'80 GS450L Rebuild - Update

[Anonymous]

First road test.

[rebuilt petcock, carbs, caliper, re-tensioned camchain, plugs, oil, filter + full clean-up/replacement of aged things.. blah, blah]

It works!

Runs great, has balls. Smooth firing on idle and acceleration.

Now... The right cylinder seems to be running a little hotter (see blue pipe).

These carbs are preset (no air screw) will syncing them richen that cylinder up? Or, what do I need to do.

[focus frenzy]

Re: '80 GS450L Rebuild - Update

These carbs are preset (no air screw) will syncing them richen that cylinder up? Or, what do I need to do.

well it wont richen any but a sync job could help as when the carbs are out of sync one cylinder will be working harder than the other one.

you can adjust the pilot bleed air screws, you have to (carefully) drill out the plug over the adjustment screw.
I would also recomend that when you get the blocking plug out spray in a good penetrating oil and let it sit for a couple days so it can do it's job.
sitting unused all these years those pilot jet screws tend to gum up and they have ultra fine threads.

[Anonymous]

Re: '80 GS450L Rebuild - Update

you can adjust the pilot bleed air screws, you have to (carefully) drill out the plug over the adjustment screw.

I take it that's the adjustment my Clymers warns against making due to "heavy" EPA pollution fines.

Since this scooter is from a "box-o-parts" I'll need to get a title when she's done, which means an "inspection". Will that be noticed?

Is this something NOBODY (everybody) does. [e.g. catalytic converter bypass]

Is #1 where the pilot bleed air screw is?

What's behind door #2?

Where can I get a manometer?

(Jeeez) Thanks guys

Shanzi

[Anonymous]

i just inherited one of the gs 450 t models it is in beautiful shape but has been sitting 4 3 years.i also got an actual suzuki shop manual with it so if you want i will scan and post pages from that

[bgmart450]

Re: '80 GS450L Rebuild - Update

you can adjust the pilot bleed air screws, you have to (carefully) drill out the plug over the adjustment screw.

I take it that's the adjustment my Clymers warns against making due to "heavy" EPA pollution fines.

Since this scooter is from a "box-o-parts" I'll need to get a title when she's done, which means an "inspection". Will that be noticed?

Is this something NOBODY (everybody) does. [e.g. catalytic converter bypass]

Is #1 where the pilot bleed air screw is?

What's behind door #2?

Where can I get a manometer?

(Jeeez) Thanks guys

Shanzi

#2 is the cover over the shaft that connects the 2 carbs... Its the throttle 'butterfly' shaft thats under there.

#1 is the cap you are looking for for the mixture screw. If you completely dip your carbs you will need to remove these as there are rubber orings below that will be ruined if you don't.

I doubt anyone would look for that, but might be better to ask someone who does inspections in your state or someone who has gone through the process. I don't see how they would know that the carbs didn't come that way...

Oh yeah as far as I know no state I have lived in (maybe California does...) does emissions testing on bikes, especially of our vintage.

[Anonymous]

Thanks, to both of you.

I have a Clymer shop manual for the GS450L but if I need some scans I'll sure let you know.


bgmart450, Will that cap (#1) pop out or does it need to be drilled out.

Checked out your bikes... too cool!

[bgmart450]

Thanks

That one has to be drilled out carefully... There is a brass screw under that cap, don't wanna damage it. I was able to do it with a bit mostly (they stuck to the bit after a while) and I think one I had to pry out after drilling. Its not too bad, just take it slow.

[ccratin]

My fuel screw is on top of the carb in front of the vacuum diaphragm cover and has been drilled. I've seen older models of these carbs and they are also in this position. I don't believe your picture shows the location you need to drill. You'd have to remove the tank to get to it.

[ccratin]

My fuel screw is on top of the carb in front of the vacuum diaphragm cover and has been drilled. I've seen older models of these carbs and they are also in this position. I don't believe your picture shows the location you need to drill. You'd have to remove the tank to get to it. This is where you will need to make your adjustments after synching the carbs. I'd definitely suggest synching first though.

[maparker]

#1 is definitely the right one. I have an '81 450T and I just drilled mine out. I know what ccratin is talking about though, some of these bikes seem to have slightly different carbs, maybe different years, maybe different models, don't know.

Just us a small drill bit and go very slowly, often plugs like this will stick to your drill bit and spin out. If they dont after you drill your hole you can always screw a small screw into the hole you made and jerk the plug out with a pair of pliers. Just don't push the drill into the screw underneath, brass can be very delicate!

[ccratin]

Sure would be nicer if mine were in that position!

[maparker]

Yeah, I know what you mean, yours are newer and even my '81 had the plugs over the screws and a stern warning in the manual about not adjusting these screws due to strict EPA guidelines and the possibility for "heavy fines". I can easily adjust mine with the bike running, I bet they moved yours so that its more difficult and les "tempting" for you to drill them out and work on the bike yourself :?

[Anonymous]

thank you too much, again.

s

[Anonymous]

Drilled out the carbs.
Well, there was indeed a pilot air screw under there.
Did adjusting according to the manual: from bottom, out to 1 1/4, tune to highest rmp, adjust idle to 1100/1300.

Also received and installed new OEM oiled air filter replacement.
(Note the new Michelin Commander on the rear).

It's running balls to the wall, R's up to 7000+ easy, lots 'O' torque, front wheel wants to come up in speed-shift, idles fine. But it's still burning the crap out of the pipes (mostly right side). They seem to be getting more discoloured (blue, blue-black).

Still too lean, right?

Wha???

[bgmart450]

I'm pretty sure you should do a plug check. Plenty of posts about that method you can search on. I am thinking the condtion of your plugs will be a better determining factor than the color of the pipes. (not that the pipes are lying mind you...)

BTW they do run pretty nice for a smallish bike, eh?