Introductory post

[Anonymous]

I'm not begging help (yet). Instead I'm opening by thanking the various contributors I've been reading for the past few days - it's given me the courage to think maybe I've not made a mistake.

I've not ridden a bike in almost 25 years, and that was a three month fiasco. Er, I mean a three month intensive from the school of hard knocks. I learned a lot of things I intend to avoid. As a short list - no riding till I get the MSF, and learn how to do maintenance the right way. (At one time the list included "never again" - you see how well that lasted.) That said, the gas prices had gone and pushed me to do this motorcycle riding again. The plan had been to get the MSF (next month) then get a bike. But I ran across this deal...

On Saturday I become the proud possessor of a 1981 GS850G. (Don't think it's an L, but I may learn the hard way.) Previous owner has had it for about six months from someone who had it in storage for several years. He's done some things (or so he says), but it's not running right and he's tired of messing with it. Given the price he asked, I felt that even if I wind up giving up and parting it out I'll make a profit. And besides, this gives me reason to learn that maintenance lesson I mentioned earlier.

I expect - no, I -KNOW- I'll be asking help at some point, but I've already picked up a whole bunch of recommendations that are first on the list. Like checking the battery, and probably just replacing the rectifier/regulator. (He says the engine "turns over, but won't keep running". I'll know what that means Saturday.) He's put on new carborators, new headlight, a few other odds and ends.

I'm pretty sure I'll be replacing the oil - not just in the engine but in the forks and a few other places. I know the tires are getting replaced - they've no tread and are at least five years old - but at this point I'm figuring that'll be a task I get someone else to do (and pay for the privilege) AFTER I know the thing runs. At a guess, I'll be replacing between a third and all the various rubber parts - boots, o-rings, gaskets, that sort of thing. Hmmm, spark plugs will be checked and if doubtful at all are getting replaced. All the above will be prioritized on "make it run" followed by "make it run better" followed by "make it riding safe" followed "make it riding fun" by "oooooohhhhh, preeetttyyy...."

As I said, that's all anticipation. I'll post occasional updates - giving a bit to match the taking of all the help. And hopefully in a month or so I'll be a proud GS owner.

Oh - there were actually two reasons for my jumping on this. The price was already mentioned. When I mentioned it to some other folk they said that if the bike ran at all it was a great one - maybe a bit heavy for a beginner, but definitely a keeper. Hopefully I'll prove that true.

[scotty]

New carbs are not ods and endd. do you actually mean NEW CARBS???
Not running right and carbs go well together.

[Anonymous]

Scotty, I really and truly do not know. I had an acquaintance check out the bike for the aforementioned "parts option", and from this know the carbs appeared "significantly newer than the rest of the bike". But really and truly _new_? I expect to do some detective work - serial numbers, that sort of thing - to learn for certain. Saturday.

Kirk

[mark]

Hey, 850's are the best (I say that of course without bias). Good luck with your project.

[kalessin]

Hello and welcome!

Check the bike over carefully. If you're buying a 20-plus-years-old bike, you're going to need to get intimate with maintaining it, so learning what to look for when purchasing is key.

Here's a decent guide to what to look for (though not all sections are relevant to non-sportbikes) that a friend of mine wrote:

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html

The differences between a GS850G and GL:

GL has: smaller more rounded gas tank, pullback handlebars, chrome fenders, stepped seat

G has: larger (by a gallon or so) squarer gas tank, straighter handlebar, flatter seat, plastic bodywork instead of the chrome rear fender

Check out the pictures in the gallery section of the main GSResources site.

Best of luck!!

[scotty]

Scotty, I really and truly do not know. I had an acquaintance check out the bike for the aforementioned "parts option", and from this know the carbs appeared "significantly newer than the rest of the bike". But really and truly _new_? I expect to do some detective work - serial numbers, that sort of thing - to learn for certain. Saturday.

Kirk

well tell good folks about your symptoms more specifically and Hoomgar is quite experienced with carb tuning. Usually carbs have driven most of us nuts at one time or another. 8O

[Anonymous]

Hello and welcome!
...

