Couldn't Happen to Me! Charging System GS1100EX

[Anonymous]

Really clean, garaged GS1100EX. Battery really weak a few days ago. I wrote it off to cold day and not riding for 2 weeks while out of town. Charged battery fully, rode 70 miles - battery weak again 36 hrs later. I ran the regulator/rectifier ground to the battery as recommended, despite a good clean ground at the RR. Meter check showed 13.6 v at 1500 rpm, but dropped to 12.5 v at 2500 rpm. No better at 5000 rpm. I wanted to check the stator output, but I found two of the four connectors were wrapped in heat hardened electrical tape (earlier problem?), and all showing heat damage - I couldn't pull any apart (and they may be soldered under there). I'm seeking advice at this point before I go cutting wires. Is there any point doing anything else, like renewing connections before further testing, or should I take it for granted I'm looking at a new stator/RR? How likely I'll need both? If so, I'll let my very competent mechanic do the work and renew connections (lack of time, not an excess of money). Electrex parts of course! Help!

[Anonymous]

One more thing: The battery was new at the beginning of the season and is holding a charge (not connected to the bike) at about 12.75 v.

[SqDancerLynn1]

As a starting point you need to clean/repair all connections before you can properly check the charging system so cut the wires, then check stator output should be aprox 70-80 vac minium at 5k rpm, if that checks ok reconnect all of the repaired wires and check the reg/rect for operation
Check the stator pages in the forum for specific directions if needed

[Hap Call]

I agree with SqDancerLynn1. I would expect the AC voltage to be at 80 to 87V A/C once the connections are cleaned. If you had problems in the past with these connections (evidence from the heat hardened tape) and never had it corrected then you still have problems.

Don't let your mechanic put crimp type connections on there; make sure that they are soldered on using the correct electronic solder and flux.

Hap

[Anonymous]

Okay. Tonight I uncovered (then cut off) those masses of corrosion that were the connectors. Tomorrow I'll check the stator output. I suppose if the AC output is within spec I should properly connect and solder the cut connections and retest the RR for correct DC output? By the way, I read one old post that suggested the red wire from the RR should be connected directly to the battery. Can that be right? I've split the ground wire from the RR to connect at both the battery and the original terminal.

[Hap Call]

Okay. Tonight I uncovered (then cut off) those masses of corrosion that were the connectors. Tomorrow I'll check the stator output. I suppose if the AC output is within spec I should properly connect and solder the cut connections and retest the RR for correct DC output? By the way, I read one old post that suggested the red wire from the RR should be connected directly to the battery. Can that be right? I've split the ground wire from the RR to connect at both the battery and the original terminal.

I need to look at my bike to confirm but it should be fine to run the red (output) wire directly to the battery. That would reduce the number of possible corrosion points between the R/R and the battery.

Hap

[Anonymous]

Okay. I checked the stator output - about 34 VAC at idle, 95 to 105 VAC at 5000 rpm. Then I crimped, then soldered, new butt connectors at all the RR/Stator junctions (all finished with double sleeves of heat-shrinkable insulation). I then checked the RR output - about 12.2 VDC at idle, but 14.2 VDC at 2500 rpm and 14.3 VDC at 5000 rpm! What do you think, have I come back from the dark side? I hope so! My wife says I'm her hero (I usually only hear that in the dark). Thanks for all your help and any further advice you have to offer.

[Hap Call]

Okay. I checked the stator output - about 34 VAC at idle, 95 to 105 VAC at 5000 rpm. Then I crimped, then soldered, new butt connectors at all the RR/Stator junctions (all finished with double sleeves of heat-shrinkable insulation). I then checked the RR output - about 12.2 VDC at idle, but 14.2 VDC at 2500 rpm and 14.3 VDC at 5000 rpm! What do you think, have I come back from the dark side? I hope so! My wife says I'm her hero (I usually only hear that in the dark). Thanks for all your help and any further advice you have to offer.

You have learned well, young Jedi Knight! Just be careful with that light saber! Remember what happened at Aunt Bertha's 82nd birthday bash? Don't want that happening again!


Hap

[focus frenzy]

Okay. I checked the stator output - about 34 VAC at idle, 95 to 105 VAC at 5000 rpm. Then I crimped, then soldered, new butt connectors at all the RR/Stator junctions (all finished with double sleeves of heat-shrinkable insulation). I then checked the RR output - about 12.2 VDC at idle, but 14.2 VDC at 2500 rpm and 14.3 VDC at 5000 rpm! What do you think, have I come back from the dark side? I hope so! My wife says I'm her hero (I usually only hear that in the dark). Thanks for all your help and any further advice you have to offer.

Yep it's fixed, voltage drop with revs is a classic symptom of bad conections, soldering them is a good long term repair.
the local "ORilley auto parts" now carries gold plated connectors, great for people who would rather still be able to unplug a item and still very resistant to corosion and a good conductor.