Smoking from cold

[duaneage]

Yes setting the clearances is a ball ache but on the positive side your looking at an indestructable system. The adjust won't move no matter how hard you beat on it.

Look in the manual for the procedure to measure the gaps. If you need shims sometimes you can move a shim from a wide location to a narrow one. Shim sets from motors are on eBay for 20 dollars now and then. Individual shims are 7-10 dollars at the dealer and that sucks. Some deales will let you excjange a shim, but not the 2.65 shims because they usually have dozens of them.

Get it together and install the cams before installing on the engine. Measure what you have and then worry about shims if you need them. You could also try the Parts Wanted section and offer to wash someone's bike if they give you the shim you need.

[turkish]

glad you found your shims gary

so know about valve guides

what do you think about my comp stats

dry No 1 8kg. No2 8kg. No3 7.5kg. No4 7.5kg
wet No1 8kg. No2 9kg. No3 8kg. No4 8kg

do i even need to take barrel of

vic

[duaneage]

If you have compression that even and high I would leave it alone. Wait for a real problem to come along before opening her up. You'll be waking a sleeping dog and end up breaking something or spending a lot of money for little greater benefit by tearing it apart.

[flyingace]

OMG! It must take forever to adjust a valve that way.

You need to get a valve adjusting tool (some try to make their own). The tool allows you to push the shim bucket down far enough to get the shim out with a tweezers. I bought mine at a local Suzuki dealer. Motion Pro is the manufacturer. I tried making my own - buy the tool.

[duaneage]

OMG! It must take forever to adjust a valve that way.



No, actually it took me about 30 minutes.

Once I identified what i had and what I needed I buttoned her back up and road for a week while I gathered my shims.

Record what the tolerances are and the shim number on ech valve. This is helpful info to have after 15000 miles and you check them again.

[flyingace]

Duaneage,
I was referring to an earlier post by someone else. They removed/replaced the camshaft for every valve - at least that's how I read it.

[duaneage]

Oh god, that would take forever is right. it would also add a lot of inaccuracies.

[DimitriT]

if you referring to valve shim clearances you need the tappet drepressor tool. this allows you to swap shims without removing the cams

[turkish]

so duaneage
you say leave alone because compresion ok (leave barrels on)

so do you not think its a good or not to take head off and try and sort out valve guides/stem seals.because it will keep on smoking if i don't do any thing
and i hate it smoking and guys (with there xjrs ,triumph triples ) says well it is 24 yrs old and at least she's still going. aaarrgggggg

o i wish money was no problem a

vic

[duaneage]

Your compression looks good, the rings are probably fine and the valves are probably OK as well.

If the smoke gets in your eyes remove the head and change the valve guide seals. They are pretty easy to do with the right spring compressor, look around for one that can get down between the buckets and compress the spring. I would wait untill you the head is off before getting a tool to be sure it will work properly.

You can test the valves with the head off the engine this way:

Put the head on a bench upside down with the cams REMOVED so all valves are closed.

Use a level to make sure the head is level on the bench. I shim a head with wood blocks and clamp it to keep it still.

Pour kerosene or diesel onto each combustion chamber and wait a few minutes. If no fuel leaks past ( or at least not a lot) then the valves are good to go and no attention is warranted.

[bwringer]

You use a tappet depressor tool to press the buckets down and then pop out the shim. No need to remove the camshafts.

Many KZ Kawasakis used shim UNDER bucket valves, requiring camshaft removal, but GS models use shim OVER bucket valves -- the cam lobe bears directly against the shim when the camshaft rotates.

Some later 16 valve gs models used screw and locknut adjusters -- no shims involved.

The valve adjustment procedure is very clearly documented in both the Haynes and Clymer manuals, so you really ought to get one.

If you're in the US, the tappet depressor tool can be found here:

http://crc2onlinecatalog.com

The tools are on this page (scroll down to the shim tools):

http://crc2onlinecatalog.com/tools.htm

CRC2 also has the shims for $5 each.

[gray3287]

Hi folks
me again have just re assembled the head and amazingly all of the valve clearences were well within tolerance even with a slight lapping with fine paste so i was well pleased, but my next question is this, as i had to remove the carbs i thought i would give them the once over so i drained and removed the float bowls (removed a generous dollop of dog muck from the bowls)but noticed next to the main jet another jet which had a sort of rubber bung stuffed into it all but one were fine the last one had perished and now doesnt exist as it has fell to pieces,What is it for and can i get a replacement/alternative
cheers all
Graham

[gray3287]

sorry folks forgot to tell you they are mikuni carbs with the flat tops

[dgeorge]

Hi Graham,
I think I might have some in my box of carb parts let me look when I get home from work. If I do I will mail them to you, just pm me with your address.
Daniel

[gray3287]

Thanks Pal
you have restored my faith in human nature
yours
Graham
ps email me at graham_haslam@btconnect.com
and i will return with my address
cheers matey