$100 for a ____ing chain?! Or: Chain 101 please.

[Billy Ricks]

Go the Ebay route. Some sellers have sets of quality stuff like Vortex sprockets and Regina chain at great prices.

[IanFrancisco]

Be careful with the o-ring type

Most of these guys ride four-cylinder GS'es and may not have experience with the GS450's. No offense guys, but the man is looking for advice to go along with the copious amounts of humor on this thread. I may be wrong but I seem to recall reading somewhere that there is not enough room on the GS450 motor to install an o-ring or x-ring chain, that it is too wide to clear the engine cases and will grind metal off!! Definitely not desirable. I too need a new chain and sprockets for my bike (GS450ST) as it has developed a tight spot and has to be run loose or ugly grinding sounds happen. I have ordered a standard D.I.D. 530-104 (104 links of 530 chain) for $21 and change and the stock 15/45 sprockets as I am happy with the gearing. I figure if it lasts for 10k miles I'll be happy and I'll bet it'll last longer than that because it'll be me cleaning and maintaining it rather than the previous owner. A UK site I found thinks that the standard front sprocket is supposed to be a 16T for the GS450E and GS450S models, but my factory manual states otherwise and I have also read that a 16T won't fit on the front, but that may be wrong. If your bike is an L model I think the standard gearing is 15/43. The OE chain still on my bike at 14k miles is an endless type with a rivet-style master link. I ordered a standard clip-style master link. I don't think these little bikes put out enough power to really warrant hassling the rivet link. 530 chain is used on sportbikes with triple the power so it should be strong enough. Oh, and the site I ordered from is www.parts411.com which has an office 4 miles from my house so I avoid the shipping costs. Otherwise it would have been DennisKirk or BikeBandit or similar. Ok, now that I've stuck in my $0.02 of stick-in-the-mud advice you guys can resume your chain vs. shaft discussion. I think the G models have the Guzzis and Beemers beat for suspension geometry, at least you can roll on or off the throttle in corners without upsetting the handling as much as those other dinosaurs...

[duaneage]

I was able to get a 16T on a 450 I had years ago, I don't recall changing out the rear, i believe I added a link so the the chain adjuster would be correct. If you do change the gearing take note of where the chain adjustment marks end up with the new chain so that as it wears out you won't go too long or far out of adjustment.

Shafts rule.

Back to the shaft vs chain war :twisted:

[maparker]

Ian: Thanks for the advice....I was thinking the same thing in the back of my mind...that's why I put the line about the bike not being a "fire-breathing drag bike" or something like that in. If I can get 10k out of a $21 chain I will be MORE than happy, heck if I can get 3-5k i'll be tickled pink!

duaneage: Please feel free to resume the chain vs. shaft war!!! I'm enjoying that aspect of the thread just as much to be honest! Personally I've never ridden a shaft bike, closest I've ever come was a belt drive HD Dyna.... I remember thinking to myself "Hmm, when I twist the throttle to the stop shouldn't something more excting happen than me going deaf?"

[duaneage]

Ian is probably right about the chain width. Smaller twins like the Honda Hawk need to have the chain guards removed or modified for some "racing chains" because they rub, friend of mine tore his guard clear off of a cm400 because a shop used a wider, high performance type chain.

Chain and sprocket set should do ya. You really must replace the gears since they get fish hook profiles that don't work so good. Old sprockets destroy new chains.



Does the EPA fine you chain lovers for oiling the roadway?

[maparker]

Does the EPA fine you chain lovers for oiling the roadway?

You mean you have to OIL them!

Yeah and I'm sure a shafty has NEVER dribbled a little lube to mark its territory eh?

[duaneage]

We shaft riders don't need no stinkin' chain guards to keep our pant legs clean.

[Planecrazy]

AND ... our frames, side covers, shocks, rims, etc. stay nice and clean too!!

It is a rare thing for a shaftie to leak fluids from the final drive, but then it is rare for a shaftie to EVER have problems with the driveline!

On a serious note, I've had a '80 550L since 1989, and although I always enjoyed it I looked forward to replacing it with a shaftie. When that happened I never looked back, and the 550L will be available for sale sometime soon. First I have to put on the new chain and sprockets and give it a good cleanup! Interested parties are welcome to contact me for more info.

Regards,
Steve 8)

[maparker]

Thread wakeup and question for Ian

I have ordered a standard D.I.D. 530-104 (104 links of 530 chain) for $21 and change and the stock 15/45 sprockets as I am happy with the gearing. I figure if it lasts for 10k miles I'll be happy and I'll bet it'll last longer than that because it'll be me cleaning and maintaining it rather than the previous owner.

Hey Ian,

How did you make out with your chain and sprocket? I'm really anxious to know because on the way to work this morning my chain popped off when I downshift for a corner! I guess its now too stretched out to adjust anymore so I have to bite the bullet and get new sprockets and a chain. Jus wanted to know what you thought of your setup as I need to do this ASAP

Thanks Parker

[Ghostgs1]

Hey Ma, I hope you are getting that chain fixed soon. Are you still riding with it streched so much? Very dangerous to do so. Many years ago I broke the chain on my X6, did a fair amount of damage to the machine but luckily I was able to keep it upright as I stopped abruptly. Scarry experience that I wouldn't recommend. Ray

[Macmatic]

So whats a good chain lube? I don't really have any shops around here and I'm brand new to riding. The only local place I KNOW I can get chain lube is Wals_mart....which I hate going to but will if I have to. They have Champion brand spray lube in the MC 1/8 isle.

