were clean and or replaced to insure good conductivity in the system. Once intstalled ran checks on everytihing, Life was good. Okay, 8/05 bike barely cranks over after a 30 mile ride, make it home and check some stuff, most read outs were good till i did the stator check, AC volts were down to 68 at 5,000 rpm ( AC volts were 78+ when the system was installed new) oh yeah installed a new battery to make the checks, the old battery was cartered. All contections were good, RR checks were good too, though charging at the battery didnt seem good. At idle charge was 13.6, at 2,500 rpm 13.8 and at 5,000 still 13.8 was 14.6 when I had installed the new system 3 years ago. SO, I'm at my wits end with the bike;s system!!! Any ideas, suggestions, or offers for the bike would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,
bill

[SqDancerLynn1]

The important thing with the stator is that their is NO reading to ground & all three phases aprox the same voltage reading. All three stator wires go directly to the reg. The fact that you get 13.6 vdc I would look at the grounds - battery & regulator. Does your third phase go thru the light switch ???

[Anonymous]

The important thing with the stator is that their is NO reading to ground & all three phases aprox the same voltage reading. All three stator wires go directly to the reg. The fact that you get 13.6 vdc I would look at the grounds - battery & regulator. Does your third phase go thru the light switch ???

Checked the stator, no readings to indicate it has grounded, and so far all 3 phases show the same 68 vAC. As far as the grounds are concerned there are 3 grounds now, two from the battery one to the engine case and one to the frame, and one extra from the RR to the frame. and yes I do believe the 3rd phase is the light switch ( and yes it is always on learned that lesson the hard way by running it off at one time.)

[IanFrancisco]

It's a good idea to run a separate ground wire directly from RR neg. to battery neg. to eliminate any resistance by the frame or any flaky grounds. Per the stator papers on this site even a differential of 0.2VDC is too much - between the voltage read at the RR and at the battery. Some guys have also ran their own hot wire from RR pos. to battery pos. to further eliminate resistance. Once you get your charging system working that well then an eye has to be kept on the battery to make sure it does not get boiled dry on long high speed runs. I run the high beam on the freeways during the day to help keep from boiling the battery dry.

[fgh]

Are you sure you have a charge problem. After a thirty mile ride the heat maybe preventing enough current from getting to the starter. If it won't crank when warm but will stay running with the headlight ON after kicking/pushing it then I'd suspect the starter, relay and wiring.

[Anonymous]

Its not the starter

Are you sure you have a charge problem. After a thirty mile ride the heat maybe preventing enough current from getting to the starter. If it won't crank when warm but will stay running with the headlight ON after kicking/pushing it then I'd suspect the starter, relay and wiring.

Starter system is fine, battery wasnt, hence charging sytem. If the charging sytem was as good as my starting system, I would be one F***ing happy rider!!! Thanks for the input.

[Anonymous]

Hmmmm

It's a good idea to run a separate ground wire directly from RR neg. to battery neg. to eliminate any resistance by the frame or any flaky grounds. Per the stator papers on this site even a differential of 0.2VDC is too much - between the voltage read at the RR and at the battery. Some guys have also ran their own hot wire from RR pos. to battery pos. to further eliminate resistance. Once you get your charging system working that well then an eye has to be kept on the battery to make sure it does not get boiled dry on long high speed runs. I run the high beam on the freeways during the day to help keep from boiling the battery dry.

OKay, I'll rewire the RR ground to the battery, nothing to lose thats for sure. But is 68 vAC enough to keep the battery juiced during a ride? One other thing, where can I find a volt meter to install on my bike so i can keep tabs on the battery? None of the car v meters well work all too big or bulkly. A small digital one would be great. I remember when the first honda aspencades came out, the guys were putting v meters on to monitor the systems since the electrics on the bikes were crap.

[earlfor]

Re: Another Stator!!

I suspect your problem has happened due to a deteriorating battery. If the battery dies, it takes the system with it, eventually burning out the stator and R/R.

Your stator tested at 78v AC at installation at 5k rpm and now shows 68v at 5k rpm. 68v is still sufficient to charge the battery. However, 68v also shows something is slowly killing the stator. I'm inclined to believe what originally caused the problem, remained in the system when you installed the new charging components.

The R/R shows 14.6v at 5k rpm when 1st installed. Now it shows 13.8 at 5k rpm. Frequently, when resistance increases, R/R output increases and the hi gate in the R/R gets burned out, resulting in excessively high charging voltage (usually in the 15 to 18 volt range). Yours is declining, so I believe your R/R is probably still OK (best guess anyway)

FYI..maybe you already know this, or maybe not. I'll throw it in anyway. :-)

The stator output is proportional to engine rpm. It is not controlled by load. The system is in balance with the headlight on high beam. Any excess charging current after the battery is fully charged is rectified from the stator AC to 12v DC and shunted to ground through the cooling fins on the R/R. If your R/R is normally too hot to hold onto indefinitely, something is wrong with the system. (its unbalanced, and there will be problems coming)

The first thing I would do is remove the battery and charge it at 2 amps until it reaches a minimum of 13 volts. Let it sit for 8-12 hours and if voltage has falls below 12.8 in that short a time, I would consider the battery as ready for the trash can.

I would connect the 3 yellow stator AC output wires directly to the 3 yellow R/R AC input wires. Forget the connections in the wiring harness. Just cap them off. This will eliminate harness and switching resistance. Connect the red R/R DC positive output to the battery positive terminal. Connect the black R/R DC negative output to the negative battery terminal. You will need no additional grounds because the R/R is grounded directly to the battery negative.

Remove and clean both ends of the main ground wire that runs between the battery negative terminal and the bolt on top of the transmission case.

The above will put everything as it should be.

Now, you still have a balance problem. (your cause in the first place)

I would set my multimeter to the amps setting and connect it between the R/R red DC + output and the + battery terminal. I would check amperage at 5k rpm with a new/freshly charged battery. With the headlight on hi beam at 5k rpm, you should not show more than about 1 1/2 amp. With a fully charged battery, this is the amount that will be being shunted to ground and becoming heat in the R/R. You can add running lights or extra tail lights if you have too much extra charging current. I believe too much excess current may be what killed your battery. The first thing to die is usually the battery. When the problem progresses to the R/R and then the stator, the problem has been there for some time.

Bottom line is you're not using enough electricity. :-)

Earl

Oh god another fires or is about too...

Okay, I have a 80 GS 750E with 49,000 on, just installled new RR and Stator in it on 4/02 from Elecrex. Now this one is going out. This makes the 6th unit I have had to install in this bike. From what I read about Elecrex this was supposeably the cure for this bike, thought I had it licked finally.

Guess not. When i intstalled the new units (4/02), a new battery, and new fuse box was included and two HD ground wires too boot. Alll the contections were clean and or replaced to insure good conductivity in the system. Once intstalled ran checks on everytihing, Life was good. Okay, 8/05 bike barely cranks over after a 30 mile ride, make it home and check some stuff, most read outs were good till i did the stator check, AC volts were down to 68 at 5,000 rpm ( AC volts were 78+ when the system was installed new) oh yeah installed a new battery to make the checks, the old battery was cartered. All contections were good, RR checks were good too, though charging at the battery didnt seem good. At idle charge was 13.6, at 2,500 rpm 13.8 and at 5,000 still 13.8 was 14.6 when I had installed the new system 3 years ago. SO, I'm at my wits end with the bike;s system!!! Any ideas, suggestions, or offers for the bike would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,
bill