Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Putting the cylinder block back on, any tips?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Putting the cylinder block back on, any tips?

    What is your favorite method when putting back the cylinder block over the pistons? In this case a '78 GS550 but I think it doesn't matter much which model, well a GS twin model would be easier.

    I am afraid I would break some piston rings trying to get them in basically all at the same time.

    Thanks in advance!!!

    p.s. Pretty precise discriptions are favored, pictures even better!

    #2
    Hi


    I used big zip-ties on the pistons to keep the rings in place.
    just tight enough, so the ties slide down on the pistons .when you lowering the sylinders.


    GS1000+++

    Comment


      #3
      I always put pistons 2 and 3 way up high and have a friend lower the block onto these two while i squeeze the rings with my fingers and use the chamfer to work the rings well into the bore. Once 2 and 3 are into the bore at least an inch, I tie a piece of safety wire to the cam chain and run it up through the block and tie it off. Now have your friend rotate the crank (while keeping the cam chain from binding) while you guide 1 and 4 into the bottom of the cylinder. The weight of the block will now assist you in working the rings for 1 and 4 up into the bores. The chamfers in the bottom of the sleeve really help you get the rings in a lot. Rocking the piston slightly off center and using a piece of wood (clothes pin works) to push in on the low side gives good results also.....BadBillyB

      Comment


        #4
        Yeap that's the way I do it.

        The only problem I have is those teflon buttons like to fall out of the pistons and get under the crank when you start playing around with the rings

        But in your case you should have c-clips and that shouldn't be a problem for you.
        1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
        1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
        1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
        1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
        01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

        Comment


          #5
          I used my Dremel to round off the edge of the chamfer, this way the rings almost slips in by themselves

          Comment


            #6
            It's always helpful to grow another pair of hands and arms. 8O

            Comment


              #7
              How about a big hammer, works great when I get *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ed.
              1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
              1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
              1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
              1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
              01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

              Comment


                #8
                You could use some nice thick grease to hold the buttons in place while slipping the pistons into the block.
                Feel The Pulse!

                1982 GS1100E with Tracy one piece body
                2007 Roadstar Midnight Warrior

                ebay cntgeek

                Comment


                  #9
                  To be perfectly honest I have always found this to be a mongrel of a job. And on a bored-out engine like mine, you have even less of a champfer to play with.

                  Perhaps a set of proper piston-ring clamps would help, but whichever way you go the most important attribute is patience. Failing that, RacingJake's HAMMER could do the trick.

                  Mike.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by tfb
                    To be perfectly honest I have always found this to be a mongrel of a job. And on a bored-out engine like mine, you have even less of a champfer to play with.

                    Perhaps a set of proper piston-ring clamps would help, but whichever way you go the most important attribute is patience. Failing that, RacingJake's HAMMER could do the trick.

                    Mike.
                    A while ago I purchased a set of piston-ring clamps, expensive ones too, only to realise later on that they don't fit between the block and cranckcase. Tried putting the pistons in the block first and then putting in the piston pins and clips but there is not room enough to do it without the pistons slipping out again.(well I couldn't anyway) This is for my EFE engine which is bored out to 1230, luckally my tuner redid the chamfered edges when he bored the block so I will try the tierip method instead.

                    But first that 550 engine, when this is done I'm switching to Singles and Twins for good.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by robinjo
                      ... when this is done I'm switching to Singles and Twins for good.
                      You'll be baaaaack!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by jimcor
                        Originally posted by robinjo
                        ... when this is done I'm switching to Singles and Twins for good.
                        You'll be baaaaack!
                        Just let me mope for a second wil ya!

                        yes you are right

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The last time I had to install a cylinder block over the pistons, I made my own piston-ring clamps from strips of thin sheet aluminium, which was still a struggle but it kind of worked in the end. If I'd thought to put cable-ties around them they would have worked even better. There's always next time!

                          Mike.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by robinjo
                            ... when this is done I'm switching to Singles and Twins for good.
                            In my old race days I not only was into singles, but into Dykes ring pistons as well. A Dykes ring piston takes only one ring at the very top of the piston. The ring is L-shaped with the lower portion of the L facing inwards, and the top of the L level with the top of the piston crown.

                            Those things were easy to install.
                            And now here I am on four cylinders and three rings apiece.

                            Kim

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X