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**Anonymous** · 10-10-2002, 04:13 PM

If you're talikng about the place on the bike that you have to get on your hands and knees to reach, I have a round cover with a small wire bundle coming out. If you have wires in or next to that hole (about 1/2" to 3/4" wide), I would say that you lost the cover to it. If you can't locate one from the scrap yard, from what I can see it seems simple enough to get a flat peice of metal (something sturdy that won't bend easily) and cut to size (about a 3" x 1" oval). Make holes for the mounting screws, get some gasket material from the auto parts store and seal the puppy up.
Now keep in mind that I didn't even know that hole existed until you brought it up! I just wanted to tell you what I have in that spot and that it seems pretty easy to fix.

**Anonymous** · 10-10-2002, 06:58 PM

Is the hole in the sprocket cover or behind it. Is it running horizontally or vertically.
Axel

**eddiev** · 10-11-2002, 12:54 PM

The hole is in line with the front part of the gear shift lever cover. The bike is shaft driven so there is no sprocket cover. The cover with the wires coming out that you refererred to I believe is the oil pressure sending unit. It's forward of that and in a narrow channel of the engine block. The hole runs vertically and you practically have to have your head on the ground to see it. The bike is in the shop now and I was just told it is a vent hole. I know I saw oil seeping out of it so I am worried that there is some kind of internal seal leak that caused oil to be somewhere that it's not supposed to be. A friend of mine is suggesting running with some automatic transmission fluid or seal sweller in the oil for awhile before changing the oil. Any thoughts on that? Thanks for the help.
Eddie V

**Anonymous** · 10-11-2002, 05:55 PM

Sorry but I'm not familar with the shaft drive models and don't have a manual for one. As far as additives that will cause seals to swell. I think anything that would swell seals could only be regarded as a temporary fix and could possibly do long term damage to not only this seal but every other rubber seal in the engine. If it was my bike I would take it apart, find the root of the problem and repair it properly. If it is a bad seal, replace it with a new original suzuki part. You also mentioned your friend thought it could be leaking from a vent. Is it possible someone over filled the driveshaft or transmission?
Axel

**Alan Schlosser** · 10-13-2002, 11:27 AM

I think I know what you're talking about. I have an 82 1100L. It is a 3/8 hole that runs vertical up to where the starter is housed. It is a vent hole. I believe that if oil is coming out of it, someone told me that it is probably the seal at the end of the starter motor.
I do have a jpeg of it as I took a picture of mine. Last year when I put the bike away in the basement, I noticed a teaspoon size drop of oil on the floor that seems to have come from that hole. I cleaned it up and for whatever reason, it hasn't come back. I've ridden the entire year and it hasn't returned. Go figure.
As I don't know how to insert a picture here, email me at schlossr@netacc.net and I'll send it to you.
Al Schlosser

**eddiev** · 10-17-2002, 02:10 PM

OK. All seems to be pointing to the starter O-ring seal. Thanks for all the help, especially Al who sent the pictures.
Now, can anyone advise me on the best way to get the starter out. It seems the manuals say the carbs have to be removed but I'm being told that they may not have to be. I'm sure there are some tricks involved. If I do remove the carbs, do I have to go through adjustments and syncing when I put it back together.
Thanks.
Eddie V

**mcconnell** · 10-17-2002, 02:24 PM

You do not have to pull the carbs to get the starter out. 2 small bolts hold the starter cover on (8mm heads, I think) and 2 - 10mm bolts hold the starter in. They are are on the far end of the starter as you look at the starter from the left side of the bike. You will need an inspection mirror to actually see them, but you can feel them. With a 1/4" drive socket set, they are easily removed and the starter can be gently pried out of the case.

By the way, you do not have to resynch the carbs if you remove them as a bank and do not don't do anything else to them. The removal/installation process is no more invasive than what normal operation of the throttle would be.

**eddiev** · 11-05-2002, 11:26 AM

Hi to all and thanks for all the help. The starter was very easy to get out without removing the carbs. If anyone does this though, be extra careful with the starter 12v supply stud. I cracked the bakelite insulator and it shifted slightly. Thought nothing of it but it turned out the internal wiring from the stud shorted and I wound up taking the starter apart and taping up that wiring. It has been starting fine now but it took a few tries to get it really insulated.
I wasn't positive if the oil leak was gone and unfortunatly it turns out it's not. AFter riding in this morning it is leaking as bad as ever. So I guess I'm back at square one. Thanks for all the help with removing the starter though. I'd never of been able to do it without knowing where those bolts were.
Eddie V

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gs1100gl oil leak.

gs1100gl oil leak.

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