charging issues... stator and r/r ok?

[Roseknight]

doesnt seem to be charging...
continuity checks on the r/r seems to test out
geting @68 volts from the stator check at about 4000 rpm
(didn't have an extra hand to hold the throttle while I held the tester leads)
I think this means it's ok ... but something is amiss and while I am guessing wires or connectors some where anyone with more experence is asked for there input...

Thanks
Mitch

[nabrams]

You've verified the components separately, but not how they work together.
What is you actual DC voltage at the battery terminals with the bike at 5000 RPM? If it's not between 14 and 15 volts, you've got a problem.
Overvoltage will boil your battery fluid out and undervoltage will fail to charge the battery.
I've seen both problems on various bikes. Bad connections are a suspect. Also, massive current draw from a faulty electrical component can rob all your charging juice.

[Roseknight]

about 12.5 across the battery terminals at 5000 rpm.... about the same as at 0

[fgh]

Check to see if any of the stator leads are grounded. Using your multimeter set to the ohms x1 range put one lead on one of the stator wires and the other lead on the battery negative post. The reading should be infinate. The needle should not move. Touch the other two stator leads as well. If any have a reading to ground the stator is toast. I think it was Ericp who had this problem with about the same readings you've got now. LOL

[Roseknight]

will test and report...

[focus frenzy]

you found the flaw with the stator pages, it does not test the regulators ability to regulate, just that the rectifiers don't let power back to the stator.

[Billy Ricks]

You can check you regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.


Stator Test

The testing procedure for my 700, yours will be the same, involves disconnecting the three stator wires and running the bike at 5,000 rpm. You then place the probe of a multi-tester in each of the three wires. +probe in one terminal and - probe in another. Keep the + probe on the same wire and check the other two with the - probe. Then move the + probe to the next wire and check the other two with the - probe. Again + on the remaining wire. Check each of the wires against each other two this way. I'm not sure what voltage you should look for on an 1100, my 700 calls for 80 volts AC. You should get consistent readings on each attempt. These are the three yellow wires under the gas tank.You want to test the ends of the wires coming out of the starter cover under the carbs.

You can do a continuity check using the same procedure. With the motor off and the tester set to check for continuity check each wire against the other two. You should get a tone if the stator is okay as far as any breaks. You can test for shorts by testing each with one probe on the wire and the other on the frame. If you get a tone or meter reaction you have a short.

[duaneage]

Not to offend but diodes have 500-600 ohms of resistance, not 6-7 ohms.

[Roseknight]

well Focus came over this eve.. and we did some testing.. he feels the r/r is dieing.. getting a little juice at idle but it cuts out when the rpms go up
we did check the stator to ground ... no flow so thats all good.. the stator output is all happy.. R/R output not happy (tested close to the R/R to try and eliminate any wireing issues between battery and R/R

we also had a nice chat about GS's and bikes in general..
Big thanks to Focus for his help..
Mitch

[focus frenzy]

well Focus came over this eve.. and we did some testing.. he feels the r/r is dieing.. getting a little juice at idle but it cuts out when the rpms go up
we did check the stator to ground ... no flow so thats all good.. the stator output is all happy.. R/R output not happy (tested close to the R/R to try and eliminate any wireing issues between battery and R/R

we also had a nice chat about GS's and bikes in general..
Big thanks to Focus for his help..
Mitch

dying a slow death, at idle the voltage is pretty good for idle speed, raise the RPM some and the voltage starts to slowly come up but it suddenly drops then slowly starts to rise again.

sorry it wasn't a bad connection, but atleast you now know for sure what the problem is.
it was good to meet you.

[Billy Ricks]

Not to offend but diodes have 500-600 ohms of resistance, not 6-7 ohms.

Those specs are as per the Suzuki manual. Mine meets those specs and charges perfectly. I guess maybe Suzuki lied.