Step by step on setting float levels?

[pasteurized]

I am pretty sure that my float levels are WAY too high, as I know I set them higher "just to be sure" when I rebuilt the carbs (but had no clue to even measure the heights when I did), plus I am getting around 20 mpg and it seems rich as a pig. Can someone please run me thru how to set the float levels on VM carbs?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Take the tops off the outside carbs, put the carb bank, inverted, in between two paint cans. Place a few folded towels down in case you knock the carbs off the can edges.
Take off bowl gaskets. Clean gasket surfaces. I use verniers to measure/adjust.
To set the floats accurately, your float valve pins/springs must be in good condition and not sagged. Then, make sure the floats are "even". This means to measure each side of each float and GENTLY bend/tweak the float assembly to make both ends of each float measure the same. After this, you can adjust for correct level. You also need to verify the factory setting. I think it's about 24mm but you need to ask other 750 VM equipped owners. You should get a manual too.
To measure: allow the float to rest on the float valve. Holding your measuring tool straight, and with the bottom tip of your tool resting in the channel (not on top the thin ridge that helps the gasket seal), slide the tool over the top of the float. When set correctly, the tool will B-A-R-E-L-Y graze the top of the float.
To adjust the float: bend the tab that contacts the float pin. In the INVERTED position, pushing the tab down will raise the float level and lower the fuel level/lean the mixture. Prying the tab up will lower the float level and raise the fuel level/richen the mixture. Hold the float carefully when adjusting the tab so you don't tweak things. I place my index and middle finger under the tab and push the tab with a small screwdriver. I find that pushing down the tab is easier/more accurate than prying it up. Depending on whether you need to lower or raise each float, you may have to flip the float over to stay with my pushing the tab method. It may take several tries to get it right. The tab shouldn't need to be bent that much.

[pasteurized]

Gotcha. So basically, gasket channel to the top (actually, bottom, but top if turned upside down) of the float.

Thanks Keith.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Gotcha. So basically, gasket channel to the top (actually, bottom, but top if turned upside down) of the float.

Thanks Keith.

Correct. And while you have the carbs off, be sure the carbs are clean.
This just happened the other day. The member was sure the carbs were cleaned until a mechanic re-cleaned everything in front of him and he saw that he missed things. He said he was surprised at how big the pilot jet holes really were when properly cleaned. Don't miss the air jet passages and the needle jet/bleed pipe tiny holes either.
Your poor mileage may be related to something else, but be sure the carbs are perfect before re-installing. I hope you installed all new o-rings with your rebuild (Robert Barr sells kits). I also suggest new manifold o-rings and check the manifolds too. Then a good bench synch followed by a vacuum synch.
To make the most accurate synch, the valve clearances and ignition timing must be spot on too. This is all just basic stuff that will pay off in the long run.
Good clean electrical connections at the battery, coils, plug leads and plug caps will help provide a good blue spark too. Still got points?
Is your bike stock? If modified, what mod's and what jetting do you have now? (main jet, jet needle position, pilot jet, pilot fuel/side air screws adjustments?)

[pasteurized]

Keith, I have employed your help before on some issues so thanks again for that and for helping me out now!

The bike has basically gone thru a complete transformation since I got it a year and a half ago. In the spring I completely rebuilt/dipped/cleaned the carbs, new gaskets, replaced float needles/anything else that needed replaced, new o-rings all around (thanks to RB). Set the timing. The only thing I haven't touched since I got the bike are the valves. I am a little scared, and the closest suzuki dealer is 45 minutes away so I can't drive to get shims.

Anyway, its still got points, new ones (and condensers), electrical is good, rebuilt carbs, new o-rings for the intake boots, vacuum synched using a morgan carbtune, good spark, etc. Ever since I got the bike, regardless of the things I have done, it has always gotten really bad mileage (<25). It has a V&H Megaphone, individual emgo pods, a pingel petcock, etc. Jets are 17.5 pilot, 130 main, needles at the richest setting (I am going to try the floats first, then maybe lean them one notch). I think the main may be a little big too but floats first.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Well, adjust those floats first, since you didn't do them accurately the first time. Many things can cause poor gas mileage. Since you say you've covered everything you can think of that would cause poor mileage, hopefully it's the floats.
Since you're using the stock jet needles, the 17.5 pilot jet choice is probably OK. But you still have to adjust the pilot fuel screws correctly and adjust the side air screws for highest rpm. Poorly adjusted screws (either) will contribute to poor mileage.
In my experience, the stock jet needles give poor results most of the time when running pods/pipe. However, the stock needles have a better chance of working with the Emgo pods that don't flow as well as K&N's. I'm not trying to put down your pods or the stock needles, but they seem to make jetting more difficult. In my experience, your stock jet needles will only work with the e-clip at the bottom (5th position), rich as the needles can be. I just finished helping "Hoomgar" re-jet his '78 1000 that was giving him about 24 mpg at the start of his re-jet. At that point his 1/3 throttle position reads were still lean. I can't be positive, but as soon as he installed a DJ jet kit and we got the jetting right (which was easy), his mileage greatly improved. So this could be worn jet needles. Hard to say though. Your bike should get much better mileage.
I don't think you're too far off on the mains, but I'd guess 125??
Double check the needle jet holes etc, as I said earlier. Very easy to not clean the carbs as well as you think you have.
I assume you have removed the two floatbowl vent lines and the ports are open to breath?
Timing's very important too. Do this spot on after you've set the dwell on those points. Test for correct advance. Plugs should be B8ES and gapped and show a nice bluish spark at all four. Plug caps must be correct resistance with the stock coils.
The valve clearances should be checked/adjusted too. After all this, vacuum synch.
The valves may not need adjusting, but if you don't have a service record they should be checked.
You need a tappet depressor tool to change shims, about $30.
A feeler gauge down to .03mm.
New cover gasket and cam end rubber half moon gaskets.
You won't know what shims you'll need until you check all the valves and record what shims are in each one. You can usually swap some. Most dealers carry some. Some will even swap the ones you bring in for theirs. Shims are tough and used is fine to re-use. Sometimes the shop wants $10 a shim. Just be sure to get Suzuki shims. 29.5mm across.
The bike must be stone cold before the check.
I suggest you do it. I'm sure you can find the correct factory procedure with a search here. If not, I'll describe it later if you're going to do it.
Again, as with the floats, you need to verify the correct clearances your valves should have before starting the job.