Need Advice on Starting Issues with cleaned Carb.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

You can't take plug reads when choking is involved. With choke, the plugs will always look rich. Also, I can't tell for sure, looks like burning oil? The black is kind of shiny? Oil won't evaporate or dry either. This will weaken the spark and cause very poor performance. All 4 like this?
As for the vacuum, just be sure the vacuum line is plugged if you're using a remote reservoir. The reservoir must be vented too.
If using the tank, connect the vacuum correctly to #2 carb.
You must bench synch the throttle valves before doing a vacuum tool synch. AT LEAST do the bench synch. The throttle valves (butterflys) must open/close uniformly. Check out a manual or the CV carb rebuild section here.

[countzen]

I think the plug looks shiny becuase I tried to clean them off first, before remembering to take a pic.

It wasn oily or shiny when i took it out.

Well, I didn't remove the throttle and it seems ok, but I still don't know what a Bench Synch is. I tried googling it, but i get nothing useful. (I tried this site.)

Anyway thanks for all the info.

Any other ideas? (I'll try to find more info on Bench SYnching in the mean time.)

[countzen]

Argh!!

I have been doing some research and I think a big part of the problem is I didn't clean out the carb properly.

So I decided to start over: tonight i took the carburetor out again and now the 4 carbs are lying on my bench.

I already found couple of problems: last time I didn't take the 4 cabrs apart to clean it-- this time I did. And I noticed that the one of the vent connector (between 3 and 4) is jammed!! sealed!!

And some of the O-rings on the fuel line immediatly fell apart on removal.

Ahh well, back to few more weekends of this.

[jtcrespo]

Oh, and anyone got an idea what this is?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/countzen/62203983/

That is the grommet that the tank bolt goes through, part #11 in this schematic.

http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/assets/schematics/Suzuki/SU0094_037.gif

[countzen]

Thanks!

[DimitriT]

Hmmm...

recently went through this with my own overhaul. Here's the causes I ran into:

* fuel delivery - do you have an external test tank for your testing? If not get one - you can't work on the bike with the tank on

* seal up the vacume nozzle on #2 if you are running without the tank. Note that if you run for a while without the tank and the bowls drain and then you attach the tank, it will take a while for the boals to refill with the switch set to PRI. If the petcock is set to ON it will take ever longer as you have to keep cranking it to get the valve open long enough for enough fuel to flow. The way I sealed the nozzle: I cut a short length of hose and jammed a think fastening screw into the open end - this was my improvised plug.

* bench sync - do a search for "bench sync" and follow the procedure - but to me this sounds like not enough fuel in carbs.

* float levels - check the floats and make sure they are all to spec - the PO may have mucked with these in some attempt to fix a rich condition - just cause there's fuel in the bowls doesn't mean there enough for it to run

* check idle jet - the idle jet has a microscopic opening which must be clear. Do the idle jet plugs fit snug or are they loose?

* idle mixture screws - start them off at 2 1/2 turns out. But note that some carbs require more turns. On my carbs #1 required an extra turn to run properly while #3 and #4 required about 1 turn only. The PO may have torqued the screws down at some point in an attempt to correct a problem and could have deformed the screw or the channel.

Also when doing this work I first installed an inline fuel filter and kept it attached to the carbs. It made me feel good to know there was a barrier to dust or dirt which could get in there as I dis/connect fuel tanks. The tiniest piece of dirt will cause trouble.