Rear wheel bound up. GS1100GK.

[Redman]

Got the GK home. Had heck of time getting it off trailer. (yes, trailer, 40 degF and raining, snow next 4 days)

Rear wheel bound up. Got on center stand, can hardley turn the rear wheel by hand. I would quess problem to be rear caliper hanging up. Suppose I can pry it loose just as a test to verify that is where the problem is, rather than a problem with drive train (but thats not the typical failure symptom, eh, Steve?)

Any words of wisdom, of how to check this or what else to investigate?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Don't have experience with the shafties but if it's a badly dragging brake it should be easy to tell.
Just push down on the brake pedal normally. If there's almost no travel or typical travel, the brake is already dragging hard.

[Giblet]

Re: Rear wheel bound up. GS1100GK.

Got the GK home. Had heck of time getting it off trailer. (yes, trailer, 40 degF and raining, snow next 4 days)

Rear wheel bound up. Got on center stand, can hardley turn the rear wheel by hand. I would quess problem to be rear caliper hanging up. Suppose I can pry it loose just as a test to verify that is where the problem is, rather than a problem with drive train (but thats not the typical failure symptom, eh, Steve?)

Any words of wisdom, of how to check this or what else to investigate?

Sell it and buy yourself (& me) a new Yamaha FJR1300 .

[KEITH KRAUSE]

By the way. If you're lucky, maybe the brake pedal stopper bolt is adjusted too far and the pedal isn't returning enough to allow the pads to back off?

[Giblet]

OK, I suppose I should try to be helpful . I think you can get to both bolts holding the caliper on without removing the right side bag but it would be much easier with the bag removed. Its only 4 bolts to remove the bag and the two holding the caliper and you'll have your answer in maybe 45 minutes to an hour. Have you tried bleeding the caliper to see if the piston is moving? I'm not sure what to suggest as STOPPING my GK has never been a problem . There is one thing though, I'd definitely grease the freakin fool out of that hub adapter :roll: . My guess is you'll be looking for a gas soaked rag and matches shortly .

PS. Since you are (I assuming here) now a GK owner, forget what Keith said about luck. Your's just ran out.

[Redman]

About bound up rear wheel.

Will take off that access cover so can get at brake pads and push them back just a bit to see if that frees up the rear wheel which I suspect it will (dont suspect problem with drive train). May get to that this weekend, but probably have to work on snowthrower first -grumble-grumble.

So what is the remedy for a hung up caliper? Just exercize it? Or is it likley to have some internal corrosion from not having fluids changed and moisture accumuilated then corrosion?? Once it gets bound up like that is it likley to do it again??

Steve, I have from about 4 thousand to 8 thousand reasons why its not a newer FJ1300 or a Connie. I understand that some people have fairly new bikes just given to them, but apparently that doesnt happen to me.
Yep, I'll take bags off so they can go downstairs whilst the bike is on lifesupport (battery tender) for the winter. ANd probably should inspect the rear drive hub...just to see...

[JayH]

I don't know how much I would pry within the caliper but you might want to try this: get a rubber mallet and whack the side of the caliper a couple times. That usually frees it up enought to move it. Then you can try to unbolt it from the bike.

[JayH]

Re: Rear wheel bound up. GS1100GK.

Got the GK home. Had heck of time getting it off trailer. (yes, trailer, 40 degF and raining, snow next 4 days)

Rear wheel bound up. Got on center stand, can hardley turn the rear wheel by hand. I would quess problem to be rear caliper hanging up. Suppose I can pry it loose just as a test to verify that is where the problem is, rather than a problem with drive train (but thats not the typical failure symptom, eh, Steve?)

Any words of wisdom, of how to check this or what else to investigate?

Sell it and buy yourself (& me) a new Yamaha FJR1300 .

You mean the one w/o the clutch lever?

[Redman]

Yep, it is the brake caliper, not drive train

Yep, it is the brake caliper. I used end of tire iron between the two brake pads, turned the tire iron to push the pads apart (piston back into cyclinder) just a little little bit. Then wheel turns freely. Step on brake and its bound up again. Exercized the caliper-pads-piston back and forth a few times and it still gets bound up.

