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K&N pod rejetting on a stock 82 gs1100e?

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    K&N pod rejetting on a stock 82 gs1100e?

    i have a mostly stock gs1100e (1982) but im minus an airbox, im gonna go the slightly easier rout and pick up some k&n pods, any suggestions on how far to move my jets and in what direction? oh and how much do jets cost?

    #2
    Hey Spaceman,

    My 82 1100E has a Kerker 4-1 and pods. This is my set up:

    Pilot Jets - 47.5 (stock)
    Mixture screws - 3 turns out
    Needles - 3rd (of 5) grooves. I have a Canadian model with an adjustable needle stock. If you do not you will have to shim the needles approximately 0.040" (really it could be from 0.020"-0.060", but start in the middle)
    Main Jets - 142.5 (I am sure I could step up to 145's with no issues, but I just do not have a set on hand and am loathe to spend more $$$ when it is running really well)

    I live at 3400ft, so if you are lower you may need a touch richer settings, but this should get you started. I have a slight rich stumble on full throttle roll-ons at around 6000rpm in top gear only (it rips through this area too fast for the stumble in the lower gears) and it will easily pull redline in any gear with the stock gearing. The stumble appears to be at the crossover point from the needle to the mains but is a very minor annoyance and does not affect riding at all. It is silky smooth at low revs/low throttle and will accept full throttle from 2500rpm and pulls hard all the way up from there.


    Mark

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      #3
      i have a mostly stock gs1100e (1982) but im minus an airbox, im gonna go the slightly easier rout and pick up some k&n pods,


      Sorry, I know I'm kinda being a d!ckhead, but coming from someone who has had his carbs off over 30 times in an effort to get the jetting right for pods and pipe, I fail to see hoe this is the easier route!

      Maybe I'm just way too anal, but prepare for possible driveability issues. Some don't get these problems, but I have a slight stumble off idle I can't lose.

      Anyway, the closest I have gotten is a stage III DJ kit, 138 mains, needle at 3rd notch from top, 45 pilots, 180 air jets, screws 1/32nd of a turn out. Float heights a tiny lean.

      mark m Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2005 11:30 pm Post subject:

      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      Hey Spaceman,

      My 82 1100E has a Kerker 4-1 and pods. This is my set up:

      Pilot Jets - 47.5 (stock)
      Mark, stock pilots for 81 -83 1100E's are all 45's. Got the book on my knee right now.
      Currently bikeless
      '81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
      '06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."

      I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.

      "Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt

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        #4
        I have an 82 GS1100e with K&N individual filters, a Dynojet kit and a V&H supersport exhaust. I have the DJ needles on the fifth notch from the top and NOW have the DJ132 main jets in. The kit comes with DJ138's and DJ132's main jets for using pod filters. In the spring and fall when it is cool and the air is dense the DJ138's feel pretty good. I put the DJ132's in in the middle of summer and the bike pulls better than with the DJ138's in the 80 deg plus weather. I also increased my pilot jets from the stock #45 to #50's. Now the bike starts on 1/2 choke and warms up to no choke in about 1-2 minutes.

        My throttle is smooth in all gears at all rpms but I too had to take the carbs off more times than I want to remember.
        1982 GS1000S Katana
        1982 GS1100E

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          #5
          Mark, stock pilots for 81 -83 1100E's are all 45's. Got the book on my knee right now.
          Hey Jethro,

          Is that a Canadian spec book? I will have to go look now, but I am pretty sure my manual shows the 47.5 as stock for my model. But I could be wrong, it certainly wouldn't be the first time...

          Sorry, I know I'm kinda being a d!ckhead, but coming from someone who has had his carbs off over 30 times in an effort to get the jetting right for pods and pipe, I fail to see hoe this is the easier route!
          I can't argue with that. Jetting can be a real PITA some days. I had my carbs off 5 times (near as I can tell from my notes) in getting it where it is now. I have to think the fact that I have adjustable OEM needles simplified it somewhat, as many of the problems people have seem related to the Dynojet kits. The Suzuki settings are always going to be very good for the stock motor (that is, no porting, cams or other major mods) given the R&D time they put in.

          Jethro (or anybody else), do you want me to look into getting a set of the adjustable OEM needles for you to try out? I can check with the dealer and get a part # and price if you want...


          Mark

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            #6
            I have a stock airbox if you will pay the shipping. I also have a replacement k&n stock filter for the airbox--$10 if you want that

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              #7
              I will say a prayer for you

              Hope it works out well. You have the right resource here.

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                #8
                For Canada, the '82 and '83 1100 Es had 47.5 pilots, and the '81 had 45s. I just read the factory manual. 8)
                Kevin
                E-Bay: gsmcyclenut
                "Communism doesn't work because people like to own stuff." Frank Zappa

                1978 GS750(x2 "projects"), 1983 GS1100ED (slowly becoming a parts bike), 1982 GS1100EZ,
                Now joined the 21st century, 2013 Yamaha XTZ1200 Super Tenere.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Jethro, I know you have a pilot circuit issue, but the stutter could also be an overlap effect from the jet needle. The needle kicks in earlier than some think.
                  Maybe a 1/2 position change with the DJ jetting spacers will cure the stutter? I know you said it ran well on the needle and you're leary of changing anything, but could there be room for improvement? "Stutter" can be taken both ways, lean or rich. I forget what your tests suggested earlier (I reply to too many people.)
                  If the stutter is like a quick cough or dead spot just as you open the throttle to leave a light, I've found this to be a lean condition that a 1/2 position change can cure. For a 1/2 position richer setting, you would move the e-clip down one position and then place the jetting spacer on top the e-clip.
                  And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                  Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Pod rejetting

                    Jethro, I have to agree with Keith Krause, needle position and mix screws. I had the same stutter problem. Just off idle it would sputter and buck very bad then it would clear up when I accelerated past that point. It would also do it when I was at crusing speed when the throttle was in the same position. Your needles are sitting too low, and the engine is not getting the fuel it needs because there is'nt enough vaccum created at low throttle to raise those needles. I have mine set at groove#5 from the top. Mix screws need to come out more. A little over 1 out, way too lean! Turning the screw out makes it richer. I'm running 3 1/2 turns out. I can honestly say this fixed the problem. This is my jet setup: dj138 mains, 160 stock air screws, 47.5 mikuni pilot jets. Accleleration is smooth with no stutter, and I couldnt believe how much of the exhaust noise on deceleration went away. Jethro, I understand your frustration when people post, saying they got it, I've had my carbs off about 30 times also and asked a load of questions. Adam...

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