Clutch question...GS700es

[Brandon]

I bought my GS a month or two back, the tire was flat, but it started right up, so I didn't ride it, and for the money, I wasn't worried about it.

As with all "running when parked" vehicles, I suspected it had something wrong.

So I got to tinker with it finally, and it started right up, but the clutch isn't working right. I adjusted the cable out and it feels like it should work when I pull on the lever, (No binding, plenty of tension etc.), but when I start the bike in neutral, pull in the clutch and click it into first it just grabs and stalls.

It got dark, so I've stopped until tomorrow.

What could be causing this, and what should I look for?

Thanks!

[Macmatic]

Try putting the bike in first gear with the engine off and seeing if you can spin the rear tire with the clutch pulled in. It might be harder than in neutral but you should be able to turn it. If you can't check the clutch play and make sure its working correctly, try over adusting if you arn't sure.

Can you describe better how it dies out? Its it sudden like the tranny is locked? And is the engine warmed up? My GS750 will die out if I put it in first cold even with the clutch all the way it.

I'm sure others will have better ideas for you but I thought I'd get my $.02 in early.

/\/\ac

[Brandon]

Thanks.


I had it fairly warm, the tire is still flat so it's still pretty stationary.

When I got it, the cable had a ton of slack in it. It was loose, and squeezing on the lever took up the slack, and just barely pulled at the end of the pull. Like it was just barely catching.

I made the clutch cable housing longer with the adjusters at the lever and at the engine to take up the slack. Now it has tension all the way through, but if I put it in first and try to push it around with the clutch pulled, it's moving everything like it's in gear. Starting it in first with the clutch pulled moves the bike like it's in gear and the clutch is out.

Putting it in first while the engine is running, is like doing a neutral drop, it just goes forward as soon as the gear selector is moved into first. The clutch isn't working.

I guess I'm wondering if there is something on the other end of the clutch to check...does it have a throwout rod or something?

I have a factory service manual, but it's pretty spread out on procedures. Disassembly is in the front of the book, reassembly is in another area, and the cable is in another chapter, and very unclear.
I guess I need a repair manual...

Also, if I take the side cover off, is there engine oil behind it? Do I have to drain the oil, or does it have it's own oil like a primary on other bikes?

Any help would be great.

Thanks.

[Macmatic]

Yeah, engine oil is behind the clutch cover. You'll see a sight glass near the bottom for checking the oil level.

It sounds like you might have stuck clutch plates... make sure you've GOT oil via the sight glass (my '84 had none when I got it...which the PO never mentioned), it should be about halfway up the window when the bike is on the centerstand.

Since you've got the manual its really no big deal to drain it and pull the clutch cover and check on your clutch plates. Mine were stuck together but I was able to break them apart by running it in gear on the ceterstand (watch where you balance!) and hitting the brake with the clutch pulled in. Popped free right away.

/\/\ac

[Brandon]

Okay...so if I run it on the center stand, and the plates unstick, will my previously adjusting the cable housing do any harm? Should I loosen it up first?

I'll give it a try in the morning.

If no luck, I'll drain the oil and check it out. Probably due for an oil change anyways.

[Macmatic]

Okay...so if I run it on the center stand, and the plates unstick, will my previously adjusting the cable housing do any harm? Should I loosen it up first?

I'll give it a try in the morning.

If no luck, I'll drain the oil and check it out. Probably due for an oil change anyways.

I don't think it'll do any harm. If the plates unstick you might find it overadjusted so you never really have full lockup. Or not.

If you end up pulling the clutch cover get a gasket first or some gasket material. I made one for mine but I think they only go for around $10.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

/\/\ac

[Brandon]

Well, I ran it on the center stand today in first. It's still stuck. I revved it up, and held the brake. I started it in gear and held the clutch, it's still locked up.

I guess I'll have to hunt for a gasket and an oil filter. There isn't a Suzuki shop near me.

Anything I should look for when removing the cover? What should I look for in the plates?

What is a ballpark figure on a new clutch?

Thanks.

[luc8421]

I got Clutch Factory disks and steels, and suzuki springs for $108. just go to bikebandit.com and order your springs and clutch gasket for about $20, then go to any suzuki dealer or motorcycle shop and they can usually get you your clutch parts. I think I found my oil filter at GI joes, it's not an uncommon filter IF the place your at sells motorcycle filters. you can also take the right rear cover off (the one the clutch cable goes into) and check your clutch pushrod and cable mechanism, something might be stuck or broken there. good time to check your front sproket condition as well without having to draining any oil or replace any gaskets.

[Macmatic]

Well, I ran it on the center stand today in first. It's still stuck. I revved it up, and held the brake. I started it in gear and held the clutch, it's still locked up.

I guess I'll have to hunt for a gasket and an oil filter. There isn't a Suzuki shop near me.

Anything I should look for when removing the cover? What should I look for in the plates?

What is a ballpark figure on a new clutch?

Thanks.

I'm not quite clear on this. Did you start it, rev it in gear and then hit the brake with the clutch pulled in?

Luc had some good ideas but you should be able to get an oil filter most anyplace. Ever autoparts store I've checked has them in stock. I've got a Purolator in my bike right now. Sorry I don't have more but I just put my first 5mi on my first GS this afternoon...been working on it all summer though.

/\/\ac

[Brandon]

The clutch was out.

Thanks for the help. I'll keep you guys posted. I live in an apartment, and they frown on working on things, so my time I can tinker with it is very limited. If I can get it to run right, I can limp it over to my work and mess with it there.

[Billy Ricks]

There is also an adjustment that needs to be made under the small cover on the countershaft sprocket cover. It's held on by two philips head screws. Under that cover you'll find a slotted screw with a locknut on it. First you need to have lots of slack in the cable. Then loosen the locknut on the adjustment screw. Turn the screw until it lightly seats then back off 1/4 turn. Retighten the locknut and then adjust the cable so you end up with about a 1/8" gap between the lever and the perch at the handlebar.

[Macmatic]

Good call. I knew I was forgetting something basic there.

/\/\ac

[Brandon]

It's been a while since my last post about this, but my time is limited in the garage these days...

If you don't rmember, my bike is seemingly stuck in gear, or the clutch will not disengage properly.

So I finally got a day to mess with it. I adjusted the cable properly....nothing. I pulled the side cover off and inspected the clutch basket. When I pulled the lever, the discs and assembly moved about 8mm or so. There was movement, it looked fine to me, but I'm not an expert.

I pulled the spark plugs like a friend suggested and when I tried to turn the wheel, it moved a little and stopped dead. It wouldnot spin the motor as my friend said it would if it was a clutch related problem. I pushed the other way, and it freewheeled a few inches and stopped dead. back and forth roll just a bit and stop cold.

I held the lever in, and separated the discs a little with a flat blade screwdriver. They were sticky, but they came a apart. So, I unbolted the four bolts and pulled the discs out. They didn't appear to be drastically wrong...

Here's where I get concerned. When I turned the inner basket cup, it moves freely for almost a quarter of a turn, and then catches and the rear wheel turns. Is this amount of movement normal? I'm pretty sure it's the same amount of freeplay I was experiencing when I rolled the back tire with the plugs out..

If not,
What in the gear box could have malfunctioned to make it stuck?
How do I fix it?


Thanks for any info,

[Billy Ricks]

Did you try the adjustment I described above?

[Brandon]

Yes I did, that was part of my "adjusted the cable properly" part....no luck.

Am I right in assuming that in order to make any changes to the gear box I'll basically need to break the entire engine down?