I COULD USE SOME ADVICE(1983 gs1100e

[Anonymous]

Last week i started to see the warning lights all go on at the same time but only intermittently. I assumed a short in the battery. i charged the battery and the freshly charged battery failed the light load test miserably so i replaced it. the warning lights still all flash on intermittently at exactly the same time((only the red lights)). i am starting from the front of the bike to check the wiring but i finally woke up and said to my self "HEY DUMMY ASK THE GANG ON THE WEBSITE FOR HELP" So any advice or help please

[Billy Ricks]

Scotty,
I'm not real sure about your 110, but my 700 instrument panel should be similar. If so the red lights are side stand and oil pressure lights. You should have an orange wire if it is like mine providing positive current to each bulb. Then a green/yellow ground runs to the oil pressure switch and green/white ground to the side stand switch. The wiring diagram for my bike shows a diode located in the circuit for the side stand switch on the ground side. That diode has the green/yellow wire on one side and the green/white on the other. It's possible that diode is the root of your problem.

[Anonymous]

Just a thought, on the '80' & '81' 1100 E's if the oil pressure was lost, all the warning lights came on. Check the connection on the oil pressure switch, and also the oil level. If the oil gets a little low, when brakeing, the oil rushes to the front of the oil pan, away from the oil pick-up causing momentary loss of pressure, thus warning lights flashing on.

[Anonymous]

Just a thought, on the '80' & '81' 1100 E's if the oil pressure was lost, all the warning lights came on. Check the connection on the oil pressure switch, and also the oil level. If the oil gets a little low, when brakeing, the oil rushes to the front of the oil pan, away from the oil pick-up causing momentary loss of pressure, thus warning lights flashing on.

[Anonymous]

Just a thought, on the '80' & '81' 1100 E's if the oil pressure was lost, all the warning lights came on. Check the connection on the oil pressure switch, and also the oil level. If the oil gets a little low, when brakeing, the oil rushes to the front of the oil pan, away from the oil pick-up causing momentary loss of pressure, thus warning lights flashing on.

Thanks all for the help--I misplaced my shopmanual and am in trouble-i will check all items today--it must be something that makes ALL the lights come on at the same time???

[Anonymous]

Being as it's that time of year, it sounds like it has become possessed :twisted: Just kidding Scotty. If all the lights come on it would almost have to be attributed to a faulty ground I would think. Does it act like you just turned the key on before starting it? Bob

[Anonymous]

Being as it's that time of year, it sounds like it has become possessed :twisted: Just kidding Scotty. If all the lights come on it would almost have to be attributed to a faulty ground I would think. Does it act like you just turned the key on before starting it? Bob

yes thats a perfect description--red lights only go on

[Anonymous]

Being as it's that time of year, it sounds like it has become possessed :twisted: Just kidding Scotty. If all the lights come on it would almost have to be attributed to a faulty ground I would think. Does it act like you just turned the key on before starting it? Bob

yes thats a perfect description--red lights only go on

[Anonymous]

Just a thought, on the '80' & '81' 1100 E's if the oil pressure was lost, all the warning lights came on. Check the connection on the oil pressure switch, and also the oil level. If the oil gets a little low, when brakeing, the oil rushes to the front of the oil pan, away from the oil pick-up causing momentary loss of pressure, thus warning lights flashing on.

I wonder if thats true on the 1983 model--You have keyed a thought--First I have checked the wire to the pressure switch and it seems ok.
Well on the item of all the lights going on if oil pressure is lost--i had just left my pingel on over night and thought that gas didnt leak into the crancase but on closer examination i see the oil inspection glass is full even on the side stand--tomorrow i will change the oil--perhaps it was diluted to the point that it needs rpm to get the pressure up enough to keep the lights off. I also remember the symptom showing up much more when the bike was just warming up and i use 5-50 oil in it--maybe the mystery will be solved. I started in the headlight yesterday and will work my way from the warning light box later in the week if the new oil doesnt do it. Then i dont know where the diode is Billy --i couldnt see it on my schematic--help me to locate it please.THANKS ALL AGAIN

[Billy Ricks]

My schematic just shows it between the two wires I showed above. It's probably on the instrument panel somewhere. I don't run GS guages anymore or I would take mine apart to find it.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Just changed my oil today. 1800 mi used 1/4 pint of oil. Put in Torco 20-50. Anyone ever used Torco 4-cycle M/C oil?? I have been lucky my rebuilt petcock has been working just fine.

[Anonymous]

Just a thought, on the '80' & '81' 1100 E's if the oil pressure was lost, all the warning lights came on. Check the connection on the oil pressure switch, and also the oil level. If the oil gets a little low, when brakeing, the oil rushes to the front of the oil pan, away from the oil pick-up causing momentary loss of pressure, thus warning lights flashing on.

I wonder if thats true on the 1983 model--You have keyed a thought--First I have checked the wire to the pressure switch and it seems ok.
Well on the item of all the lights going on if oil pressure is lost--i had just left my pingel on over night and thought that gas didnt leak into the crancase but on closer examination i see the oil inspection glass is full even on the side stand--tomorrow i will change the oil--perhaps it was diluted to the point that it needs rpm to get the pressure up enough to keep the lights off. I also remember the symptom showing up much more when the bike was just warming up and i use 5-50 oil in it--maybe the mystery will be solved. I started in the headlight yesterday and will work my way from the warning light box later in the week if the new oil doesnt do it. Then i dont know where the diode is Billy --i couldnt see it on my schematic--help me to locate it please.THANKS ALL AGAIN

HEY RPHILIPS
I just changed the oil and no more idiot lights coming on - I will take it for a ride in a while after i top it of and see if indeed that was the trouble---
I have spoken to a couple of mechanics and they did not know of this feature. WE NEED TO VERIFY IT IF ANYONE HAS ADDITIONAL INFO ON IT. I will report again after my test ride just to be sure i have not been pre mature in my report. I would never have guessed that on and my wiring system would have gotten some extra maintenance.

[Anonymous]

This is the first time i ever remember solving what looked like an electrical problem by changing my oil-- the idiot lights never came on once ic the 40 miles that i just rode
BUT THIS GAVE ME AN OPORTUNITY TO ONCE AGAIN COMPARE ENGINE TEMP, TRANSMISSION SHIFTING AND CLUTCH OPERATION BETWEEN DYNO AND SYNTHETIC OIL.
I NORMALLY USE 5-50 SYNTEC OR 15-50 MONILE 1--I HAD A CASE OF 20-50 DYNO OIL SO I USED IT FOR THIS OIL CHANGE.
IMIDIAYELY I NOICED HOW THE TRANSMISSION HESITATES WHEN SHIFTING INTO FIRST OR BACK TO NEUTRAL DURING WARMUPS.
WHEN I WAS USING SYNTHETIC THE OIL TEMP WAS RUNNING AT 160 OR A HAIR ABOVE SINCE THE SUMMER HEAT LEFT. NOW ON THE DYNO OIL, THE TEMP WAS AT 210 AND A HAIR OVER. THATS SOME DIFERENCE AND WE SHOULD ALLOW FOR A POSIBELE 10 DEGREE OUTSIDE AIR TEMP DIFERENCE. IT STILL COMES TO RUNNING MUCH HOTTER ON DYNO OIL