Hey, I'll try Steves suggestion of breaking open the bleed port to release any hydraulic pressure as a test to see if its the piston that is mechanically stuck or if its the master cyclinder not releasing the hydraulic pressure.

Also noticed that there is about no brake lining on the outside pad and a very little on the inside pad. Might it be that that the piston is beyond its normal travel, and new thicker pads will take care of this problem?

[Giblet]

Re: Rear wheel bound up. GS1100GK.

You mean the one w/o the clutch lever?

Nope. Some things I can still do for myself. I'm just having a pity party for me. I'm gonna take my GK to the farm till we get in the house after Christmas & then I'll buy another new stator and the new bike idea will be out again. WAY TOOO MUCH MONEY any way. As for your wheel issue Dave, the caliper is probably it as the adapter failure definitely doesn't "bind" the wheel. Have you tried to remove the two bolts holding the caliper so you can pull it up off the rotor? My front brakes were binding when I got it and all I had to do to fix it was flush out the old fluid & clean out the sediment in the bypass valve hole. Not sure if there is a similar issue on the back reservoir. How about a picture of your new ride? As for free bikes, I wouldn't trade my GK ride for ten free Intruders. There's just no comparison.

[JayH]

Re: Yep, it is the brake caliper, not drive train

Yep, it is the brake caliper. I used end of tire iron between the two brake pads, turned the tire iron to push the pads apart (piston back into cyclinder) just a little little bit. Then wheel turns freely. Step on brake and its bound up again. Exercized the caliper-pads-piston back and forth a few times and it still gets bound up.

SNIP

Also noticed that there is about no brake lining on the outside pad and a very little on the inside pad. Might it be that that the piston is beyond its normal travel, and new thicker pads will take care of this problem?

If the pads were worn down to the linings the piston is way out of the bore. This does make it harder for the piston to retract back in the caliper. I would pop the piston out of the caliper and make sure it isn't pitted nor junked up.

Do you have a Suzuki dealer near you? If you rebuild the caliper make sure you get new rubber seals, etc.

[JayH]

Re: Rear wheel bound up. GS1100GK.

You mean the one w/o the clutch lever?

Nope. Some things I can still do for myself. I'm just having a pity party for me. I'm gonna take my GK to the farm till we get in the house after Christmas & then I'll buy another new stator and the new bike idea will be out again. WAY TOOO MUCH MONEY any way.

SNIP

As for free bikes, I wouldn't trade my GK ride for ten free Intruders. There's just no comparison.

Sorry to hear about the stator. Did you get your stator from Rick's in NH? These guys have the cheapest prices that I've seen. Once you get that charging system working properly I'm sure you'll feel a lot better about the bike.

I completely agree about the GK vs. 10 Vulcans!

[crc1214]

Rebuild that caliper ASAP!! For some reason, Suzuki's OEM rebuild kits are cheap as hell. I got a piston and the necessary seals to do one of my front calipers for something like 16 bucks from www.crotchrocket.com.

I had to pinch myself. This past winter I was restoring a 81 Honda CB650C, and the piston ALONE for EACH caliper cost me 55 bucks!! And that was with 30% off OEM prices at Service Honda. Bike bandit lists them for a whopping 80 bucks!!! OUCH!

Anyhow, you could probably rebuild that 850G's caliper, new piston and seals for less than 20 bucks in parts.

And don't mess with trying to push this old piston out with hydraulic pressure. It may very well come out eventually, but you will put some MAJOR stress on your brake hoses if you do. Just take it off as is, and use about 120psi of air to blow that sucker out onto a thick peice of foam or a thick pile of towels on your garage floor. Wear ear plugs if at all possible, and warn anybody in the house before you do so. It will sound like a gun going off. Don't have an air tank? Pretty much any shop will do this for you for a very nominal fee.

Good luck.

[focus frenzy]

Re: About bound up rear wheel.

May get to that this weekend, but probably have to work on snowthrower first -grumble-grumble.

I would like to point out that it is 80*f here today!!!

[sv650]

Have a look at this site:

http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rbrakes.html

SV