Should my R/R be hot?

[my98xplorer]

On the way home today from a a short ride (went to get a new tire) my bike started puttering. As i pulled into the drive way, it went dead, no power at all. I checked my fuses and sure enough, the main power fuse was blown. I replaced it and it started no problem. I was checking my ground wires from the R/R and making sure nothing came loose and i noticed that the wires were pretty hot, and the R/R unit was also very hot, is this normal? I am having the same issues as some other members, battery not charging. I replaced the r/r and stator, and new battery last night. Only problem is, i went to charge the battery, and my charger crapped out on me. I had to install the battery this morning to go get the new tire. ( i can only get there on the weekends) Since i didnt charge the battery, is it crap now?

Thanks for the help, Brian

[SqDancerLynn1]

The reg is probably toast

[my98xplorer]

The reg is probably toast

Well i ran the bike again, but the fuse didnt blow. Im thinking maybe something grounded out and caused it to blow??

[redliner1973]

I would go through the complete system via The Stator Papers and check everything, including the connections--especially the connections..

[Joe Nardy]

I would go through the complete system via The Stator Papers and check everything, including the connections--especially the connections..

I second Tim's motion. Especially the connections, even more especially ALL GROUNDS!

Joe

[focus frenzy]

Re: Should my R/R be hot?

I had to install the battery this morning to go get the new tire. ( i can only get there on the weekends) Since i didnt charge the battery, is it crap now?

if your charging system is working fine, the battery will be fine.

it is best to charge it first but is not necisary as the process of activating a battery (putting the electrolite in it) will make for a 60-70% charge.

[ZacharyB]

My new R/R was putting out so much voltage it blew the fuse when I would step on the rear brake. I solved the problem by running a new ground from the negative post on the battery to somewhere on the frame. Give that extra electricity somewhere to go.

[rek]

mine was also doing that , main fuse blowing for no apparent reason R/R hot to touch. then one day it started but the headlight would not burn?? fuse ok, did some checking and started cleaning up some things, all the fuse terminals were corroded so badly only 10v was getting thru. took a dremel with a wire brush and polished up all grounds, fuse holders and connections and installed a Honda cm450 r/r and it is the electrical champ!! just followed directions on this site and a couple hours later it was great!! 14v all the time.

[my98xplorer]

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions guys! Can someone tell me if the r/r is supposed to be hot after a ride though? Its a beautiful day (here anyway) someone go for a ride and then touch the r/r and let me know please!

[scotty]

I have the honda mod on my1100e and the rr is always very hot.

I would go with the connections and ground cleanings.

[redliner1973]

Can someone tell me if the r/r is supposed to be hot after a ride though?

Yes, It will be warm/hot to the touch. This is why it has cooling fins on it. Quit touching it and ride!!

[my98xplorer]

Can someone tell me if the r/r is supposed to be hot after a ride though?

Yes, It will be warm/hot to the touch. This is why it has cooling fins on it. Quit touching it and ride!!

Hahaha, id like to but everytime i ride, it blows the main power fuse. I got the part off Ebay from a guy who said he bought it brand new about a month ago then wrecked his bike. We'll see what happens now.

[scotty]

then do the hard work and remove and clean every connection on the bike---ALL

[Billy Ricks]

Blowing main fuses can be a symptom of a bad stator. Either do the Suzuki recomended test or use "THe Stator Papers" test. I've posted the Suzuki test numerous times, here it is again.

You can check you regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.


Stator Test

The testing procedure for my 700, yours will be the same, involves disconnecting the three stator wires and running the bike at 5,000 rpm. You then place the probe of a multi-tester in each of the three wires. + probe in one terminal and - probe in another. Keep the + probe on the same wire and check the other two with the - probe. Then move the + probe to the next wire and check the other two with the - probe. Again + on the remaining wire. Check each of the wires against each other two this way. I'm not sure what voltage you should look for on an 1100, my 700 calls for 80 volts AC. You should get consistent readings on each attempt. These are the three yellow wires under the gas tank.You want to test the ends of the wires coming out of the starter cover under the carbs.

You can do a continuity check using the same procedure. With the motor off and the tester set to check for continuity check each wire against the other two. You should get a tone if the stator is okay as far as any breaks. You can test for shorts by testing each with one probe on the wire and the other on the frame. If you get a tone or meter reaction you have a short.

[Anonymous]

'84 GS450 I read through all the Stator Pages and found I had AC voltage withing the range specified, and no good ohm reading with the R/R. So I ordered one through Electro Sport and intalled it. I seemed to be charging fine the first day, but now shows no sign of charging since then.

I went through the tests again and found that none of the stator leads were producing any voltage, and with infinite (open) resistance.

1. Could puting a brand new R/R cause the Stator to go all open circuits?
2. Did this fry my R/R?
3. I'm prepared to order a stator from Electro Sport but would order a new R/R if this new one is fried. Below are resistance tests for both older Suzuki R/R (called Suz R/R) and the Electro Sport R/R (called ES R/R)
all in Ohm's:
Neg on A
Suz R/R - ES R/R
Pos on B - 18 - 16
C - 18 - 16
D - 18 - 16
E 36 52

Neg on B
Suz R/R - ES R/R
Pos on A - inf - inf
C - 39 - inf
D - inf - inf
E - 18 - 16

Neg on C
Suz R/R - ES R/R
Pos on A - inf - inf
B - inf - inf
D - inf - inf
E - 12 - 16

Neg on D
Suz R/R - ES R/R
Pos on A - inf - inf
B - inf - inf
C - 36 - inf
E - 18 - 16

Neg on E
Suz R/R - ES R/R
Pos on A - inf - inf
B - inf - inf
C - 12 - inf
D - inf - inf

I'm going to drain oil anyways and have a look at the stator and internal connectors? Just in case it's a connector problem.

Cheers,

Chris


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