Clutch break-in needed?

[renobruce]

While restoring the 78 GS1000, I put a Moto-Technica clutch plates/spring kit in it. Springs were much stronger than the stock ones. Now with the bike on the center stand and running in 1st gear, I can't stop the wheel with my foot when I pull in the clutch. Still spins strong, and If I try hard to stop the wheel the RPM's drop. Are those springs just too much? Should I maybe leave the new plates in and go back to the stock springs? Or is there a "break-in" period? BTW, I didn't really need the new clutch plates/springs. I bought them because they were new and a good deal. I still have all the original stuff.

[Hoomgar]

I'd see how it is when you ride it. If it isn't trying to walk away from you at stop lights then leave it. Are you sure it is adjusted 100% right?

[JayH]

Did you put a new or used kit in the bike? Stronger springs shouldn't keep the clutch from completely disengaging.

Did it "clunk" loudly when you put it into 1st gear while on the centerstand?

[renobruce]

Are you sure it is adjusted 100% right?

I think so. There is no excess slack in the cable. It pulls the lever way in. Should there be some tension on the arm when the clutch is out?

[renobruce]

Did you put a new or used kit in the bike? Stronger springs shouldn't keep the clutch from completely disengaging.

Did it "clunk" loudly when you put it into 1st gear while on the centerstand?

It is a new kit. Moto-Technica, made in Japan. Yes it clunks when you put it in gear, and bog the engine down when you try and stop the rear tire from spinning (with the clutch pulled in).

[JayH]

Did you take the clutch arm off of the shaft on the clutch cover? The clutch arm bolts onto the shaft coming out of the clutch cover. It is also the end of the clutch cable in it.

[DaveDanger]

renobruce, I'd think that the new springs ought not cause any difference to the engagement of the clutch, all other things being equal. If anything, the springs should give you some additional resistance at the lever, but the only thing that will tend to "drag" is if the clutch plates are thicker than the previous ones. If that is true, then you will have to tension the clutch cable more tightly. Obviously, at some point you'll run out of cable adjustment, which will cause the clutch to slip, even when it's fully engaged. It's kind of a fine line you have to walk to get everything adjusted to where it disengages fully when the lever is pulled, to full engagement when the lever is released.

The increased tension of the new springs should ultimately provide more grip between the drive plates and driven plates when the lever is released, nothing else should change.

[Buffalo Breath]

fix

if the cable slack is taken up and the lever on the cover is just forward of the cover parting seem, and it still drags take it back apart pull the stack and measure the height of the new pack verses the old pack, if the new one is 3/16ths or more thicker then you have a problem with the new pack, this is accounting for wear in the old pack, also check your reassembly, if you had no problem with slipping before then I would put the stock springs back in, remember the more effort you need to pull the clutch in the harder it is on cables and release parts