"New" 79' GS1000E w/ some issues

[Mgriz]

Hello all. Since this is my first post here I guess Ill introduce myself. Name is Marc and I've been lurking here for a month or so while searching for a bike. I purchased a 79' GS1000E this past tuesday, its has 55k miles on it, K&N type pods, yoshi 4 into 1 pipe, stainless brake lines, cafe bars, and otherwise stock.



I got a good deal including a boat load of spare parts the previous owner had collected over the years, including a complete extra engine. Drove it home (about 50 miles mixed roads) and it ran great save for the dead battery. Previous owner was a automotive mechanic and seemingly took very good care of the bike. However, after it sitting for 3 days while I purchased another battery it is not running right at all. The first start after sitting there was some white smoke and a little black smoke when I gave it some throttle. It was also running on only 3 cylinders and popping/caughing a lot. I pulled the plugs and found that they are all nice and sooty black, all dry with the exception of #3 as shown below (4,3,2,1 left to right). The plugs are a mixture of the standard temp NGKs and DENSOs.



Close up of #3



Now I have little experience with carbs but I would say in general its running rich but I don't know whats going on with #3. The previous owner said that he did rejet w/ the pods but he did not recal what he did, only that he went to big on the main jets and it was running a little rich. He also said he last adjusted the valve clearence about 20-25k miles ago. I dont really know where to start. I cleaned the plugs, checked the spark, all cylinders were fine from what I could tell but it still fouled #3 on startup. I have ordered new plugs, any suggestions on what this might be. Thanks in advance.

[SqDancerLynn1]

First check and make sure the petcock is working correctly The 79 model has slide type carbs & the vacuum for the petcock hooks to the #3 carb
Check for fuel in the petcock vacuum line

[KEITH KRAUSE]

If your worst problem is the #3 fouling, then it could be a leaking petcock as Lynn said. To find out, clean/gap the plug or replace and turn the petcock to prime position. Test. If the fouling stops, then you need to rebuild/replace the petcock. That would fix that problem.
If it doesn't help, then it looks top me that plug is possibly oil fouled? Is it sticky? Will the shine evaporate and look like the other plugs after drying? If it stays looking like that, it's oil fouled. You say you get some white smoke and there's a good chance that's the #3 cylinder with a bad ring or valve seal? If so, you must repair the part leaking oil.
As for the other plug reads, they suggest rich mixtures and/or weak spark.
I'm not sure of your skills, but I would give the bike a complete check because it probably needs it. I'm not saying it's easy, but it may save time from trying to fix and test things one at a time. It's just basics.
If you can, get a compression check. Compression must be acceptable.
Check/adjust valve clearances EXACTLY according to Suzuki factory manual. That procedure is at this site.
Clean all electrical connections, treat and tighten. Especially the coil terminals, plug leads checked for cracks and plug caps. Replace battery.
Get NGK B8ES plugs and gap.
If you still have points, check/clean/replace and set dwell and timing. If newer ignition, check timing and action.
Inspect carbs. Clean and replace o-rings, check float levels and bench synch the slides as found here also.
If you didn't see any fuel leaking from the carbs anywhere, the float valves are probably good and you may just need the gaskets/o-rings as I said.
I suggest new manifold o-rings while the carbs are off, inspect manifolds too.
Be sure filters are clean and oiled if they are the type that requires oiling. Use filter oil only.
I suggest a new 5/16" fuel line and new vacuum line.
Be sure the two floatbowl lines are removed and the ports left open.
As a starting point, set the side air screws out to 1 3/4 turns. Set the pilot fuel screws (underneath) out to 1 1/2 turns.
As for if the bike was re-jetted correctly, I can only say test first at full, 1/3 and minimal throttle positions to see what each jetting circuit is doing.
If all the above is done, the bike should start up.
You would then warm it up completely and then set the side air screws for highest idle first. Re-set idle to 1,000 rpm with the idle adjuster knob.
You then must synch the carbs with a vacuum tool to accurately read the plugs and to gauge performance.
If it gets down to just re-jetting correctly, let us know the plug colors/performance and we'll set you up right.
Be aware the bike may still have the stock jet needles in and to get it right you may have to install a jet kit. If those filters are not K&N's then there's a better chance the stock jet needles will work and you can just adjust the needles and change main jets to get what you want.

[rek]

last reply took care of most things. the local advance auto has my NGK B8ES in stock @ $1.46 ea.
also a carb part source that is local is motorcyclecarbs.com. they are located up the road in Kennesaw.
my # 3 fouled a couple times and it was the petcock. it leaks all the time now. i just ordered a manual type from Z1 enterprises that was about 30 bucks including adapter. the same one fits my KZ so i think i am going to take the ZUK down for the winter to perform some much needed upgrades and maint. i'll ride the Z till then.
welcome to the GS club. my KZ is nice but just does not have the comfort and all around good manners of my GS1000.

