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Oil and Intake Leak update

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    #1

    Oil and Intake Leak update

    Well, started the 750 up today after changing the oil and bleeding both front and rear brakes and changing out the handlebars. Thanks to everyone for the brake help.

    She idled nicely for quite a while, but when I shut her down to check the oil level and started her up again, she was idling a bit high. Around 1,800-1,900 rpm's. When I went to take off and rode her for a bit, she would idle anywhere from 2,100 - 2,800 rpms.

    I misted water near the manifold boots and there was no backfiring. What's up?

    Also, here's a really crappy pic of the oil leak, which gets much better after riding for awhile.

    Right below the far left exhaust:

    [img]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TQDrAhMX8oJb9BidPZlD44REEbXEfmVmxkbhkUC3nuIGPIk4Z EtNJC23Wf6r6utS7IJlIaMHOKF*sCthUTUYvRBKWsMIjCXc4rv nl2T*hawaYJHKf2GsSA/Oil%20Leak.jpg[/img]

    What do I do?
    Tags: None
    #2
    You call that an oil leak? I'll show you an oil leak!!!

    Just kidding. Clean the motor as clean as you can, like with q-tips and such- spotless. Then take it for a short spin and check the tach cable drive, cam chain tensioner mount, crankcase breather cover and hose, and valve cover gasket. You'll find where it's leaking, and then we'll help you fix it. Beware that on these air cooled motors there are passages that go right through the block. Your cam chain tensioner (in back) may show leaking through the front. It's weird.
    Currently bikeless
    '81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
    '06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."

    I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.

    "Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt

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      #3
      Will do. Meanwhile, what shall I do about the high idle?

      Comment

        #4
        I've seen two leaks that had a similar result. Look closely at the tach cable.
        I fixed them by replacing the oring on the driving peice, useing teflon tape on the end of the tach cable and blue loc-tite on the knurled peice that ties it together. Of course clean up the area really good.
        Another option is there are oil additives that glow in a black light. You put a few drops in, run the engine and make like a CSI with a Black light. Really makes the leak stand out.

        Comment

          #5
          Back off on your idle screw and try a normal warm up sequence. You may have set the idle cold.

          Comment

            #6
            I'm a jerk, I didn't update my own update.

            I found that the boots from the carb to the airbox are a little hard and have come off the carbs a bit. Not enough to have the water-misting really affect it, but enough to produce a high-idle, I would assume.

            I'm having a hell of a time getting those buggers back on. Time to break out the hairdryer, I guess.

            Or I could cowboy up and buy some new ones,...

            I hate making purchases like that so late in the riding season. I'm much more inclined to fork over the money early in the season.

            Comment

              #7
              My friend's GS450 had the same exact problem. A generous aplication of high-temp silicone solved the problem. This is a cheap solution until you can get new boots - though my friend's been running that way for two seasons now.

              Comment

                #8
                I'm sure I could get 'em back on if I was willing to actually take the airbox apart. I'm just not sure of the procedure on the 750 as I haven't received my manual yet.

                Comment

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