Never done it before/advice please

[mrquadriga]

YOU guys are to blame for this. All of you on here saying "just do it yourself..." "it's easy" and all that! Just kidding Here goes, I've changed oil but never the filter. The shop did that almost 3000 miles ago. I would like to learn about changing the filter, I know where it is. My question is, is there a gasket or O-ring that I should be ordering as well? If it has to be bought well then it has to be bought but since I've never taken the oil filter plate off, I don't know if it's just the filter or there are "other" parts needed. There are no leaks to my knowledge. Money is an issue as I'm already in about 100 bucks withperformanceparts. Just wanna do it right the first time. Baby steps, right? Thanks for the help-Pete 80 1100LT

[earlfor]

Re: Never done it before/advice please

On the oil filter cover plate on the front of the engine, inside the lip of the cover, there is a groove for an "O" ring seal. I have been using the same "O" ring seal on my 1150 for 40K miles and it is still fine, so I doubt you will need to buy a fresh one just yet. (unless of course you have more than 40K miles on this oil change :-) ) The 5 small retaining acorn nuts you must remove are on threaded posts and the threads are fairly fragile to being overtightened. They will strip easily if you go gorilla. This is a case where tigher is NOT better or ever preferable. I tighten those acorn nuts with a 1/4" drive ratched and hold the ratchet between two fingers placed 1/2" from the ratchet head. You only want to tighten the nuts enough to compress the rubber "O" ring, not pull the plate through the engine. LMAO :-) :-) I blue loctite the nuts, but some people dont....your choice. There is a smring between the cap and oil filter. It fits in a spot in the cap. It will be obvious when you get it off as to how it should go back. The oil filter pulls straight out with two fingers, the new one pushes in with two fingers.

Uhhhh, be sure to drain the oil, before removing the oil filter cover. The drain plug under the engine is another case of gorilla tight is not needed or preferred, A good snug with a 3/8" ratchet will do just fine. The drain plug is threaded into aluminum, so it WILL strip. I dont put my drain plug in any tighter than I do my spark plugs.

Earl

YOU guys are to blame for this. All of you on here saying "just do it yourself..." "it's easy" and all that! Just kidding Here goes, I've changed oil but never the filter. The shop did that almost 3000 miles ago. I would like to learn about changing the filter, I know where it is. My question is, is there a gasket or O-ring that I should be ordering as well? If it has to be bought well then it has to be bought but since I've never taken the oil filter plate off, I don't know if it's just the filter or there are "other" parts needed. There are no leaks to my knowledge. Money is an issue as I'm already in about 100 bucks withperformanceparts. Just wanna do it right the first time. Baby steps, right? Thanks for the help-Pete 80 1100LT

[cloudbreakmd]

The new filter usually comes with a gasket also. Advance Auto Parts actually stocks them and can pull the part number up for you via computer in the store.
Just remember to sop up any loose oil on the headers or you will the get the stink of burning oil when you fire it up.
After putting the oil in... either pull the ignition wires from the cylinders and crank the motor, or put it in high gear and spin the rear wheel by hand to pre-lube the engine before starting. Now check the oil level again, and top off. After you run it (for maybe a minute), you will need to check the oil again, and top again.

[G man]

It's a piece of cake, but make sure to compare the replacement o-ring very closely with the one you remove. Though it has never happened to me personally, I've heard some stories about o-rings included with filters being smaller in diameter and causing leaks. If the old one is not brittle or flattened I would re-use it.

[beby99]

Oh...and what kind of oil ya going to use Mmmmm

[earlfor]

The crankshaft sits in oil and the topend isnt any more drained of oil when doing an oil change that it is from sitting overnight in the garage. There is no need to spin the engine over with the ignition wires removed or to spin the rear wheel. For filling with oil, I have always put the amount the manual specifies when changing the oil filter. There is no reason to add more than that and overfilling can do harm.

Earl

The new filter usually comes with a gasket also. Advance Auto Parts actually stocks them and can pull the part number up for you via computer in the store.
Just remember to sop up any loose oil on the headers or you will the get the stink of burning oil when you fire it up.
After putting the oil in... either pull the ignition wires from the cylinders and crank the motor, or put it in high gear and spin the rear wheel by hand to pre-lube the engine before starting. Now check the oil level again, and top off. After you run it (for maybe a minute), you will need to check the oil again, and top again.