[Mgriz]

Thanks for all the replies, this place sure is a wealth of knowledge. When I get some spare time Ill start going through the bike, Im hoping its the petcock . Thanks again

[Mgriz]

So I haven't had time to fiddle around with everything yet, but I did notice that fuel was leaking directly out of the petcock and dripping on the ground. Id say this is a good sign that the petcock needs some work. Think this could be directly related to my fouling problem? How well do the petock repair kits work, I've read that they solve about 80% of petcock problems, should I not risk wasting the money and just get an aftermarket petcock?

[jtcrespo]

Assuming you are actually in Decatur, GA,

I'm not necessarily a wealth of knowledge, but I can figure things out pretty well.

Anyway, you can send me a PM if you need any help. I work in Buckhead.

[Mgriz]

jtcrespo, I am actually in Decatur, off of Clairemont near the VA. I appreciate the offer, I'll keep that in mind when I get the time to start sorting everything out.

[Mgriz]

So I had some time to fiddle around with the bike and it seems things have just gotten worse. I replaced the fuel line, threw in some shiney NGK B8ESs, pluged the vacuum line from #3, and tried to start it with the petcock on prime. It started up but did not sound good at all... popping, coughing, etc. Pulled the plugs and now 1 and 3 are wet.

I checked the spark with the clean plugs... Spark was white for each cylinder but not very intense (bright). It also seemed that it was not very consistent, the arc jumped all over the ground strap, I dont know if this is a big problem but overall the spark didnt look very good.

So I guess my next action will be to check and clean up all the electrical connections and also take a look at the points.

On a sde note, I started going through some of the boxes of parts I found parts of a DYNA-S ignition system. All I found is shown in the picture below:



What else do I need to run this system?

[SqDancerLynn1]

The Dyna S is a self contained ign hooks to the battery & to the coils
You do need the dyna rotor, I believe you can buy them seperate from Dyna

[KEITH KRAUSE]

With the info provided, it's hard to say what's wrong. Could be a combination of several things.
Dirty carbs, weak spark, poor compression, etc, can cause your problem(s).
I realize you may not be able to do some of the work/checks I first described . Do what you can, such as cleaning/checking the connectors, set the fuel screws...
I really think the compression needs to be checked first because that plug looks oily to me. Poor compression won't allow the bike to run right no matter what else you do.
That's a pretty old Dyna S sensors and plate. Has their old Covina address on it. May be good though. But you need the collar that slides over the shaft end. It holds the magnet inside.
If you have a manual, try cleaning the points/setting gap/setting timing. If the points are cleaned and not pitted you may be able to check that off your list of possible problems.
You need to check as many basics as you can. But good compression is first on the list.

[JayH]

Make sure you don't take your car to the mechanic that you bought the bike from! Those plugs are way too dark.

With the pods attached to the carbs the engine should theoretically be getting all the air it needs. It looks like you might need to get the carb cleaned and see what size mains were put in, air mixture screw adjustments, etc.. Follow the recommendations that were made in the previous email about carb adjustments.

It will be very easy for you to take the carbs off since the air box was removed. Did you ever rule out that the petcock isn't leaking through the vacuum line?

[Mgriz]

I was able to check the coils and compression today... bad news.

Compression Test (1,2,3,4)
1st: 900KPa, 800KPa, 560KPa, 810KPa
2nd: 900KPa, 810KPa, 550KPa, 800KPa

Coils (1-4,2-3)
Primary: 4.4 Ohm, 4 Ohm
Secondary: 22 KOhm, 21 KOhm

So at least the compression is consitent from test to test . Looks like #3 isn't doing so hot. On the bright side it looks like the coils are OK, I'm not to sure about the secondary side, seams a little low for the stock coils compared to what I have been reading it should be. So I guess now I need to figure out why the compression is bad, hope its the valves... At least I got an extra engine when I bought the bike, and the owner said it has good compression... we shall see.

Thanks for all the help, so far.

[jtcrespo]

jtcrespo, I am actually in Decatur, off of Clairemont near the VA. I appreciate the offer, I'll keep that in mind when I get the time to start sorting everything out.

I was just over there today.... Hope you get everything worked out.

[Mgriz]

I was just over there today.... Hope you get everything worked out.

Thanks, It's going to take awhile. I've been pretty overwhelmed w/ work but I finally got a chance to check the compression again. I did the tests cold because when I fired it up it sounded horrible and just did not want to run. These are the results, before and after I squirted oil into the cylinders.

Before: 850, 800, 500, 800 KPa (1,2,3,4)
After: 900, 900, 600, 850 KPa (1,2,3,4)

So I got a 50-100 KPa (approx. 7-14 psi) increase in pressure accross the board. Im hopping this is just because there was very little heat in the engine and not because all the rings are bad. Anyone have insight on this? Thanks.