81 GS450L - Should I rescusitate it?

[federline]

Well, I hauled away this bike for free a while ago, and I finally am starting to look at it. It has 42,000 miles. It is a "basket case" - some of it's parts came in a basket.

It has sat for a while in a barn, but this gal looks repairable. I have never worked on motorcycles before, let alone a GS, just cars, trucks, other small engines, snowmobiles...

I'm looking for some advice regarding rescusitation, I can't spend much on it at all, I have other vices to blow money on, too - Here's some observations I've made, with questions:

1) BRAKES: Front hydraulic brakes are seized. Clymer says rebuilding master cylinder and brake pistons requires special tools and expertise. What are my options? Rebuild at shop? How much for that? Replace? How much for that?

2) BRAKES: Rear drum brake sticking (not siezed). This looks doable and inexpensive. Correct?

3) STARTER: Can't get starter to work - ignition coil fried? How can I test that the starter is OK at all? Is the case on the starter grounded? I have to see this engine crank and spark before I'll go any further.

4) FORKS: Two owners ago rebuilt forks, but forgot to put dust caps back on top before putting them back together. Is that a Big Deal if everything else is working? If everything else were working, I'd eventually take the forks apart anyway, and replace the dust caps, but I wonder if I could get by OK.

5) CLUTCH: Got it with chain cover, chain and drive spoket off. Figured out what the clutch pushrod was... is the clutch pushrod supposed to flop in-and-out and spin freely, and not be able to be pulled out? Can I test the clutch motion somehow without putting the cable and cover back together? Or is the fact that the pushrod flopping in and out a clue that the clutch is stuck out?

6) STARTING: What circuits have to be on/off for the starter to normally kick over? I see a clutch lever switch on the underside, so I assume the clutch lever must be pulled.

7) ELECTRIC: What size is the main fuse? This one is missing the fuse. I threw a 15A in there to try to test the starter with, and it didn't blow.

Otherwise, I can verify 1-down and 5-up, good wheels and wheel bearings, electric system functioning, straight frame, forks, bars, good body pieces, tank, lights, etc. It seems like a restoration candidate, like my 1975 Arctic Cat Lynx snowmobile was.

In addition to the questions above, I'll take any tips, tricks, gotchas, or other advice about this project.

Thanks in advance, guys, this looks like an awesome Forum.

[FTGRET]

Everyone of your questions have been covered in depth at some point or another. Your best bet is to use the search function. You really are going to need a manual to work on it so that may be your first step.

Good luck with the project and welcome to GSR.

[snark]

1. Buy a Clymer Manual.
2. Nothing you've brought up is that major. I just rebuilt a 1980 GS450L for a friend of mine that we hauled out of a shed in peices. It can be done and is worth it.
3. Between the spare parts the members here have, and Ebay, it shouldn't be that expensive. Even I have some old parts laying around that I'm sure we could work out a deal on. PM me if you're interested.
4. What part of the country are you in? You may find a local GSer willing to help in person.
5. Enjoy the project. I've brought 2 of these girls back to life and it has been well worth it.

[federline]

***groan***

I spent two hours on the board already searching for an answer to the clutch pushrod question before I posted. Found lots of info on the pushrod seal and the two types and how to get them out, blah blah blah... but not an answer to my question. I can't believe searching the forum is "my best bet". Maybe I don't have the time to be part of this owners club.....

I have a Clymer's manual, as I hinted in my post. Or is that not a good enough manual? That would be really helpful to know, too.

Some reasons for my questions: Couldn't find the fuse size in the Clymer's or in the forum search. Couldn't find info on how to identify what front brake parts would cause seizing of brakes. [...] [...]

It's not like I'm sitting on my butt and crying "It's dead, where do I start? I'm helpless." I've run around the block twice already. I may be an id10t sometimes, but I'd hope there's someone out there who'll take the time to show my WHY I'm an id10t!

Take two?

[snark]

It is a 15 amp fuse.
I have a spare caliper I planning to put on Ebay.
All of the manuals have mistakes. I have the Clymer, the Haynes, AND the Factory Suzuki Manual for the bike I read all 3 and go from there.
I'll check my books for you on the clutch issue if it will help. The wiring diagrams will help you sort out the starting circut. That clutch must be pulled in to start. If the starter cranks, check for a spark. Your next stop if there is no spark will be the igniter and the coils. Test the igniter at that point. That will most likely be the problem.
If the forks aren't leaking, just put new dust covers on for the time being.
Ground the starter silenoid to see if the starter works. If the starter cranks, the problem is in the clutch switch or the silenoid itself.
The Master cylinder is usually availible on Ebay cheap. The plunger that the brake handle pushes in is mostlikely what seized.

[federline]

snark, you beat me by two minutes! I've started this project with a couple hours assessment today and then searching here, and then signing up and making my first post! If I lose momentum, the DA (my better half) will guilt me into ditching this project and I'll just spend more time ice fishing this winter...

I'm in the northwest part of the Twin Cities Metro (Minneapolis, MN). If there is a GS'er local I could ping questions off as I get started here, I'd love to hear from them. jfederline at yahoo dot com.

I've seen the constant stream of parts on eBay. The killer is having to wait until the one you want "shows up". I'd like to find a better list of suppliers than hoping on eBay.

Another questions that's killing me - the front brake, if I can't rebuild it, looks like it will be one of the larger expenses (unless the starter is bad). I've found the caliper assembly for $150 to $200 OEM online. Anyone know a place who can rebuild front calipers and master cylinders for a better price? Like I said, motorcycles are new for me.

[federline]

Dang, a mindreader, too! One brake caliper, up for auction!