Thanks. I'd looked at the site before and had already planned to use that, but I've already bought my pig in a poke.

A few additional details have come to my attention before the bike gets here. I'll share in case anyone has comments or suggestions.

First, those carbs Scotty noted. They're not true new, the PO bought used. They're mikuni carbs.

The PO has the owner's manual - hooray. He also has a few "other parts" that may be useful.

He bought it from the original owner approximately six months ago. Original owner had quit riding an estimated five-six years ago and put it in his storage barn. Bike has about 45,650 miles on it.

Motor "turns over slowly when the starter is pressed". PO has replaced starter and battery in addition to the carbs.

The bike is not a GL, it's "just" a G.

The fuel tank was rusted. PO had it professionally cleaned and lined, and is bringing receipt so I can have warranty work if it's not done right. (Yep, the people allegedly provided a warranty on the work. It'll just be a matter of me hauling it a hundred miles or so to talk to them.)

I figure my first thing to do is make sure I've picked up the manuals I've ordered. After that it's a walkaround looking for obvious problems, and then the real first thing.

First thing is getting the engine running in some way or fashion. I'll start by checking spark plugs, and follow (whether I replace them or not) with using my trusty multimeter while referring to the wiring diagram and the excellent guide elsewhere on this site. The second thing will be to check the oil and to make sure gas is flowing (which probably means I need to replace the fuel hose and maybe even make sure it's got an inline filter). At that point it's branch time. If it's running (even if it's rough and only for a little bit before it stalls) then I've a fixer. If it's not running, well, then it depends on what I've found and how mule-headed I become.

I'll keep folk informed, of course.

Kirk

[scotty]

Engine turns slowly. If batt is fully cgarged then check batt connections and hot to start solenoid. also check batt ground wire to engine case. dont get lazy. disconnect and clean all. charge batt overnight. and if you are ambitious. remove headlight bulb when you are first attempting to start the bike so more current will be available to starter and agan remove and clean connections everywhere. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN
if you dont you will be sorry. old or new batt?? voltages before and after the overnight charge.

dont check--change the oil and filter.

[Anonymous]

Re: Introductory post

All the above will be prioritized on "make it run" followed by "make it run better" followed by "make it riding safe" followed "make it riding fun" by "oooooohhhhh, preeetttyyy...."

I thought the same thing when I got my bike two years ago with no prior mechanic or bike experience. I did the MSF and made the bike safe. It ran fine, but now I am in between the processes of "Make it run better" and "ooooohhhhhh pretty"

You can do it man, and from what I've read here you got one heck of a great bike. I've heard nothing but good things about the 850's. Welcome to the GSR and good luck.

[marvinsc]

Welcome to the Forum. I Have the Same Bike, 1980 GS850G and I like it a lot. Just a little advice from my experience, Check the Air Filter! When I got around to checking mine after a few months I found that it might have been in there since 1980! 8O It disentigrated when I removed it and I got an OEM Replacement from Bike Bandit (Good folks to deal with) If you can Bring Her all the way Back, you will be glad you did! 8)

[Anonymous]

Re: Introductory post

It dawns on me I'm doing poor planning and use of resources - the order of repair is wrong.

First is getting it running, yep, no problem.
At that point I've an opportunity to seize - probably, of course. Again, I'm not licensed yet, and am specifically waiting till the MSF (Which doubles as a license qualification course here). That's scheduled for the 14, 15, and 16 of next month.

Now what I suddenly realized is that this is a bit less than a month while the vehicle basically sits. And I also remembered that it takes a week for a decent cure of auto paint - a month is typical for "complete" curing. *sound of hand slapping forehead* duh.

This isn't to say I won't be checking for things like fluids and rubber parts and synching carbs and that sort of thing. But when you HAVE to leave it alone, it's just so darn wrong to waste the opportunity.

So it's quite possibly a coin toss as to whether I spend more time asking about mechanical or painting advice for the first month or so.

