BS34SS refurb questions. 80 GS1000G application

[bobasoozoo]

I am cleaning up my GS1000G carbs and have some questions as I have never worked on these before.

1) What sort of solvent will remove the adhesive used for that slow air needle that's on the top of the carb, right next to the intake boot. I wouldn't think they are meant to come out but the PO has them pretty well mangled and who knows if they are set right. What's a good starting point for setting this needle, assuming I can get the old ones out?

2)On the outside two carbs is there supposed to be a plug for the fuel inlet? Mine were full of mud wasp mud. It doesn't look like there was a seal in there but it's hard to tell and doesn't make sense to leave a path for the fuel to flow out if one were to lay the bike down. What might I use for a plug if there should indeed be something there.

3)The number two butterfly return spring is much looser than the others. Number two has the longer butterfly shaft. The return spring doesn't close the butterfly. The way the linkage is set up, when the rack is together it closes but I'd like to get it right the first time I put this stuff back together.

4)I've been trying to figure out if this bike has the 7600 miles showing ot 107600 miles. The brake pedal and shift lever suggest 7600 and the main needle jet isn't wallowed out to an oval which I would expect wth that any miles. It's still perfectly round. Am I right to expect the thing to be worn enough to see if it had 107k miles?

-bob

[bobasoozoo]

answered '2'
the darn things are not drilled through on the two outside.
more light helps.

[snowbeard]

#1 do you mean the air screw? you should have to remove a metal plug from that, unless it's already been removed (if anyone has messed with it, then it must have been? or they were just trying to get it off and didnt' get thru?

see the carb cleanup pages, lower left on the homepage. it's a real help!

and don't leave the carb body in the chemdip overnight...

[bobasoozoo]

right
that's the air screw for slow speed mix adjust

my carbs appear to have some sort of thread sealer on these screws. PO mangled heads pretty bad. I was able to get two out by wirebrushing all the stuff i could reach and gently rocking screw back and forth while soaked in mix of methanol. acetone, and kerosene. this mix seems to make the thread lock stuff dry and crumbly though so there was a lot of rocking, blowing out with air, adding more brew, repitiion. The other two air screws are so mangled that there is no slot left for a screwdriver blade.. If I had a solvent that would dissolve the sealer I could use an easy out. Without rocking though the sealer just bunches up in the threads and gets tighter so easy out wouldn't work.Otherwise I'm gonna have to buy a tiny mill and put the thing on the bridgeport and try to cut a new slot in the top of the screw while it's in place.. Not impossinle but a real pain in the keister. those extra parts, washer and o-ring were not present with the two i did manage to get out.

we're so close. front brake master comes tomorrof. $5 ebay. It's off something else with same dia bars. carbs are ready to reassemble except for getting those two screws out and clearing the associated passages. I'm working on her saturday and if she runs as good as i'm expecting will get some tires and be riding by sat evening.

-bob

other questions?

[SqDancerLynn1]

The mix screws can be drilled out as a last resort USE A LEFT TWIST DRILL When the drill catches it will unscrew, Then you have to replace it
They are something like $15@

[bobasoozoo]

the screws on mine are cemented in.
the material is very hard and jams the threads.
on the two that had not been so badly mangled as to preclude getting a grip on with the screwdriver, i was able to get them out by turning in a bit and then rocking back and forth carefully for many minutes with alternate wire brush and blowing out with air. The other two are too badly mangled for this treatment. So, I need either something that will dissolve the cement or some way to rock them. The best idea I can come up is cutting a new slot in the screw head with a small mill. It would be much easier if I could disslove the cement. I tried heating as per the locktite 'red' instructions but the stuff did not soften. It looks like plumbers cement from the color and that stuff only gets harder with heat.

I have tried methanol, acetone, kerosene, stoddard solvent (light kero), gasoline, brake fluid, brake cleaner, and none have softened the stuff. Will try some methylethylketone, some carb cleaner(caustic) and if I can find any, some toluene today. Machining the things is such a royal PITA that it's being saved for last resort.

I can see why PO tried to get them out. Every bit of info I've seen on WWW says to remove them. The VM26 portion of the manual has a big, 'do not attempt remoal' flag and t he BS34 portion does not even show them on the exploded diagram. Yes, I should have read and thought, why did the PO bugger these things up so", firdst. Will know better next time.

BTW, he had a 105 main jet, two 115's, and a 120 in there! The 120 was not even the correct thread and just jammed in with some cement!

Also, I see some washer and rubber seal associated with the air screw on other BS carbs but these parts were not present on the two I disassembled. They were also not in the K&L repair kit. If anyone has removed the air screws from their BS34's and can tell me if there was/not a washer and rubber seal, I will appreciate hearing from you.

On the bright side, I got a used front master cylinder of a bandit 1200 on ebay, for $4.99 plus postage, that looks like it will take care of getting the lady stopped, once she's going.


-bob