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Cool man. Thanks for the extra tips. It's that kind of stuff that can save a man. I don't like working on them...just like riding 'em.
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Working on them is going to grow on you. :-) :-) The difficult part is not usually in fixing something, its in figuring out what it is that needs to be fixed.
heh heh heh
Earl
Originally posted by chesterKomorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.Comment
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You sure got that right. Sooo, the oil that I'll be draining... That's the engine oil, right? I'm currently running mobil 1, which from reading around here sounds like it could be a bad thing. I've had no clutch slippage and I am a firm believer in syn. I have however, started leaking oil, which I think is a common occurance when switching any used motor to syn. Thoughts? I was also thinking of switching the gearbox oil to syn as well. Good/bad? I know this is a pretty basic and stupid question, but hey, I dunno. Gonna go take the side of the engine off now... I think it's the left (while sitting on it).....right?Comment
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I also use Mobil 1. I have no problems with it at all and the engine runs cooler than it does with non syn oil. I would stick with the Mobil 1. I dont have a shaft drive bike, but I see no reason why not to use synthetic in the gearbox. I would.
For removing the side cover screws (if you have phillips) the best thing is to buy a impact driver (the kind you strike with a hammer) Sears carries them as well as most online cycle places. Online, the best people I have found to deal with are
Their service is impeccable and they are wflat out wonderful. :-) I've delt with them for years. I give them 5 stars. :-) They also answer their phone if you need to talk to them. No machine. Ask for Rob, he owns the shop. :-)
Earl
Originally posted by chesterKomorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.Comment
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I should mention, my bike is heavily modified. It has a LOT of extra lights. Is a beefier stator/RR available? Is that needed? Or shouldn't it really matter as there is usually excess current anyways? Could these extra lights (about 10) be putting extra strain on the charging system? I usually run with them off, but it would be nice to have them on more often. Seeing as I'm spending the $$, I'd like to do it right. I hate doing things twice. Also...I may end up putting a radio in... so that would draw more too. Am I starting to go overboard? I think I've had too many beers...maybe one more!Comment
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With all the extra lights, etc., I think the simplest thing would be to install an ampmeter so you will know whether youre using more or less than available charging current.
Earl
Originally posted by chesterKomorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.Comment
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Aint that the truth!!!!!!!!Originally posted by earlfor
PS: the right mobil one does help cooling beter than dino oil, and usualy works fine, but sometimes it does cause leaks.
generaly when it does cause a leak, the seal was not long from leaking anyways.Comment
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synthetic works great in the secondary gear box and final drive, I use a full synthetic boat out drive (for out boards/ stern drives) and I could tell a differance in reduced friction.Originally posted by chesterComment
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What's the right way to get the voltage regulator off? It's mounted under the battery with two philips head screws. I don't have enough room to get at them and am worried I'll end up stripping them. Best I can think is to use a socket wrench with a philip bit. Thoughts?
Getting the stator out wasn't too bad. Used an impact driver and that worked great. This is really awesome having your peoples' help. I am learning a lot. Thanks for all the great feedback/help!!Comment
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When I had to replace the R/R on my old 750, it was mounted on the bottom of the battery box and damn difficult to get to the screws holding the R/R. I found the easiest thing to do was remove the battery and then remove the two screws that held the battery box in place. Then all you gotta do is lift the box out and turn the sucker over in yer grubby lil mitts. :-)
Earl
Originally posted by chesterKomorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.Comment
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Bonus. Thanks, man. Have you ever ordered from bikebandits.com? They are considerably cheaper than other places (for the same part and same brand) but they have no phone number to call. Just email, which makes me worry about what kind of outfit they are.Comment
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Bikebandit rocks!!
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This might be a stupid question, but here she goes: I've determined my stator and RR are bad. I've been checking around to see if I could get the parts locally. Local bike shops want to sell me the flywheel with the stator. Do I need it? Is there a way to test my current flywheel? I feel like they are just trying to suck me dry...Comment
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I've ordered more stuff from them than I should admit over a lot of years. :-) :-) They're cool. Good place to deal with. I give'em, 4 stars. :-)
Earl
Originally posted by chesterKomorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.Comment
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electrical ghosts
I've been reading at this forum rather than start a new post since my electrical problems are pretty similar. I found why my bike was stumbling and stopping (fried yellow wire coming off of the Electrex stator) and after replacing said wire, I ran all the checks. Voltage coming from the stator is correct (65-80), voltage at the battery terminals from the RR is good also (13.5-14.5). I tested as per Earlfor's post. What worries me is I'd like to find out what caused it all so it doesn't appear again when I'm far, far from home. I found one short on a wire from the starter button but that was long after an initial repair and I don't think it was the problem.
One thing I did notice when I check the R/R (Electrex RR9) when it's disconnected is that the resistance between wires is equally around 18-20 when testing in the X1 ? range and I think that's supposed to be between 5-6. Electrics ain't my strong suit, and when I'm using a multitester, I get that look on my face like a dog that's been shown a card trick.
I don't have a diode tester on my older multitester so I might try to find somebody with better knowledge and equip to check out the RR, though like I said the numbers look good at the battery.
I've been running Mobil 1 in the bike for about 20K now. The car kind (10-30), not the specialized Mobil1 for bikes. No problems, no leaks. It's also been run in my car for 250K and the motor is still original and very strong. I swear by it.
Hope you get your electrics sorted out. Mine runs now and I guess I'll keep checking the wiring from time to time inspecting for meltdowns unless somebody's got a great idea or suggestion as to where to look next. A backup RR might be a good smart purchase.
Thanks for the help.
Mushman
82 GS1100EZComment
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