82 gs850. Fork oil ...access???

[Anonymous]

I believe the seals are shot, but just for grins I want to add oil. I assume even though these things are air damped, there is still oil in them.

question: how to fill? under the top caps lie the air nozzles. Does that assembly somehow screw off?

Question: amount of oil? 8, 8.5 oz??

I ask because I had not seen any identical posts from the home page.

mike

[duaneage]

The oil level is a critical safety item. They must be within 1 mm of each other and at the correct level. Most people measure how much they drain and try to put the same back in. Others use a ruller with the fork straight up on the bench to get the level, the manual is good resource for this procedure. Another method uses a fluid pump to draw oil out until it is the correct level, also covered in the Clymers manual.

[redliner1973]

I use one of those big 60CC syringe's you can get from a feed store and use that as a measurement. Works well. AS for your forks, teh air inlet is on the top cap, correct? if so, remove the whole cap, and add fluid there. To remove old fluid, remove the phillips head screw from the bottom of the fork area. Make sure you deplete ALL air from the system before you crack open those screws, or you will be looking for where it shot off to....Don't ask me how I know this.. :roll: Be careful when reinstalling caps as not to cross-thread them, you will be fighting the force of the fork spring when you put it back on.

[Anonymous]

I'm home now and the om says 8.2 oz. Yeah, I have the bleed screw and have already washed 2 other bikes ( think about it ). How do the caps on top come off??


mike

[Anonymous]

never mind... figured it out. 7/8 wrench...lefty loosey.

I can parallel the force of the oil coming out of the drain hole with a hippo taking a leak. Same diffused spray, not the same smell but running a close second.

Didn't know what to expect and believe the seals are shot anyway so I went old school on the oil (30w). Listen, regardless of the composition... palmolive would have been better than what came out!

Here's a hint when screwing on the caps: remove the shim and hand screw to find where it "grabs". remember that position, re-insert the shim and start the cap a little before that spot. With a downward force and a twist, you should find it grabs right away. be sure to not cross thread.

We'll see how far this takes me. If it's back to mush in a week, we'll know that a rebuild is in need. If not, maybe a good flush and actual fluid.

bike rides firmer now with much more damping. I also have the rears set up to max now as well.


mike