I DO have lots of other spray lubes of various types, PTFE, graphite, oils, waxes and coatings. What type of thing am I looking for out in the garage until I can get some real lube? O-ring chain by the way.

/\/\ac

[maparker]

Hey Ma, I hope you are getting that chain fixed soon. Are you still riding with it streched so much? Very dangerous to do so. Ray

Yeah, I figured that this was my warning to stop riding until I could get a new chain and sprockets. It happened only a few miles from home luckily so I got it back on and limped it home and there it'll stay 'til I get the new stuff on.


I also second Macmatic's question. For my bicycles I always used Triflo, but want to use what's best for the bike.

Thanks,
Mark

[IanFrancisco]

Re: Thread wakeup and question for Ian

I have ordered a standard D.I.D. 530-104 (104 links of 530 chain) for $21 and change and the stock 15/45 sprockets as I am happy with the gearing. I figure if it lasts for 10k miles I'll be happy and I'll bet it'll last longer than that because it'll be me cleaning and maintaining it rather than the previous owner.

Hey Ian,

How did you make out with your chain and sprocket? I'm really anxious to know because on the way to work this morning my chain popped off when I downshift for a corner! I guess its now too stretched out to adjust anymore so I have to bite the bullet and get new sprockets and a chain. Jus wanted to know what you thought of your setup as I need to do this ASAP

Thanks Parker

I got all the parts. Turned out the chain was $27 instead of $21 but oh well. I haven't installed it yet. It hasn't got to the point where I can't tighten it up any more. I can still overtighten it and have to be careful to adjust it when it's at its tightest spot. You'll need a chain breaker if you have the OE endless chain still on there and a big socket or wrench to fit the nut holding the engine sprocket on. Not exactly sure what size, it might be in the OE toolkit if you have that. If you don't have those tools you can probably break the chain with a dremel or a grinder or a file if that's all you have and maybe get a big crescent wrench on the sprocket nut. I also would get a $10 hand impact wrench to get the Phillips heads off the front sprocket cover and replace them with Allens (hex heads). When I replaced the rear tire I had to put a 2X4 under the centerstand to get enough height to get the rear wheel out. Be safe! Block the front wheel to keep the bike from rolling forward off the centerstand. I also had to remove both shocks and loosen the right side chrome bracket holding up the exhausts and rear footpegs to get enough clearance to drop the swing arm low enough to get the axle out. Don't forget to undo the brake locating arm and actuating rod. Be sure to notice how the spacers and rear brake all go together so you can get them back together the same way!! After that extra hassle getting the axle out it was fairly easy to get the chain off the rear sprocket and get the wheel out. The rear sprocket and cush drive will just fall off the wheel once it's out. Be sure to use locktite or some kind of lock washers on the nuts holding the rear sprocket onto the cush drive. You don't want those coming loose while riding!!! Getting it all back together was a wrestling match trying to hold up the weight of the rear wheel and swingarm with one hand and slipping the axle in with the other. That would go much easier if you get some help. If you get an old school clip-style master link instead of the rivet-link things willl be much easier next time. Some guys who do lots of commuting miles will only replace their sprockets every other chain and with a clip-style master link you can remove and replace the chain without even dropping the rear wheel out.

Replacing the rear tire was about a 4-hour job but I saved money on labor and had the satisfaction of knowing it was done carefully. So far I have not had to pay a dime for labor on my bike. Good thing cause I've managed to spend over $600 on parts and accessories!

If you have never done anything like this plan on taking a full day or even two days to get it done and realize ahead of time that one stripped Phillips head can seriously impede your progress. Be patient and work slowly and carefully. Stop and clean your hands and grab a cig or a beer and stand back and take a few deep breaths from time to time. Give your bike some love and you'll be the proud owner with dirt on his hands when it's all back together and running better than ever.

[IanFrancisco]

So whats a good chain lube? I don't really have any shops around here and I'm brand new to riding. The only local place I KNOW I can get chain lube is Wals_mart....which I hate going to but will if I have to. They have Champion brand spray lube in the MC 1/8 isle.

I DO have lots of other spray lubes of various types, PTFE, graphite, oils, waxes and coatings. What type of thing am I looking for out in the garage until I can get some real lube? O-ring chain by the way.

/\/\ac

O-ring chains aren't supposed to need lube (yah right). I've read about some guys just putting a little 30wt. engine oil on a rag and wiping their o-ring chains down with that. I use a product called Chain Wax. It has lube and parrafin. Smells funky but you spray it on and wait 15 minutes for it to dry. Throws less grunge around than plain oil/lube. I just have the regular OE chain on the bike.

[bradleymaynar]

You can get hammer-type impacts at Harbor Freight Tools for around $6, and if you go with a clip master link, make sure you put the clip on so that it is being held on with the rotation of the chain. I had a clip come off my chain last summer because I installed it backwards! Now, mind you, this was on an 1100, but I think the precaution is warranted. Also, the front sprocket nut size is 32mm on the 1100, I'm sure yours is smaller, and you may want to see if you can find someone with an air impact to tighten it for you. Mine had the tendency to loosen up (after riding) when I would use the hammer impact to tighten it.

Brad tt