[cloudbreakmd]

The crankshaft sits in oil and the topend isnt any more drained of oil when doing an oil change that it is from sitting overnight in the garage. There is no need to spin the engine over with the ignition wires removed or to spin the rear wheel. For filling with oil, I have always put the amount the manual specifies when changing the oil filter. There is no reason to add more than that and overfilling can do harm.

Agreed about overfilling... However when you are adding oil, the site glass will apppear full after adding X number of quarts. Once you crank/spin the motor, you will see the level drop. This is ofcourse if you don't know how many quarts to put into the bike in the first place. Unlike screw in filters, we can't prefill the cartriges on these bikes.

[dpep]

My 2 cents. The biggest thing you can do wrong and the most likely is to strip one or more of the three nuts or studs holding on the oil filter cover. For this reason I have decided that I will replace the o-ring every time I replace the filter. The flatter the o-ring is the more you have to tighten down the nuts to keep it from leaking and the better chance you have of stripping a thread. I know it is possible to reuse the same o-ring. I have done it myself many times. But I have also used the same o-ring one too many times and stripped a nut trying to stop the leak.

This is one of those areas where to me the money saved doesn't compare to the grief that can result. Try to buy a filter that includes the o-ring. I keep on hand extra o-rings (also nuts and studs); you can get them from Bike Bandit or your dealer. Once one of those teeny little studs is stripped, your bike is down.

This is one part of our GSs that was not so well designed. It is far too easy to overdo it. I do everything I can to try to keep myself out of trouble.

[cloudbreakmd]

Has anybody ever thought about switching the little bolts to high density stainless steel allen bolts?

[earlfor]

I have never owned any vehicle that I did not find out how much oil to put in the crankcase. I just cant imagine, pouring oil in and spinning the engine, waiting for it to drain and settle then adding a little more, spin the engine again, wait some more, put a litttle more in, wait,......:-) :-) :-) :-) Oh well. :-)

Earl

[quote="cloudbreakmd"]
Agreed about overfilling... However when you are adding oil, the site glass will apppear full after adding X number of quarts. Once you crank/spin the motor, you will see the level drop. This is ofcourse if you don't know how many quarts to put into the bike in the first place.

[Wingnut]

CLEAN!

Be sure to wipe clean the surface that the cap and o-ring go against. This area is always dirty with road sand etc. and any dirt may cause a leak. I use a paint brush or similar to clean the area around the cap prior to removing the oil filter cover. This helps eliminate the chance of getting debris in the filter housing. No big deal even if you do, just be sure to wipe it clean prior to assembly.

[marvinsc]

[quote="cloudbreakmd"]The new filter usually comes with a gasket also. Advance Auto Parts actually stocks them and can pull the part number up for you via computer in the store.

I ordered a filter from Bike Bandit which came without the O-Ring gasket for $3.77. Got a Fram #CH6000 at Advance Auto parts today which came WITH the O-Ring for $3.97. They didn't have a listing for just the gasket (or at least the guy couldn't find it) I think the Fram is the best deal.

[mrquadriga]

Thank you for all the help on this. You see, I have no brother, or friend, or neighbor to go ask about this stuff and with your help, I was able to save money by going to the Auto parts store and pick up a lot of what I needed. I would have never thought to go there. (AUTO PARTS Right?) I still have to get intake boots from the internet but have found them for just under 9 dollars a piece. The local dealer will soon have the chance to match that price if he so wishes. I paid $3.77 for a Fram with gasket and $8.99 for a paper air filter. Thank you so much again. -Pete '80 1100L

[Hoomgar]

Good job Pete! Kudos man
You can do it yourself buddy.

[mrquadriga]

Figured I'd just re-open this thread with an updated question...

The O-ring seal needed to be replaced as it had quite a few nicks and burrs along it. Not a problem as the filter included a new seal. Here's the dilemma, is there a special trick to seat that seal in the groove so it doesn't fall out? I had a heck of a time trying to hold that seal in place while pushing the plate on against the inside spring! Then it would come loose in the groove and I'd have to start all over again ..one time I even dropped it and had to remove it completely and clean it up. Anything help seat that seal? Eventually I enlisted the help of a 5 year old for an extra set of hands but she really doesn't grasp the concept yet and then I ended up making her cry . Thanks for your input.-Pete