Starter Problem

[Anonymous]

I have a GS750T. Bike sat for about 2 weeks, went to start it. It turned over a few times and then acted like the Batt was dead. The Batt has a full charge. Now the Relay just clicks but the bike won't turn over.

Help.

[braindead0]

Clean your starter motor, you'll need to remove it to do so of course. I had an '83 KZ-750 that I had to remove and cleanup the starter at least once a year. While in there check the brushes..

that's my suggestion.

[BriTXbike]

I just ran into this problem with my 850. I went the long way to resolve a simple problem. It's in reverse order so you make sure you start with 1!Here is a short list of what I did

3. Took out the Starter and checked brushes. They were bad and very dirty so cleaned and got replacement brushes. Best place to buy http://stockers.com/
2. Clean all the grounds, especially the one to the Transmission block.
1. Charge battery for 24 at 2amps. Check for 12 and make sure it hold above 12.7V.
-If no then replace battery
-If yes then mount battery and turn the key over, Check volts between (+) and (-). If it drops below 12.2V then bad battery

Report back if none of that resolves the issue and we can dig into the electrical connection issues or maybe a solenoid.

[Anonymous]

where would the one ground on the transmission block?

[BriTXbike]

The ground cable that connects to your (-) terminal. Follow it down and it should be attached in front of the swing arm on the main block. I don't have a good picture I can show you.

[braindead0]

The ground cable that connects to your (-) terminal. Follow it down and it should be attached in front of the swing arm on the main block. I don't have a good picture I can show you.

Hey, that helps me too.. when I removed the engine I had already taken off the battery.. and as I'm tearing it down I notice that cable..hrm.. I don't remember taking this off ;-).. Thought it was to connect to the frame or something ;-)

[DaveDanger]

A tiny bit more information on the battery check advice from briTXbike.. what he's giving you is basically the standard "Starter Current Draw" test. This is one of the very first checks that should be done on any troubleshoot of a starting system malfunction. A battery should be capable of maintaining a specific minimum voltage while under starter draw. For a 12 (14) volt battery, that specific minimum should be 9.6 volts while under starter load. If the battery voltage measured across the battery posts drops below this voltage, you have a battery with weak capacity, or ability to hold a charge. If connecting an outside battery source (jumping with cables) makes the starter spin with no problem, that tends to back up the weak battery idea. If the starter still seems to spin slowly or not at all, suspect that the starter itself is in need of work, either bearings/bushings are tight from years of heat, or the shaft is warped from a combination of heat and torque. An automotive or motorcycle shop should be equipped with a hand-held starter load tester, which simply clamps to the battery posts and a knob is rotated which loads the battery with an electrical load (an internal bank of resistors) to simulate the starter draw. The resulting battery voltage should tell you the same type of info that the actual starter does.