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Murphys Law Strikes Again
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Anonymous
Murphys Law Strikes Again
Yesterday when i took the drain plug out of the oil pan on the gs1100 it had traces of metal in the threads-It seems that i cross threaded it when i last changed the oil. It will no longer tighten when i put the oil plug back into the oil pan. I am planning to remove the oil pan and have a helicoil installed. I realize that im the only person on the website who makes mistakes but i was wondering if any one had some hear say advice to give me. Perhaps a self tapping drain plug if they are available in metric etc.???Tags: None
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Originally posted by lenfoI DID THE SAME THING ON MY 850,TRY TAKE A RUBBER WASHER
ON THEN TIGHTEN UP. IT WORKED FOR ME .
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Forum LongTimerCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
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- The only Henniker on earth
Ever see those temporary oil drain plugs? They are rubber and can be bought at most auto parts stores. I rode with one for three years without any problem until I finally helicoiled the pan.Currently bikeless
'81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
'06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."
I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.
"Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt
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Anonymous
On my 850 i stuffed the hole with 2-compo steel stuff. After it had dried out i drilled a new hole in it and made new thread in it (smaller size than original) with a normal bolt size which you can buy everywhere. It works perfect.
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Anonymous
Originally posted by JethroEver see those temporary oil drain plugs? They are rubber and can be bought at most auto parts stores. I rode with one for three years without any problem until I finally helicoiled the pan.
Thanks all for the help--now back to the idiot lights coming on
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Anonymous
THE BIKE IS UP AND RUNNING WITH THE RUBBER OIL DRAIN PLUG BUT IT SEEPS AND DRIPS SLIGHTLY--i AM GLAD TO BE ABLE TO USE IT AND IT WILL GET IT TO MY MECHANIC FOR THR HELICOIL NEXT WEEK IF MURPHY((THAT IRISH #$%^%$#)) DOESN'T STRIKE AGAIN. i BOUGHT IT AT DISCOUNT AUTO PARTS FOR 3.99 AND IT HAS A WING NIT AT THE BOTTOM WHICH CAUSES IT TO EXPAND. MANY MANY MOONS AGO, I REMEMBER A RUBBER PLUG THAT WAS INSTALLED WITH A SPECIAL TO TO STRETCH IT. BUT I DIDNT SEE ANY OF THEM.
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Originally posted by slopokeTHE BIKE IS UP AND RUNNING WITH THE RUBBER OIL DRAIN PLUG BUT IT SEEPS AND DRIPS SLIGHTLY--i AM GLAD TO BE ABLE TO USE IT AND IT WILL GET IT TO MY MECHANIC FOR THR HELICOIL NEXT WEEK IF MURPHY((THAT IRISH #$%^%$#)) DOESN'T STRIKE AGAIN. i BOUGHT IT AT DISCOUNT AUTO PARTS FOR 3.99 AND IT HAS A WING NIT AT THE BOTTOM WHICH CAUSES IT TO EXPAND. MANY MANY MOONS AGO, I REMEMBER A RUBBER PLUG THAT WAS INSTALLED WITH A SPECIAL TO TO STRETCH IT. BUT I DIDNT SEE ANY OF THEM.Kevin
E-Bay: gsmcyclenut
"Communism doesn't work because people like to own stuff." Frank Zappa
1978 GS750(x2 "projects"), 1983 GS1100ED (slowly becoming a parts bike), 1982 GS1100EZ,
Now joined the 21st century, 2013 Yamaha XTZ1200 Super Tenere.
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Anonymous
Slopoke;
I'm glad you have your drain plug problem resolved...Ererr :roll: ..somewhat
Hey...at least you're ridin.
QUESTION...what's a " I'm gonna get a helicoil installed" ?????
How does a helicoil solve the problem ??
Thanks for some enlightenment
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Anonymous
A helicoil is a bushing with thread on the in- and outside. The idea is to drill the excisting hole (where you ruined the thread) to a larger-size (outer-dia of the helicoil), tap new trhead (corresponding with the helicoil), screw in the helicoil and voila, you have new threads for the oilplug.
Its a great way to renovate your threads, but its a lotta work and requires special tooling, especially when you have to do it upside-down with oil dripping in your eyes.
Now you know whay scotty's specs are BLACK !
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Anonymous
Originally posted by ArnoldA helicoil is a bushing with thread on the in- and outside. The idea is to drill the excisting hole (where you ruined the thread) to a larger-size (outer-dia of the helicoil), tap new trhead (corresponding with the helicoil), screw in the helicoil and voila, you have new threads for the oilplug.
Its a great way to renovate your threads, but its a lotta work and requires special tooling, especially when you have to do it upside-down with oil dripping in your eyes.
Now you know whay scotty's specs are BLACK !
ANY TIPS ON REMOVING THE OIL SUMP :? :? YES YES REMOVE THE BOLTS FIRST :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
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Anonymous
Thanks Arnold for the enlightenment.
Ya learn somethin every day.
Now...as far as Scotty's glasses go...maybe he could fashion small wipers to remove the oil.
Scotty, did you try tapping the pan with a mallet to shake it loose??
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Anonymous
Originally posted by SebbyThanks Arnold for the enlightenment.
Ya learn somethin every day.
Now...as far as Scotty's glasses go...maybe he could fashion small wipers to remove the oil.
Scotty, did you try tapping the pan with a mallet to shake it loose??
The oil pan is off--first i used a rubber hammer--then a piece of wood and a regular hammer--then tried a knife--after that a wood tool that was flat and thin--finally my son found a large flat surface behind the kick stand switch and used the wood and hammer to knock it loose. next i bring it to the shop
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Anonymous
Good deal, Slowpoke! Sledgehammers Forever
Although I want to do most jobs myself, I've have had some that I wished I had left it for the shop. I tend to draw the line when special tooling is required (another reason never to buy a Kawasaki). Also, I gave up on synchronising carbs: the shop does it in half an hour while it takes me forever to have them the way I want them. The shop is not as picky as I am and get them synch-ed good enough.
I think this would be a good moment to thank all posters for their contributions to this GREAT forum! The round of Dutch Brew is on me!
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Anonymous
Originally posted by ArnoldGood deal, Slowpoke! Sledgehammers Forever
Although I want to do most jobs myself, I've have had some that I wished I had left it for the shop. I tend to draw the line when special tooling is required (another reason never to buy a Kawasaki). Also, I gave up on synchronising carbs: the shop does it in half an hour while it takes me forever to have them the way I want them. The shop is not as picky as I am and get them synch-ed good enough.
I think this would be a good moment to thank all posters for their contributions to this GREAT forum! The round of Dutch Brew is on me!
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