Oh - yes, if I can manage it I'll log the newbie working with some pictures. For both the giggles and the pride (I hope).

Kirk

[Anonymous]

Get the thing working, you can paint in the winter.

[Anonymous]

Get the thing working, you can paint in the winter.

Vox Teardrop - sure, I want it working first. But I've got a month before I can ride it legally - see the opening post about that. So if it's running allright (not great), and I can't really check for the rest of it, why not take advantage of the downtime?

[Anonymous]

it's here

OK, I now have a nonfunctional GS850G sitting in my driveway and a box of parts. Some of what I was told was wrong. Some things I wasn't told are good things.

First, the battery is getting replaced before I do anything. I don't use them if they're bulging and discolored - seen the bad side of that. It's already gone, and I've purchased a new one. However, I purchased a non-maintenance-free battery for the bike, and the shop will do the prep steps for me. (Add acid, let sit for 24 hours, add distilled water to restore fluid level from absorption, charge, test.)

While that's happening, I need to find and purchase a petcock for the fuel tank. And maybe a new tank, or else I have to clean the fuel tank of that rust. Yes, I'd understood it'd been cleaned. I was mistaken - it helps to talk to the PO instead of someone speaking for the PO. mutter. Fortunately I've cleaned fuel tanks before. Add two or three cups of SMALL nuts and bolts, seal the holes, and shake/turn/tumble for a few hours. Empty, shake and empty again, use a mechanic's magnet to retrieve more. Then coat - I like to use the one-two of POR's Metal Ready followed by their Tank Sealer, myself - because it's practically guaranteed I'll not get _all_ the rust.

I will be getting new spark caps and wires, too. Two of the boots are cracked, and the wires are all a bit stiff. The brake cables are in good condition, but they're not braided steel and that's a personal biggie for me. Other than checking and cleaning connections (and checking for obviously broken wires) the electrical system will have to wait a bit.

Actually, besides the fuel tank my first thing tomorrow will be cleaning it. There seems to be surprisingly little rust (mostly surface), and a good wash followed by some brushing may take care of that. Oh, and an air filter.

And the other possibly good thing is in the box of odds and ends that came as well. There are three complete sets of carbs in the box. Yes, that's in addition to the set on the bike itself. They look clean. All are missing a screw or two. None appear to be missing floats or valves or springs or anything like that.

One last thing is that with the PO said he'd rigged a temporary gas tank while working on it himself, and that the bike had actually started. He said it ran sluggishly (barely turning over) but it ran. That is extremely encouraging - sluggish is tweaking.

Oh, the seat will need work - two ways, actually. First, the seat just flips up. It appears there's supposed to be a latch, but that's not working correctly. If I have to replace, the second problem is immaterial - the seat's got a 2 inch seam tear. And I guess last but not least is that the bike's been painted at least once - it's blue, pretty decent job to include the striping, but the paint's old and it's been scraped a bit.

If I can track down a digital camera for cheap (my money's going into a motorcycle for a while) I'll take pictures and try to keep an "as I work" log. Don't expect to teach anyone anything new, but it'll still be entertaining (I think).

hmm, what else. Oh, I know. I found a small treasure. The shop boss for the local Suzuki dealer appears to be someone who knows of what he speaks. He made huge points in my eyes when he recognized MSF training (the first one out of six places I checked). Then he rattled off parts and items specific to the GS850 - things I'd read of here - and advised me what I could expect to purchase through his shop, what I could expect to get elsewhere, and a few things that while they could come from his shop he recommended elsewhere. Allegedly he is/was an MMI instructor (got a certification says something like that on the back wall, anyway), but it was the rattling without pulling stuff out that impressed me. Having the manual available was the bonus. I get to come and ask questions whenever, just some quid pro quo of letting his folk get some of my money for parts and SOME labor. Nothing advanced, he said, as he only has two people in the shop who'd know what to do for the advanced stuff and that issue of parts already mentioned makes for unhappy customers. Still, a nearby reference helps a lot.

nuff for now.

Kirk