Can You Remove the Oil Cooler?

[Macmatic]

I have no camera, and the entire lines are wet, but it looks like its coming from JUST below where you would put your wrench on the upper part of the line (so the upper nut, has a small metal piece that goes to the part that crimps to the line, and its where that small metal piece is).

Tomorrow I'm going to completely clean the outside of the line and drive checking very often to see exactly where its coming from.

Could it be that you've got a loose fitting or the aluminum washer is bad somehow? I think you got the oil line fitting with an aluminum washer between the cooler and the fitting, another washer on top between the fitting and the flats of the hollow bolt that hold it all in place.

Try putting a wrench on it and turning VERY LIGHTLY in the loosening direction. If the bolt is loose from vibration or something it wonty take much to get it free. If it turns on you with almost no effort try to tighten it a little...remember those are some soft threads so don't over do it!

If it isn't loose and the oil is leaking from around one of the aluminum dealing washers take those puppie out and go to your local Mom & Pop hardware store... Oh, they went out of business huh? Well HomeDespot will have to do then. They should have a range of copper washers in the plumbing dept, find one with the same ID and give that a shot.

/\/\ac

[scotty]

I was thinking of the washers also. They are a lot like the washers on spark plugs.

[earlfor]

Home Depot carries the correct size aluminum crush washers. Ask me how I know. :-)

Earl


[quote="Macmatic"]

Well HomeDespot will have to do then. They should have a range of copper washers in the plumbing dept, find one with the same ID and give that a shot.

/\/\ac

[Carter Turk]

I had a similar weep actually it was hole caused by contact with the header. I totally smoked a truck I just past on a straightaway luckily. Back tire covered in oil. The truck ended up pulling over to help.

Anyway, the fittings where the hose crimps to the steel portion of the line can be carefully dremeled or hacksawed off and replaced with fuel injector line I believe or high temp hose.

It may be a bit crude, but I have 2 hose clamps per line (one on each end) and have done trackdays and numerous street miles with no problems.

This was on an 1150 and I'm assuming on the 550 where the banjo bolt attaches is a short steel portion of line, then the crimp and hose.

[scotty]

You cant see the connections here but this home made rig is done with auto trans line, double clamps and I hack sawed off most of the original oil lines that were permanently attached to the cooler with steel line. the cooler came off a 750 Honda or something like that.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/slowpoke59ds/detail?.dir=a8e5&.dnm=75d6.jpg&.src=ph

[Clone]

If you find that the lines still leak after replacing the washers, go to an agricultural hydraulic shop, take the whole cooler plus lines. Explain that you are in a bind and if they could redo your lines that would be great. If your fittings are not a standard size they will cut off the crimps, and reuse your fittings with new crimp collars. Industrial hydraulic suppliers can be a bit stuck-up, I usually deal with ag suppliers for this reason.