Topend rebuild complete.....now for the questions :)

[duaneage]

If running on PRI does not solve the problem a Pringle valve won't either. I suspect you have problems with the bowl levels. How about the fuel vent tubes? Remove the two fuel vent hoses from the carbs and see how it goes.

[Chris Daniel]

Well, the weather turned to crap around here untill next week. SO I am going to do some testing in the garage and see what I can come up with.

Is there any way to check the float levels while on the bike?

I was going to check that, check to see if the petcock flows good in prime into a jar or something. I was also going to put new fuel line and vacuum line on the petcock.

I was going to test the coils with a multimeter and see what happens, check the plug wires and plugs.

Hopefully I will run across something.

Would the petcock have anything to do with the problem I am having of the bike dying after running high speed for extended periods of time then letting off the throttle? As long as I have the throttle open it will keep on trucking, as soon as I let off the throttle it dies (just like it runs out of gas) if I just let it coast down with the clutch out it will eventually buck 4 or 5 times then pick up and go. If I pull the clutch in and coast to a stop, it will take a good 15 minutes of sitting and cranking to get it to start again.

I was thinking the petcock was actually closing due to no vacuum, that was originally why I wanted a Pingle. However, if none of this is the fault of the stock petcock, then I will put it off untill I have a little extra money. Also, can I pull the petcock off the tank without disturbing the O-ring or am I going to have to get a new one if I take the petcock off?

Anyway, the more I investigate and think about it, it seems more fuel related than anything else. However, I am still going to check the electrical side to make sure.

Thanks again.

BTW, I removed the vent tubes not long after getting the bike.

[duaneage]

YOu need to get into the carbs. Winter is a good time for that. Spend you money on the carb kits and a berryman's cleaning can.

Anything else and your dancing around the real problem.

[Chris Daniel]

Best place to get a carb kit?

My wife will be pleased, she loves it when my projects find their way into the house, on the coffee table, the bar, the kitchen table HHAHHAHA.

Anyway, I will tear into them and clean them up, whether it solves the problem or not......it still needs to be done.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

As for the petcock, when it's on prime, that by-passes any faulty diaphragm. So if it's known to be clean (inspected) the petcock WILL flow freely and the correct amount.
The vacuum line is connected to carb #2, correct?
I always suggest a new o-ring if the petcock is removed from the tank but you may get away with it? Depends on how supple the o-ring is.
As for your problem of stalling after closing the throttle after a high speed run, I'm not sure what it is. I do know that backing off the throttle from full throttle creates a temporary/momentary rich condition but this richer condition shouldn't have a long enough effect to cause a stall? Not sure, though it could depend on just how rich it really is. With a sudden change in rpm under high speed conditions, the plugs could glaze over (flashing) and interrupt good spark. Trying to re-start the bike up to 15 minutes could allow raw fuel to clean the plugs and the bike would eventually start again. But I'm just thinking out loud. Funny thing is that you seem to have a fuel flow problem (lack of), that would seem to contradict a rich condition causing the stalling.
I've seen other bikes stall after a high speed run, even a fuel injected Speed Triple, and it always seems to be worse when the motor is hot, suggesting a rich condition because as the motor heats up it runs under a richer condition. All I can say is all basics would have to be checked and verified related to fuel flow, which is a lot of things to check. When something gets to the point of driving you crazy, you just have to go and check everything to be able to eliminate it as a possibility.
Also, check for correct ignition timing with a gun, while you're checking basics.
And I know you say you didn't touch the mixture screws, but where are they set? Should be around 2-3 turns out for your mods.

[Chris Daniel]

Yes, the vacuum line is connected to the number 2 carb.
The factory emission caps are still on the mixture screws, if they are still at the factory setting.....I would assume that would be far too lean?

As for the stalling. The rich condition does make sense, as it acts just like a carbuerated car that has been flooded (once it does start it is real slow to actually pick up speed, and it takes a minute to "clean out" before it has any response).

I will check the fuel flow out of the petcock with it set on PRIME, if it is flowing a good amount of fuel I will call it good for the time being (I may still order a Pingle just so I can have a manual petcock .

Either way I have some time, due to the weather for the next week or so, to mess with it. Hopefully I will find something that just jumps out at me as the cause.

I will keep yall posted as to what I can find.

Thanks again.

[toymechanic.]

While you had the carbs off did you keep them upright. Reason being is if you turned them upside down, dirt can get into the passage ways.

Your problem to me sounds like main jet or too low of float level. With everything new in the engine it has better vacuum so it needs more fuel. A bigger main jet or cleaner main jet passages are in order. Pull the carb's off and without turning them upside down remove the bowls. Remove the diaphram slides, then remove the main jet and washer. The part that the main jet screws into need to be removed also. Carefully use a 1/4" socket extension to push up on it(there is a pin that keeps it from spinning, make sure that one of the flats of the 1/4" extension is facing the pin). Once you have these items removed, if you have discovered dirt anywhere, you need to completely disassemble the carb's and soak them in Berryman carb cleaner(as per the directions on the can). Then assemble them with new carb kits.

If you are uncomfortable doing the carb's, I'll walk you though it. They are easy to work on. barefooter1960@yahoo.com

Good luck,

Gary the Toymechanic

[Chris Daniel]

I hopefully will be able to do a rebuild on the carbs this weekend/next week.

Also, where is the best place to get a carb rebuild kit (assuming this is just gaskets?)?

I will definatly let you know if I need any help.

Thanks again.