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Are there any good places to find a step by step for changing brake fluid? It's black in the 750, and that can't be good.
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Here is a simple way.
Put a clear hose on the bleeder into a container. Open the bleeder screw about 1 flat of the screw. (I say one flat but it could be a little more or less. The point is you want some fluid to come out and still maintain some pressure at the lever or pedal. If the stroke is too easy close the bleeder back down a tad.) Then, while monitoring the fluid level in the resevoir just pump away, refill, pump etc. Once clean looking fluid is coming out depress the brake and hold the lever down while tightening the bleeder. Bleeders do not need to be real tight, just snug. Done. Go to next wheel or caliper. During the process do not let the resevoir run empty!
I use this same method for bleeding the brakes too. Much quicker and more effective than the open, pump, close method. Which really doesn't work on the front anyway.
As a general rule of thumb brake fluid should be changed every 3 or 4 years to rid the system of moisture. -
Great!Comment
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The only thing different I do than this is to take a clean rag and soak up all the old fluid out of the reservoir and then fill it with fresh stuff before I start pumping. This just reduces the time you spend pumping the old fluid out.Put a clear hose on the bleeder into a container. Open the bleeder screw about 1 flat of the screw. (I say one flat but it could be a little more or less. The point is you want some fluid to come out and still maintain some pressure at the lever or pedal. If the stroke is too easy close the bleeder back down a tad.) Then, while monitoring the fluid level in the resevoir just pump away, refill, pump etc. Once clean looking fluid is coming out depress the brake and hold the lever down while tightening the bleeder. Bleeders do not need to be real tight, just snug. Done. Go to next wheel or caliper. During the process do not let the resevoir run empty!
MarkComment
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I've gotten used to using a little hand vacuum pump setup. Quick and easy. Same warning though, don't let the master cylinder go empty.Comment
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What size hose will I need?Comment
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When pumping out the old fluid don't squeeze the handle or push the pedal all the way to stop. According to a reliable source the cylinders could have some accumulation on them that the piston never contacts during normal use. If you push the piston into this area it can cause o-ring and/or piston damage.Comment
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Will do. I can be patient,...I promise!Comment
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Good advice. seems they do things in Connecticut the same way we do it in Louisiana! Also one note. Make sure you use the correct type fluid. Dot 3 or 4 as recommended in your manual.Comment
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Seriously, is asking what size hose I'll need a stupid question? I've never done this before.Comment
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me neither...did it last week for the first time...half hour, pads were replaced and fluid flushed...Originally posted by UncleMike
As far as what size hose? I dunno, I just grabbed one that fit...if you need to buy one, just take the bike down to the local "hose store" (LOL) and see what fits...Comment
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Nope. You want to get a clear vinyl hose (available at Home Depot, etc.) with a 3/16"ID for the bleed nipple. Go look at the bleed nipples on your bike and confirm that they are about 1/4"OD, if not, adjust the hose size to suit. You want clear hose so you can see the bubbles and old fluid coming out and when the new fluid gets through. Bleed for a while after you get new fluid through, just to be sure things are clean and air-free. The hose should be a snug fit on the nipple because you are turning the nipple back and forth and a loose fitting hose will fall off eventually and make a mess. I bleed into a glass jar because brake fluid will eat some plastics and I don't want to clean a mess up because my container dissolved! 8OSeriously, is asking what size hose I'll need a stupid question? I've never done this before.
MarkComment
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Cool. Thanks.Comment
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