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advice on crack in lower engine casing needed, please????

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    advice on crack in lower engine casing needed, please????

    Hi all



    I know the pic is kinda huge, but I am still trying to workout how to post pics in these forums,lol.

    As you can see from the pic I've highlited the main problem area, dont worry about area B as that was like that when i got the bike. My main concern is in area A, where the drain plug goes into engine casing. The casing has a small crack where the threads are located on the casing . I managed to find some D-weld chemical metal locally and filled it in ages ago (you can just make out the dark patch of the D-weld in the hilighted area).

    My main question is probably a stupid one(or 3) but here goes, lol : Is it ok to use D-weld on the casing, am I better of getting it repaired by a welder or is it a better idea to replace the casings rather than repair them?

    Any help would be appreciated so i can get back on with restoring the bike.

    #2
    well the picture was huge when i was creating the post 8O

    Comment


      #3
      Since you already got it apart I'd get it welded. You don't want to tear it apart again.
      1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
      1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
      1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
      1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
      01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

      Comment


        #4
        thanks for that.

        Even though I knew that aluminium could be welded I wasn't sure if a motorcycle engine casine could be done. Guess I Can phone about for a price to get it done or speak nicely to a mechanic I know an see if I he'll do it for me.

        Comment


          #5
          thanks for that.

          Even though I knew that aluminium could be welded I wasn't sure if a motorcycle engine casine could be done. Guess I Can phone about for a price to get it done or speak nicely to a mechanic I know an see if I he'll do it for me.

          Comment


            #6
            stupid pc, dont know how i managed to get the reply up twice!! :? :?

            Comment


              #7
              Find yourself a good fabricating shop..You will get the best price.

              Example...auto shop stripped the oil drain plug on the wifes van...They said they would fix it at half price, about 200 bucks(new oil pan + labor).

              I dropped the pan, bought a big nut and new drain plug from the hardware store(about 6 bucks). Went to the local fab shop and had the nut welded to the oil pan(10 bucks). Job done...16 bucks in about 2 hours of my time.
              EULC ON

              Comment


                #8


                This link takes you to a site that sells a product called STS-2000. There are other similar products, the most well known being "Alumaloy," which claim to be able to repair aluminum with a standard torch, and also claim to be able to create repairs in situations where TIG won't work. The STS-2000 claims to be a new second generation version that is even better and, more importantly, MUCH easier to work with.

                There is an online video that shows a number of impressive repair jobs, as well as many testimonials worth reading. The video will NOT work in Firefox, but works fine using Internet Explorer.

                It sounds to me like this might be your best bet.

                Good Luck!
                Steve 8)

                Comment


                  #9
                  crack

                  I think the most important thing when you have a crack is to stress relieve it by drilling a very small hole at the end of the crack to help keep it from growing, i have never used the other stuff, so cannot say, how well it works

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