Murphys Law Strikes Again

[Anonymous]

Scotty;
Glad you got the pan off.
I was goin to suggest a nail-tip full of C-4 if the hammer didn't work.

Good luck on the helicoil.

[Anonymous]

Scotty;
Glad you got the pan off.
I was goin to suggest a nail-tip full of C-4 if the hammer didn't work.

Good luck on the helicoil.

The Helicoil is in now and because of the design of the drain gole the helicoil will not allow the sump to drain completely--well im still putting it together friday when the gasket comes in- i will be sure torun the engine first and also to chage the filter each time(i already do that). Next octobet i will drop the pan again and see if anything had accumilated. This si the first time the pan has been off since the bike was new and i only found a little sludge built up near the channels that are built into the pans casting.

[Anonymous]

Scotty,
What about drilling a horizontal hole thru the heli wall.
See how far into the pan the heli sits and, on the inside of the pan close to the bottom of the pan, drill a hole thru the heli.
This might help with draining.

Is it possible to do ??

[Pillage]

I would have answered sooner but the website has been so slow that i gave up about 6 times today.
The oil pan is off--first i used a rubber hammer--then a piece of wood and a regular hammer--then tried a knife--after that a wood tool that was flat and thin--finally my son found a large flat surface behind the kick stand switch and used the wood and hammer to knock it loose. next i bring it to the shop

I bought my GS complete with a rubber oil plug gizmo and plan on fixing it the same way you did. I'm curious were you able to remove the oil pan without removing the (stock?) exhaust system?

[Anonymous]

Scotty,
What about drilling a horizontal hole thru the heli wall.
See how far into the pan the heli sits and, on the inside of the pan close to the bottom of the pan, drill a hole thru the heli.
This might help with draining.

Is it possible to do ??

I was afraid to drill the helicoil because it looke like the coil would not have enough grip surface to remain stationary if i altered its structure. It however woul seem to be the obvious solution. I will live with it because i change oil often and filter each time also.
Any other thoughts ??

[Anonymous]

I would have answered sooner but the website has been so slow that i gave up about 6 times today.
The oil pan is off--first i used a rubber hammer--then a piece of wood and a regular hammer--then tried a knife--after that a wood tool that was flat and thin--finally my son found a large flat surface behind the kick stand switch and used the wood and hammer to knock it loose. next i bring it to the shop

I bought my GS complete with a rubber oil plug gizmo and plan on fixing it the same way you did. I'm curious were you able to remove the oil pan without removing the (stock?) exhaust system?

Haven't had a stock exhaust since i had the bike. The Star exhaust system has so much clearance that is isnt any problem. the oil filter is in the clear also.
I just peeked at another post of yours and with this system, the centerstand would be allowed to stay on. It is the same as the V&H system with the pipes that look like a bowl of spagetti.
This is the best photo I have at the moment.

http://www.geocities.com/slowpoke59ds/MyNewMainPage.html

[Anonymous]

Altering Helicoils

I don't think you can drill into the side of a Helicoil. They are actually wound wire springs. If you try, you will probably just bend the exposed portion of the spring. If you do that, you may loosen it, or make it tight around the end of the drain plug. This could make it come out when the drain plug is removed.

The shortest helicoil I've seen was 1 times the diameter. This is probably still longer than the oil pan is thick, so I think you are stuck with what you have.

Now, if it is a Keensert, which is a threaded metal sleeve, that could be machined.

My 79 GS750L has a self tapping over sized drain plug, and it is awful. Because of the long lead in on the bolt, it is very hard to get started, and really wants to cut new threads each time. I have to be VERY careful and tighten it all the way in by hand before I snug it up with a wrench. I've been meaning to drop the pan and install a helicoil, but haven't gotten around to it yet. Based on your experience, Slopoke, I may look for a different option.

[Anonymous]

Now, if it is a Keensert, which is a threaded metal sleeve, that could be machined.

That item seems to be the proper fix because you could probably drill into the side to get comlete drainage.

[daveo]

or take the pan to someone who heli-arcs, weld up the drain hole and drill and tap it

[Anonymous]

or take the pan to someone who heli-arcs, weld up the drain hole and drill and tap it

no doubt--$$$$$$