I'll look into a Haynes manual as well. Where can a guy find a factory manual for an 81 GS450L? Are they rare? I had a devil of a time finding an original factory parts list for my '75 Arctic Cat.

Thanks a ton, those are the jumpstarts I needed!

[snark]

I have an extra caliper we can make a deal on. check the parts wanted section on this site.

[snark]

The factory manual I got off of Ebay. You see them every once in a while.
Let me know about the caliper and anything else you may need. I'll see what I have and we can work something out. I'll wait a few days to put up the auction to give you first crack that my parts bin.
Membership has its privleges!

[jhw84]

Federline: www.bikebandit.com

M/C rebuild kit should be about $20 (didnt check for yours but have for others).

Clymer manual is what I have, which has guided me through anything from oil change to stator replacement.

A GS basket case would probably need about $500 in parts to get it road worthy. Probably stator and r/r.

Forks could probably use an oil change; dont do the ATF crap in there, go buy Bel Ray 15w fork oil. 10w for a soft front end, or 20w for a stiff front end. If the seals dont weep the new oil, I would wait until next winter(dust boots require removing the forks... No big deal, but can be a pain).

The clutch pushrod will rotate and come out and all that. As long as it is not bent (even a slight bow), dont worry, just put it in the hole. Testing the clutch requires the cover, because of the way it works. Unless you are strong enough to push in the rod to actuate the clutch. The seal is good if the pushrod is in and no oil leaks out.

Ahh.. My favorite part: starting. Ignition must be on, kill switch ON(rt hand controls), and clutch pulled in. If the starter doesent spin, start with simplest things first: ignition, kill switch, clutch safety switch(can be bypassed in headlight bucket), battery juice, starter relay, then the motor.

Hmm.. Not sure what size my main fuse is...

Hope that helps. Gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling knowing that another GS 450 is being rescued.

Sorry about your location. Been there once, and havent been back since.

Oh, and welcome to the forum.

[mrquadriga]

Federine......

If you don't know about Sportwheels already you should get some knowledge on them. Big junkyard, located either in Savage or Jordan (I forget which town) right on Hwy 169. Lots of GS's there...fun to go look at if you're into that type of thing. Can also be found on the 'net by doing a Google search for Sportwheels. Sorry can't help you on the repair part as I have no skills and I'm not too close (up by Duluth) but willing to ride with you next year if you ever head up this way. Good Luck!-Pete

[nabrams]

You may have seen all this before, but just in case:

If the bike has been sitting for some time you're going to have many tasks to perform before the bike runs properly.
Here's some advice I gave to somemone:
I've "restored" two GS450 bikes that had been sitting for long periods (mine and a friend's) so I've encountered almost all the typical issues.
You will almost certainly need to do a thorough carb cleaning. The fact that it started up is deceptive. It will not produce smooth, full power till you get those carbs spotless. Your air filter element, air box and all boots that connect to the carbs will have to be checked (any air leaks and all bets are off - see my other posts about this). Your regulator/rectifier and stator should be checked (as described in the garage section of this site). It is also likely that you'll have some loose and/or dirty electrical connections.
Some of the cables may need lubrication and adjustment. Of course, you will need a new battery.
If you've never done any of the above stuff then it will take you a while to learn it all and to acquire the right tools - anywhere between 25 and 60 hours of work - I'm trying to be realistic here based on my own experience. The second time I did a "restore" (on my friend's GS450) it went much, much faster. A Clymer's manual is a must.
If you're in no rush and you enjoy wrenching an hour or two a night then I'd say go for it. If not, you could take it to shop and pay an arm-and-a-leg for them to do half-baked job that you'll have to "finish up" - once again, I'm speaking from personal experience I had with a Honda many years ago.

Here's some more:
You had a running bike before the carb rebuild, so I'd guess your main problem is with the carbs. However, it is possible that other factors are just borderline enough that a slightly worse carb situation would expose those issues as well.
Before tearing the carbs down again, verify all the easy stuff first:
1. Put in brand new plugs - I can't tell you how much time I've wasted just to finally realize that my plugs were so wet and fouled that the bike had no chance of starting. This is especially common after doing carb related stuff.
2. Verify your air filter element and box and boots are all set up properly and that there are NO air leaks.
3. Using those new plugs, check that each one is sparking. If the bike is properly carbureted, even a faily weak spark should ignite the fuel/air mixture.
4. Verify that your petcock is letting fuel through to all carbs.
If all of the above checks out OK and you still can't get her started, then it's time to tear into those carbs again. Make sure your floats aren't leaking (there should be no liquid sloshing around inside of them) - I once overlooked that very important test and spent many hours fiddling with other things till I remebered to check if my floats were leaking. Sure enough, one of them was leaking like a sieve.

Also:
Your starter motor may be really dirty inside, preventing full electrical contact: been-there, done-that.

I would NOT replace any gaskets if the leaks are relatively minor. If they are minor just seal them up with high-temp silicone - worked like a charm on my friend's GS450.

The 1980 GS450 is CDI ignition so there's no timing adjustment necessary.

Of course the gas tank must be drained.
Soaking the carbs in gas is useless, you must disassemble the carbs and clean them meticulously (especially if they've been sitting for two years).

[Ghostgs1]

Factory manuals

manuals.com had what I needed. Around $50.

[ccratin]

I doubt if you need to replace all your brake parts either. Pull them off and take them apart and clean out all the rust that has likely accumulated, then make an assessment of the rubber parts. They are all basically available, so you should be able to rebuild much cheaper than buying new. Unless they are so badly pitted from rust, they should be ok. They are really very simple mechanisms to repair.