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82 gs 450 tx removing rear wheel help

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    82 gs 450 tx removing rear wheel help

    Hi

    I am stuck on a project I never did before.


    goal : remove rear wheel to get at sprocket {rear} I want to replace with

    new one will also do in time front sprocket and chain..


    stuck :

    I am removing rear wheel by unscrewing bolt I keep turning and turning but I do not know when the wheel will let go off frame . I did not remove left side muffler to much of a pain since that screw is so old ... what can i do???


    I unscewed brake line ..screw ajusters dam thing is still <1/4 inch off any suggestions


    mike

    #2
    Likely if you have the stock exhaust you'll have to do one of two things:

    Drop the rear end by removing the shocks (from the top bolts only)
    or
    remove the exhaust.


    (edit)
    I just noticed you took one pipe off. I can't say of the top of my head which side has the nut and which has the bolt-end (not 100% sure it matters either - someone know that?, I'd like to know too).

    One end is round on the bolt, the other has the thread.
    You might need stick something in the hole of the bolt to hold it still while you remove the big nut. Clymers says put it on finger tight, but goo and gunk may make it a little tougher to get off.

    Comment


      #3
      On my 450L, the nut is on the right, and you are correct, just make sure the bolt itself is not turning. I assume you removed the cotter pin?

      Comment


        #4
        82 txz REAR wheel

        Hi

        The bolt on the rear tire is on the right side . I removed it of course. I am still turning and turning axle bolt towards end of left side exhaust. seem it stop to advase any further

        what would removing the top bolts on my air shock help me?

        Comment


          #5
          Are you saying that you removed the axle nut from the right side? If so, you have to remove the left muffler and pull the axle out. There shouldn't be anything holding it in.

          Comment


            #6
            xpresedentix, If you'll remove the upper attach bolt/nut at the top of each shock, then slide the end of the shock off the bolt/stud (whatever holds it there).. that will allow the rear swingarm to drop down several inches (assuming your bike is on its centerstand). This should give you clearance to pull the axle bolt out of the rear wheel assy without necessarily having to remove an exhaust pipe. Typically a rear axle bolt is a round headed affair with a hole thru it approx 1/4" dia. Slip a phillips screwdriver shank thru that hole and begin to pull the bolt out of the rear end while rotating it back and forth. Pay attention to the exact layout of spacers and bushings as you disassemble the rear end, they all need to go back exactly the same. The best way to handle the brakes is to unbolt the caliper from its pivot arm and swingarm attach point and slide it up and off the disk without disconnecting the brake line. That way you're not required to bled air from the brake system after you're done.

            Comment


              #7
              I think he has drum on the rear, so there's no caliper issue. That bolt will just slide out. If you are turning it, it's not going to go anywhere because it's only threaded on the end you took the nut off. To get it started coming out, you may need to put the nut back on the end a few threads and tap with a rubber mallet.

              Comment


                #8
                I'm a stoopie ole man, so I didn't even consider the type caliper he might have. I simply close my eyes and remember what my stuff looks like when I start describing things here.

                As to turning the axle, I wasn't clear... I didn't mean to turn it as in unscrewing it. Typically, there are threads only at the nut end as you mentioned. Once that nut is off, the axle should pull out from the opposite end. It is usually too tightly stuck to simply slide out.

                The idea that I unsuccessfully described was to slip a screwdriver shank thru that hole in the head, and to pull while turning the bolt back and forth a quarter turn or so in each direction. Not to unscrew it, but to simply break the friction grip on the axle shank.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Agree with the screwdriver approach to make sure no damage is caused to the axle. Just make sure you don't do anything to damage those threads!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    also, if you can't seem to pull it out, (they can sometimes be real stubborn) I use a long socket extension and a mallet to gently pound the axle through, keep in mind that you may also need to support the rear wheel with you foot or knee to keep the hub in line while you pull out the axle. Make sure to grease the axle well before you put it back in, and next time things will go much easier.
                    Good luck,
                    Andy

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