1100G rebuild time - what to do and not to do

[Ronan]

Folks,

I'd really appreciate some words of wisdom if you don't mind...

I have a 1982 GS 1100 G. It was last restored before I owned it, so it's quite some time back (8+ years). At this stage I have put down enough miles and there's enough problems to justify a another small rebuild. This is en every day bike, winter or summer, which is ridden relatively hard. So I can't afford to have it off the road for long.

Right now it's on after market coils, K&N filter, Dyno Stage 1, Vance & Hines 4-1. Other than that the engine side of things is pretty stock.

There are a few main problems - it's a very oil thirsty bike. Some of the oil is being burnt, some is leaking. 1l of 10w40 for 750 miles would not be unusual, it really depends how hard I drive it. Those behind me usually smell oil when I drive on. Another big thing I want to fix is the clutch - of the 6 springs on the back of the clutch basket, the 3 smaller ones are pretty much shot. So the clutch rattles like a tank right the way through the engine.

It was suggested to me that I get a 'big block'. However I've spoken to the good people at APE and it seems there isn't a suitable block for my GS (keeping in mind this is a street bike). So I guess a rebore is called for. I'm not 100% sure what the standard bore on the bike is (it's stock), but I was told that the Wiseco 73.5mm will suit it, with 10.25:1 compression. Has anyone done this? Or what pistons would you suggest?

With regard to the clutch, unfortunately there is nobody near me (i.e. Ireland) who seems to be able to re-do the springs. Anyone I've spoken to says it's too small for them. So I decided to look for after-market clutch baskets. Barnett don't do one, and for Falicon or MTC I think I have to send my existing clutch to the US (not an option as I'd be off the road for too long). If I'm to have to spend money on a replacement one I'd rather it be better rather than just the same as I have at the moment but without a rattle. Can anyone recommend a full replacement clutch basket, or another approach which might not take an age?

Beyond that, the other things I am thinking of doing just for good measure are:

New cam chain
New cam chain tensioner
Upgrade brakes (to gsxr or something similar)

Is there anything else I should be doing while I have the engine open and the bike off the road?

...all worth it to keep such a fantastic bike on the road!

Cheers,

Ronan

[IanFrancisco]

Use the search feature here. Plenty of info in old posts available. As for the clutch basket, I would keep the stock one unless it's completely worn out and replace the plates if needed and the springs, which should be available online somewhere. I just read about someone using ford escort valve springs for replacement clutch springs but I don't know if I would try that. I've heard that the Barnett clutches tend to drag when temps rise. Maybe some washers under the exisiting springs would increase tension enough. I'm not a GS1100 expert but you came to the right place for the info. If you don't get more replies use the search feature. Loads of rebuild info here...

[Ronan]

Hi Ian,

Thanks for the reply.

What I meant with the clutch was the springs on the back of the basket, set sideways in the gear at the clutch. I don't see how these are serviceable and non of my local engineering companies will touch it.

Cheers,

Ronan

[Doctor Shifty]

Try a search with these words - make sure the AND is capitals.

clutch AND basket AND springs

There are lots of forum topics on clutch rattle, and a common affirmation is that the rattle is not a big issue for most bikes. The cushion springs soften and the rivets loosen, but as long as neither gets too drastic the bike copes well enough.

Kim

[Ronan]

Thanks. I'll have a look!

I know it's not going to cause any harm. It's been there for years. I just want to get rid of it :-) Especially if I'm cracking her open.

[RacingJake]

They do sell a rebuild kit for clutches, don't know about your model but maybe they are the same.

http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=328398&showprevnext=1

As for buring oil I'd do a compression check first and if it's 130 to 170 you should be fine. Then I'd remove the exhaust pipe's and look in the ports and see if there's a trail or oil stain from the valve stem leading down to the outlet. Good sign it's time for seal or guides.

Maybe just a hone, new rings, valve seals and a clutch rebuild kit will get you back on the road quick.

[duaneage]

Alway check the compression pressures to at least know what your getting into. Use some ATF in each cylinder to see if the pressures increase or not. If they do, rings are leaking. If they don't valves.

Since your prepared for new rings tht should not bother you but if the valves were reground before as you meantioned a rebuild was done, then you might not have enough to regrind them again. Depends on what is left.

Another set of valves might be expensive, I would consider another head that did nt have a valve job ever done to it as a good starting point. If you go that route you can have the headwork started before the teardown and even have some porting work done. shops can be slow to get work done on a take oout basis, just ask Hoomgar about his project 1K