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**Anonymous** · 10-22-2002, 01:41 PM

To change the oil, place the bike on its center stand on level ground. open the cap at the top right of the case, it might even say what oil to use. Most use 10W 40. Under the bike is a drain plug, unscrew it and drain into a pan. i use an old paint rolling pan. Also you want to replace the filter. it is under the round cover at the front of the engine between the exhaust headers facing the rear of the front tire. Usually has three screws holding. My 1100 has three crown nuts holding it to fixed threaded studs. Watch out when you remove as ther is a spring to hold the filter in place. Crack the filter cover and let oil drain from there too. When it stops remove the scres cap and filter. Get a new on and replace in reverse order. Clean and replace the drain plug and fill the bike. Watch the little sight window in the right engine cover. Fill until you see the level of the oil. THere's a full and fill mark, make sure it is to the top mark. Replace the cap, start the engine, let it warm up and then shut it off again after 5 minutes, recheck the oil level, now into the filter and top off. I'm not sure about how much oil you need to fill it. My bigger engine uses 3 ltr for oil change and 3.3 ltr for oil and filter change. By your oil in a gallon jug. cheaper and easier to to use.
If your 65o doesn't have a sight window, someone else will have to tell you how much oil you need, but I think all GS bikes have one.
GY

**lberkhei** · 10-22-2002, 01:52 PM

Search this forum and you'll find lots of previous discussions, opinions, disagreements, etc. on the topic of oil. Basically, since you're skipping the synthetic issue for now, you want a 10W-40 or 20W-50 oil. Some folks, myself included, favor the oils billed as 'heavy duty' and well-suited for diesel engines, too. These (at least the Pennzoil I use) are available in 15W-40. Just avoid anything with the "Energy-conserving" notation in the circular symbol, usually found on the back label. Some folks swear by motorcycle specific oils, but a lot of us use the standard automotive oils meeting the guidelines I've stated above with no problems.

Regarding quantity, yes, there are 'full' and 'add' marks by the sight glass in the case.obviously, check it with the bike level, on the centerstand.

**Anonymous** · 10-22-2002, 02:50 PM

I'm not sure if all bikes are like this but mine has the volume of oil in mL stamped on the engine casing (right-side, near oil cap). But always check for full/fill, that filter soaks up quite a bit more than you might think.

GS 450 is 2600 mL or 2.6 L of oil.

**Anonymous** · 10-22-2002, 03:09 PM

PLEASE SEE NEXT POSTING

**Anonymous** · 10-22-2002, 03:12 PM

OK GERRY
YOUR OIL CHANGE DESCRIPTION IS THE FIRST ITEM I HAVE PUT IN MY GS DOCUMENT FOLDER. I changed a couple of words but if we can edit it, I will then save the final work as a starter for the team efforT--i think that Duncan is working on something also but im not sure

anyone please read this and suggest ghanges and this item is aGENERAL how to item

IT IS PREFERED THAT THE ENGINE BE WARM BEFORE STARTING TO change the oil. place the bike on its center stand on level ground. open the cap at the top right of the case, it might even say what oil to use. Most use 10W 40. Under the bike is a drain plug, unscrew it and drain into a pan. i use an old paint rolling pan. Also you want to replace the filter. it is under the round cover at the front of the engine between the exhaust headers facing the rear of the front tire. Usually has three OR 5 screws holding. My 1100 has three crown nuts holding it to fixed threaded studs. Watch out when you remove THE COVER as there is a spring to hold the filter in place. Crack the filter cover and let oil drain from there too. When it stops, remove the screws, cap and filter. Get a new one and replace in reverse order. Clean and replace the drain plug and fill the bike. Watch the little sight window in the right engine cover. Fill until you see the level of the oil. THere's a full and fill mark, make sure it is to the top mark. Replace the cap, start the engine, let it warm up and then shut it off again after 5 minutes, recheck the oil level, now into the filter and top off. I'm not sure about how much oil you need to fill it. My bigger engine uses 3 ltr for oil change and 3.3 ltr for oil and filter change. By your oil in a gallon jug. cheaper and easier to to use.

GY

**Anonymous** · 10-22-2002, 04:05 PM

Besides being more specific about "under the bike" there should be mention that some bikes do not have the oil site, mine has a dipstick.

I'm not sure where the drain for the shaft on a G model is but there should be a note that differentiates the plugs if it's close.

Also mention that the engine oil is also the transmission fluid, many noobies don't know this and it's important to know.

Maybe put in a note about what it means if the oil smells funny or has gas in it. You don't need to explain how to repair the carbs, just note that this indicates carb problems.

At the end, mention that oil change companies are required by law to take your used oil (they charge that couple dollars environmental fee sometimes).

And mention they should do a search on dino and synth oils in the archives if they want to know about oil types rather than re-post.

**Anonymous** · 10-22-2002, 04:18 PM

I added the posibility that some models have a dip stick

**Del** · 10-23-2002, 08:05 AM

slamtry, it wouldn't hurt to get a manual for your bike.

I have an '82 GS650G and the Clymer's to go with it, which is how I know that the GS650G (shaft-drive) has TWO drain plugs for oil. The second is in the secondary drive gear cavity.

The owners manual says to use 10W-40, but 10W-50 or 20W-50 is okay in warmer climates if 10W-40 is not available. It says 2.5L capacity.

The Clymer's says 10W-40 SE rated. It says 2.6 quarts if you don't change the filter; 3.4 quarts if you do. I always change the filter when I change the oil.

If your sight glass is so dirty that it's hard to see the markings, you can fill until the oil is about halfway in the circle.

Good luck,
Del

**SqDancerLynn1** · 10-23-2002, 03:22 PM

Something else to add MY gs850g also has seperate trans oil calls for 90 wt gear oil as marked on the case. level indicator for the trans is the 10mm headed screw in the recess above the gear shift lever when full oil should drip from screw opening. All differentals for the shaft drive models use 90 wt gear oil. Maybe add a seperat adduem for shaft drive bikes

**Anonymous** · 10-23-2002, 04:15 PM

Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1

Something else to add MY gs850g also has seperate trans oil calls for 90 wt gear oil as marked on the case. level indicator for the trans is the 10mm headed screw in the recess above the gear shift lever when full oil should drip from screw opening. All differentals for the shaft drive models use 90 wt gear oil. Maybe add a seperat adduem for shaft drive bikes

How about doing a quick write up on some g models have a separate place for just transmission oil.or something like that

**Anonymous** · 10-23-2002, 06:45 PM

You will want to use a torque wrench when putting the drain bolt back in. It is extremely easy to ruin the threads in the case.

Steve

**Anonymous** · 10-23-2002, 07:36 PM

Think you guys have covered this topic pretty well. Only thing I might add is that it is extremely important not to overfill the crankcase/trans. Too much will raise the oil pressure forcing oil past seals, gaskets and blowing it back through the vent into the airbox. I would regard the full mark as the absolute maximum.
Axel

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Which oil to use and how much?

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