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Hey guys looking for some input...
I have a "bone stock" 79 GS 550L that I have perfomed the following on:
1.) Cleaned and Cremed the gas tank.
2.) Cleaned the gas cap vent.
3.) Cleaned the petcock and ensured that it worked.
Replaced the fuel lines (petcock and main feed) and fuel filter
4.) Adjusted the valves shimed to spec.
5.) Cleaned the airbox and the air filter and re oiled the filter with 10-40
6.) Replaced the plugs and gapped to spec.
7.) Filed flat and adjusted the "Kukosan" points to spec around .014 I believe (they still have about 1mm of material on each point) and adjusted the timing using a test light until the light just barely went out on both points. The spark when the points separte is very minimal so i think the condensors are ok.
8.) Checked the resistance on the the primary and secondary side of each coil. I cant remember what they measured, but they were with in the specs given by Earl.
9.) The compression is about 110-120 per cylinder (with out the clutch pulled in).
10.) The battery has a full charge of about 12.5-13volts and the water level is good. The charging system seems to be working ok.
11.) Replaced the intake o rings and applied a small amout of high temp grease. Also applied a small amount of grease on the o rings on the inside of the intake boots on the carb side. Replaced the hardware with socket heads. Ensured that all of the hose clamps were tight and round to seal the airbox side and head side of the carbs. boots are in good condition no cracks or holes.
12.) Dismantled and cleaned the *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ out of the carbs three times using a small wire to clear all of the jets. Let the carbs sit in carb cleaner (chemtool) over night and then blew all of the components out with compessed air. When I cleaned the carbs I didnt mess with the fuel pilot screw located near the bottom of the bowl however I am not the original owner and there is nothing to indicate that it hasnt been messed with by the previous owner, i.e., if there was yellow paint there originally it isnt there now nor before I cleaned them. I made sure that the fuel pilot needles were not sticking through the inside wall of the carb and made sure that the passages were clear by blowing carb cleaner and compressed air through the idle circuit of the carb. I adjsuted the air mixture screw to 2 turns out and replaced the o rings on the needle. I didnt mess with the slide adjustment assembly, i just cleaned it well and then reinstalled it into the carb body. The needle and seat does not have any wear from extended contact and the floats have all been set to precisely 26mm. the needle spring seems to be functional and the floats do not have any cracks or holes in them - they are also straight and not bent up. I also reduced the two upper vent lines on the carbs to about 3 inches. Everybody else was doing it so i thought i would give it a try
13.) I have sprayed the intake area down with a ton of water to try and find a vacuum leak and have found nothing - (I do not want to use wd-40 or any other oil so please dont suggest this) I also sprayed the head area down with water to check for head gasket leaks - also there was no increase in RPM.
14.) I have not synced the carbs with a merc stick because I am afraid of sucking mercury into the motor due to it sometimes increasing to around 3000 and higher rpm from idle for no apparent reason. I have tried to adjust the mixture screws by the higher rpm method but have not had any sucess since I cant hear any significant change in rpm in either direction. This occurs even when trying to adjust each side of the motor at a time. So i set them back to 2 full turns out on each carb.
Sooo....
The bike runs and runs great going down the road, but I have to regulate the gas during cranking when its cold, and it only fires on two or three cylinders when I first crank it. As I reduce the choke which I have to do immediately or it will foul out the plugs it starts to fire on all four, but i still have to regulate the gas, if I let off it will die. Once I start off after two or three minutes of running and the choke half way between on and off, it sputters a little once in a while and backfires through the exhaust especially when I let out of the gas. Once its warmed up it runs great going down the road (choke completely off). Sometimes it will idle smooth as silk. Others or 50% of the time it will have an erratic idle. Somtimes when I come to a stop light it will idle low 1200rpm and smooth for 5 minitues, others it will rev to around 3000-5000rpm with no throttle. This will occur until I let out the clutch a little and bog it down. Then it will idle at around 1200rpm and continue that way a period of time and then try and rev up again.
The plugs seem to be burning ok but i have never been impressed with their spark - In my opinion it sucks but this it the first points style ignition system I have worked with so I have nothing to compare it to.
I am wondering if the ignition system is the root of my problem, and if that is the case the Kukosan style points are so expensive that i might as well convert over to an electronic ignition. If that is the case what is the best and most cost effective method of converting the bike over to electronic ignition. Also what coils will work on this bike that are used on other late model bikes (can i just get a coil that has the same primary and secondary resistance or is it more involved than that?) What other than an intake leak would make the engine rev up with no throttle and what are the symptoms of the carbs not being synced with a flow meter or mercury stick.
On another note can you hook the bike up to a battery charger (2 or 6 amp) during cranking to help reduce the strain on the battery or will this hurt the charging system.
HEEEELPPPP!!!!!! I am going insane 8O
I have a "bone stock" 79 GS 550L that I have perfomed the following on:
1.) Cleaned and Cremed the gas tank.
2.) Cleaned the gas cap vent.
3.) Cleaned the petcock and ensured that it worked.
Replaced the fuel lines (petcock and main feed) and fuel filter
4.) Adjusted the valves shimed to spec.
5.) Cleaned the airbox and the air filter and re oiled the filter with 10-40
6.) Replaced the plugs and gapped to spec.
7.) Filed flat and adjusted the "Kukosan" points to spec around .014 I believe (they still have about 1mm of material on each point) and adjusted the timing using a test light until the light just barely went out on both points. The spark when the points separte is very minimal so i think the condensors are ok.
8.) Checked the resistance on the the primary and secondary side of each coil. I cant remember what they measured, but they were with in the specs given by Earl.
9.) The compression is about 110-120 per cylinder (with out the clutch pulled in).
10.) The battery has a full charge of about 12.5-13volts and the water level is good. The charging system seems to be working ok.
11.) Replaced the intake o rings and applied a small amout of high temp grease. Also applied a small amount of grease on the o rings on the inside of the intake boots on the carb side. Replaced the hardware with socket heads. Ensured that all of the hose clamps were tight and round to seal the airbox side and head side of the carbs. boots are in good condition no cracks or holes.
12.) Dismantled and cleaned the *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ out of the carbs three times using a small wire to clear all of the jets. Let the carbs sit in carb cleaner (chemtool) over night and then blew all of the components out with compessed air. When I cleaned the carbs I didnt mess with the fuel pilot screw located near the bottom of the bowl however I am not the original owner and there is nothing to indicate that it hasnt been messed with by the previous owner, i.e., if there was yellow paint there originally it isnt there now nor before I cleaned them. I made sure that the fuel pilot needles were not sticking through the inside wall of the carb and made sure that the passages were clear by blowing carb cleaner and compressed air through the idle circuit of the carb. I adjsuted the air mixture screw to 2 turns out and replaced the o rings on the needle. I didnt mess with the slide adjustment assembly, i just cleaned it well and then reinstalled it into the carb body. The needle and seat does not have any wear from extended contact and the floats have all been set to precisely 26mm. the needle spring seems to be functional and the floats do not have any cracks or holes in them - they are also straight and not bent up. I also reduced the two upper vent lines on the carbs to about 3 inches. Everybody else was doing it so i thought i would give it a try
13.) I have sprayed the intake area down with a ton of water to try and find a vacuum leak and have found nothing - (I do not want to use wd-40 or any other oil so please dont suggest this) I also sprayed the head area down with water to check for head gasket leaks - also there was no increase in RPM.
14.) I have not synced the carbs with a merc stick because I am afraid of sucking mercury into the motor due to it sometimes increasing to around 3000 and higher rpm from idle for no apparent reason. I have tried to adjust the mixture screws by the higher rpm method but have not had any sucess since I cant hear any significant change in rpm in either direction. This occurs even when trying to adjust each side of the motor at a time. So i set them back to 2 full turns out on each carb.
Sooo....
The bike runs and runs great going down the road, but I have to regulate the gas during cranking when its cold, and it only fires on two or three cylinders when I first crank it. As I reduce the choke which I have to do immediately or it will foul out the plugs it starts to fire on all four, but i still have to regulate the gas, if I let off it will die. Once I start off after two or three minutes of running and the choke half way between on and off, it sputters a little once in a while and backfires through the exhaust especially when I let out of the gas. Once its warmed up it runs great going down the road (choke completely off). Sometimes it will idle smooth as silk. Others or 50% of the time it will have an erratic idle. Somtimes when I come to a stop light it will idle low 1200rpm and smooth for 5 minitues, others it will rev to around 3000-5000rpm with no throttle. This will occur until I let out the clutch a little and bog it down. Then it will idle at around 1200rpm and continue that way a period of time and then try and rev up again.
The plugs seem to be burning ok but i have never been impressed with their spark - In my opinion it sucks but this it the first points style ignition system I have worked with so I have nothing to compare it to.
I am wondering if the ignition system is the root of my problem, and if that is the case the Kukosan style points are so expensive that i might as well convert over to an electronic ignition. If that is the case what is the best and most cost effective method of converting the bike over to electronic ignition. Also what coils will work on this bike that are used on other late model bikes (can i just get a coil that has the same primary and secondary resistance or is it more involved than that?) What other than an intake leak would make the engine rev up with no throttle and what are the symptoms of the carbs not being synced with a flow meter or mercury stick.
On another note can you hook the bike up to a battery charger (2 or 6 amp) during cranking to help reduce the strain on the battery or will this hurt the charging system.
HEEEELPPPP!!!!!! I am going insane 8O
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